75kg towball weight

[annierich]

We are considering buying a car with a maximum 75 kg towball weight. Our Lunar Clubman has proved difficult to get under 85/90kgs without putting lots of weight behind the caravan axle. Does anybody have any suggestions as to whether or not this is achievable please? Our current car has a 95kg towball weight so there's quite a difference in weights.
Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[Sproket]

Out of curiosity how are you measuring your towball weight ?

 

[annierich]

With a measured stick under the tow hitch and a set of scales.

 

[Sproket]

What type / size of gas bottle do you use and how many do you carry ?

 

[annierich]

Calor Lite -1 in summer and 2 in winter. Thanks for your replies so far.

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

Where do you carry the spare wheel?

 

[Dustydog]

http://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/81305-lunar-nose-weight/
Annie.
The above will interest you.
What Clubman model do you have?

 

[annierich]

Woodlands Camper we carry the spare wheel underneath the caravan in its holder.

 

[annierich]

Dustydog thanks for the link -I'll pass it to him indoors to read!

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi Annie,
while it may seem the answers you received were in the form of a question without a recommendation or specific answer may seem odd but in reality nose weight is one of the subjects that come up time and again.
and to be honest there is no single answer that will solve all the problems.
the fact of the matter is nose weight criteria is different depending on what the outfit dictates, in the end it comes down to loading, but the start point can be very different.
where basic equipment is on the van will dictate the start point like position of cooker heater gas bottles battery and spare wheel, what we put in the van also alters the nose weight, it is suprising how much difference moving things around make start with all the stuff in the front locker most of us just chuck loads of stuff in there it all adds to the nose weight a EHU 25mtr cable is about 8/10kg so moving it from the front box to the rear floor of the van changes the balance on the axle [assuming it is a single axle] by 16/20kg a awning and poles carried on the floor over the axles moved backwards by a foot or so will lose another 10kg, or even filling the toilet rinse tank with fluid makes a difference if it is at the rear of the van.
it is really just a case of loading the van differently from the way you used to do it to get the weight down for the new car just keep all heavy items on the floor as near to the axles as possible and shifting things around to get it right.
note, I had a van with a dry[empty] nose weight of 105kg that had to be got down 50kg [the max for the car] fully loaded so it is possible.

btw, could I suggest you try a different method of testing other than using a stick, it could be quite nasty if the stick flies up, try using the caravan step as a stable platform with the scales on top and wood blocks to make up the difference, get the van level and zero the scales before winding the jockey wheel up and check the weight this way.
it is more accurate and less chance of taking a injury away with you on holiday, ps, [got that T shirt as well]

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Annie & Colin,

Colin's answer contains wealth of good information, with the one bit where I not sure he explained it very well.

I totally agree with using the caravan step to support the scales and the wooden blocks (provided you do zero the scale with the blocks in place,)

But it's the next bit about getting the caravan level and measuring it.

Without going into too much detail about why (unless you want me to) but the actual nose weight caravan produces will change if you change the height of the hitch. If on a single axle caravan you have the hitch too high it will produce less nose load, and if it's too low the nose load will be greater. A similar thing happens with Twin Axle caravans but the specific effects are more dramatic and thus even more critical

The EU regulations about measuring static vertical nose load, require the hitch to be at the same height as when it is coupled to the tow vehicle and ready to tow. Dont forget that the cars height will change as it is loaded with passengers and luggage, so its important both car and caravan are in their towing configuration.

Now when you are trying to establish a nose load that is going to be very close to limit for the tow hitch, you need to be sure you are measuring it properly, because if you are measure it incorrectly you may think you are within your limits you could easily be overloaded. The hitch nose load limit specified by the manufacturer is a limit and has no margin allowed for overloading.

So although it's long winded, you should couple the loaded caravan to loaded car, and measure the height of the hitch. Then uncouple the caravan and proceed to measure the nose load ensuring the hitch height matches the measurement you took. I have a selection of old magazines to make fine adjustments to height the scales.

This should all be done on level, horizontal ground as inclines will affect the results.

Sadly though several manufactures of nose weight gauges would have you believe their products are accurate, unless they allow you to adjust for tow hitch height, they are incapable of giving an accurate result.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

Hello Annie & Colin,

Colin's answer contains wealth of good information, with the one bit where I not sure he explained it very well.

I totally agree with using the caravan step to support the scales and the wooden blocks (provided you do zero the scale with the blocks in place,)

But it's the next bit about getting the caravan level and measuring it.

hello John,
I did not go into the finer points of nose weight checking as the OP is not a newbie but a seasoned caravanner and probably well aware of how to do it, seeing as how they do it already all be it in a dodgy way, I would not presume so much [like telling a plumber how to solder] :lol: :lol: .
instead I just suggested a safer way to do it, [I still have the scars from that method] the reference to being "level" was just common sense as using steps on the same level ground as the van is stood on, is a better option. and nothing to do with actually measuring the thing.
perhaps I could have put it better, if the question had been about how to measure it. "it wasn't".

 

[Gafferbill]

.......my advice to the OP would be even simpler!

Given the caravan they currently have ......then I would rule out potential tow cars with a 75kgs maximum tow bar load.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

.......my advice to the OP would be even simpler!

Given the caravan they currently have ......then I would rule out potential tow cars with a 75kgs maximum tow bar load.

why Bill. it is only a question of loading 20kg difference [10 off the front added to the rear] or 5 bags of sugar :S
I will bet if the OP empties the van, [including the front box} ignores how they used to load it, and then reload systematically paying attention to weight distribution they could get any required nose weight.
just takes more effort, :lol: :lol: :lol: .

 

[Gafferbill]

........you are of course exactly right Colin

I just thought I would give an alternative view which is actually the course I personally would take in the OP's situation of looking at new tow cars.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Colin,

I understand where you are coming from, it was just the specific reference to
"get the van level and zero the scales before winding the jockey wheel" which the OP might have taken to mean having the caravan level, rather than on level ground, the consequence could be significant in op's case because they are working with a nose load very close to the vehicle's limits.

If the OP had taken you advise as given and set up the nose load at 75kg with the caravan level, and then hitched it to the car, as you know most caravans do tow in a slightly nose down configurations, and the drop in hitch height could easily make a 5kg difference to the nose load. 80kg on a 75kg nose load limit is overloaded in the eyes of the law.