ALDE 3020 COACHMAN 560 VIP ALDE WET SYSTEM HEATING FAILURE.

[Slowtow]

Hi all, as title. Maybe someone can shed some light on this; the heating is failing to come on. Hot water is fine, plenty of water in the 50L Hog and Glycol level around 10mm higher than the 'min' mark as per instruction in the Alde manual. When I set the temperature for the heating to come on I can see the circulation ring on the Alde LCD.
By the way we have had the 'van for three years and the heating has been fine and came on without fail.
But noticeably something is preventing the pump in the waldrobe from running.
I have checked the 12v connector and is plugged in and looks good. (I haven't used my meter to confirm 12v yet). I have checked the LCD error log and it does not show any fault codes between 1-20? This is not a major issue as we have a back up letter box heater and hot water is running fine.
Just to note; I haven't ever changed the Glycol mixture (just always kept an eye on the level) and I haven't bled the system either but if there was air in the system then I know the pump would still run and there'd be gurgling sounds coming from the expansion tank. Any pointers please?
If these things didn't happen I wouldn't learn anything lol!!
Many thanks for reading. ST.

 

[JTQ]

First thing IMO to move forward is to check the pump is receiving 12 volts when it should be on.

 

[Buckman]

I would go into "Settings" and then select "reset" before doing anything else as that cures a number of issues.

 

[Slowtow]

First thing IMO to move forward is to check the pump is receiving 12 volts when it should be on.

Yes will do.
Btw the 5a 12v Boiler fuse is good. Thanks.

 

[Slowtow]

I would go into "Settings" and then select "reset" before doing anything else as that cures a number of issues.

Thanks, yes I have considered that but rather not 'risk it for a biscuit'. I'm certain its a pump issue and may be just stuck in position or something daft like that.

 

[Buckman]

Thanks, yes I have considered that but rather not 'risk it for a biscuit'. I'm certain its a pump issue and may be just stuck in position or something daft like that.

There is no risk using the reset as all it does is restore the system to the default factory settings. You may need to set up the time and temperature afterwards.

What i have come across is people using the 3kw instead of 2kw. If using the 3kw, chance of heating is probably zero as at 3kw it draws over 12amp leaving vey little for anything else to operate. System shuts down if you exceed the set amp in the system i.e. if you have set the load monitor to a maximum load to 10amp, no heating. Check that first in case it is set too low.

 

[JTQ]

We have been told there is hot water, therefore unless that is residual heat from an early time the system has not shut down.

 

[Buckman]

We have been told there is hot water, therefore unless that is residual heat from an early time the system has not shut down.

What happens if you exceed the load limit is that the hot water heats up and then shuts down, heats up and shuts down etc. as it is controlled by the load monitor. Only offering a suggestion based on our experiences and is worth checking as it seems to be a man made issue.

 

[JTQ]

The pump will run if instructed to do so, whether the fluid is hot or otherwise.
As the pump is not running then the logical diagnostic approach is to check if it is receiving power to do so, when it should.

"Resetting" is just blindly trying things, as opposed to logically diagnosing the cause. Here as the fluid is hot, we know heating or not heating the fluid is not the fundamental cause.

 

[GUMPY]

I would take the pump out of the tank and check it spins by hand and hasn't seized.
Also as said earlier check 12v to the pump.

 

[JTQ]

The 3020 ought to have the boiler area located inline pump, not the alignment critical so can be troublesome header pump.

I believe from what I read this is a brushless motor unit so has its integrate electronics, so its issues could lay there or mechanically. If its not powered then quite simply its not going to run, pointing a need to look to why its not being powered.

 

[GUMPY]

The 3020 ought to have the boiler area located inline pump, not the alignment critical so can be troublesome header pump

Mines a 3020 and has the tank pump😟
Hence my comment

 

[JTQ]

I stand correct there, thanks.

 

[Martin_E]

The 3020 ought to have the boiler area located inline pump, not the alignment critical so can be troublesome header pump.

I believe from what I read this is a brushless motor unit so has its integrate electronics, so its issues could lay there or mechanically. If its not powered then quite simply its not going to run, pointing a need to look to why its not being powered.

OP says pump in header tank

 

[Buckman]

The pump will run if instructed to do so, whether the fluid is hot or otherwise.
As the pump is not running then the logical diagnostic approach is to check if it is receiving power to do so, when it should.

"Resetting" is just blindly trying things, as opposed to logically diagnosing the cause. Here as the fluid is hot, we know heating or not heating the fluid is not the fundamental cause.

Who said fluid was the cause? The system worked okay the last time they used the caravan and it is NOT a big deal to use the reset which is what ALDE would normally advise anyway. However it is up to the OP to decide on a course of action and I was suggesting the simplest way and no need for an involved diagnostic approach.

 

[Jcloughie]

Just because the display says the pump is running, does not mean it actually is. Just unscrew and lift the pump. If running it will be obvious. If not, check for voltage.

If pump is Broken, either replace, or get an upgrade kit to an inline pump. And then the glycol can be replaced at the same time.

John

 

[Slowtow]

There is no risk using the reset as all it does is restore the system to the default factory settings. You may need to set up the time and temperature afterwards.

What i have come across is people using the 3kw instead of 2kw. If using the 3kw, chance of heating is probably zero as at 3kw it draws over 12amp leaving vey little for anything else to operate. System shuts down if you exceed the set amp in the system i.e. if you have set the load monitor to a maximum load to 10amp, no heating. Check that first in case it is set too low.

I've left the Alde panel set at 1kw as always felt more than ample and the heating has always worked faultlessly before.

 

[Buckman]

I've left the Alde panel set at 1kw as always felt more than ample and the heating has always worked faultlessly before.

You will not get heating at 1kw as it needs to be on 2kw at least. 1Kw is only about 4amp and if I recall correctly the fridge etc will be using most of that.

 

[JTQ]

OP says pump in header tank

I can't find that the OP had specifically said it was in the header tank.

There could be an assumption or even knowledge for those who have the advantage of knowing the spec of the van, from it was "in the wardrobe".
Ours also is in the wardrobe, but it's not in the header, it's on the boiler.

 

[Buckman]

As a matter of interest, in later model caravans, the ALDE pump was not located in the wardrobe, but under the front bunk. However OP has stated that their pump is in the wardrobe.

 

[Martin_E]

@JTQ

“But noticeably something is preventing the pump in the waldrobe from running.”

Ah you are correct 🤔

Generally it’s Adria that that tend to put the boiler in the wardrobe, and the OP hasn’t said what van he/she/they have. This might of helped, it was assumption on my part, as that is generally where the header tank is on most vans 👍

 

[Woodentop]

Our last van (Unicorn 4 Seville - 2 berth) had Alde 3020E and I could tell if the pump was running (especially in the silence of the night) because it emits a slight 'whistle' and it is at the back of the boiler (under O/S bed) almost on the floor.

 

[ProfJohnL]

You will not get heating at 1kw as it needs to be on 2kw at least. 1Kw is only about 4amp and if I recall correctly the fridge etc will be using most of that.

The fridge will only consume about 0.5A (120W) or less.