Hi Colin, changed the van plug last night so just one more question on the car socket, you say make sure there are 3 earths pins so assume its pins 3,11,13 if these are not connected to the body what size cable should I use.colin-yorkshire said:
Believe they come in thicknessess as strands ie; 9 strands 18, 28 and so on
Many thanks fo any help.
Ps wont tell you when I wired the plug that I fed the two cables in the scew end and gromits, wired it up and forgot the central body bit so had to take it all apart put the centre piece in and then rewire it
hi Kev,
you are correct pins 3-11-13 are the earthwires 3 is from the road lights or earth for pins 1 to 8, 11 is the earth return from pin 10 (fridge) and 13 is the earth from pin 9 (charge circuit) the correct wire should be capable of carrying 21.5 amps so 2.5mm 36 strands.is fine.
if the wires are not to this spec change them, as this could have contributed to the grey plug burning out!! Use white if you can get it (correct colour code) or add some white tape as it comes out of the socket, "signifying earth lead" and if you can get to it clean the earth point on the body.
ps, are you using a double entry socket and the original wires or going to 13 pin wire (if so the colour code is different) same pin configuration but different colours.
you are correct pins 3-11-13 are the earthwires 3 is from the road lights or earth for pins 1 to 8, 11 is the earth return from pin 10 (fridge) and 13 is the earth from pin 9 (charge circuit) the correct wire should be capable of carrying 21.5 amps so 2.5mm 36 strands.is fine.
if the wires are not to this spec change them, as this could have contributed to the grey plug burning out!! Use white if you can get it (correct colour code) or add some white tape as it comes out of the socket, "signifying earth lead" and if you can get to it clean the earth point on the body.
ps, are you using a double entry socket and the original wires or going to 13 pin wire (if so the colour code is different) same pin configuration but different colours.
Colin, using the existing two wires into new socket so will wire the same as the guide and as per the socket already done.
And thanks for the info on the earth wire.
Cheers
Kev
And thanks for the info on the earth wire.
Cheers
Kev
As well as using the two pins in the 12S plug why not link the earths from both the 12s and the 12N somewhere at the van end on the coupling?
hi Clive, not sure exactly what you mean, or the need to do it!! what Kev has done is ditch the 12s &12n plugs in favour of a 13pin plug and socket, these have dedicated pins for earths, and both the fridge and charge wires are closed circuits, the road lights could possibly benifit from a better earth, but the circuit is broken at the hitch by the stabiliser head through poor conductive pads, or a greased ball.Clive-Cardiff said:
the break away chain is earthed however but this would be unstable, fitting a 13pin makes the joining of pins 3 and 7 on the 7 pin plug obsolete,
you could back feed the earth wires from the caravan circuits if you could get a big enough ground plate "like the chasis" but there is really no need if the earth wires from the sockets to the car earth are big enough and have good contact.
Tried to source the wire today at the last minute could only get 28 strands rated at 17 amps would this be ok??colin-yorkshire said:
Got it from a auto electrician and he said it would be alright but reading the above it states 21.5 amps
Mind you he didnt charge me for it.
Got to do it tomorrow afternoon as we are away on thursday and the OH uses the truck for work.
If the earth from both 12s and 12n are either coupled inside the van orcolin-yorkshire said:
both earthed to the caravan chassis , you would get the benefit of an
extra pin carrying the load for the fridge etc.
hi kev, sorry for the delay been working till midnight, saw your post,
it should be alright as you are wiring the earth leads, as it is 28 strand and possibly 2.0 mm. the only difference is the diameter of each of the strands, and the thickness of the insulation at 17amp on on a earth it's near enough,
the reason the recommended amps is 21.5 is because the fuse that feeds the power circuit at the car end is 20amp.so the wire on the power feed needs to be higher, the wire diameter used on the earth could be lower but for convienience is made the same grade.
hope this explains it,
hope you get it done tomorrow (sorry today) it's going to be a scorcher
it should be alright as you are wiring the earth leads, as it is 28 strand and possibly 2.0 mm. the only difference is the diameter of each of the strands, and the thickness of the insulation at 17amp on on a earth it's near enough,
the reason the recommended amps is 21.5 is because the fuse that feeds the power circuit at the car end is 20amp.so the wire on the power feed needs to be higher, the wire diameter used on the earth could be lower but for convienience is made the same grade.
hope this explains it,
hope you get it done tomorrow (sorry today) it's going to be a scorcher
HELP...... My Fridge does'nt work!!!!!!!!!!! on 12v Car (yes I did start the engine)
wired the socket and plugged it all in, all lights etc work, but not the fridge
Took it all apart and double checked the wire's in both the plug and socket and all seem fine
Fridge is working on 240v mains
Would the original problem have damaged the cable else where?
Is there an in line fuse blown anywhere?
Thanks for any help
wired the socket and plugged it all in, all lights etc work, but not the fridge
Took it all apart and double checked the wire's in both the plug and socket and all seem fine
Fridge is working on 240v mains
Would the original problem have damaged the cable else where?
Is there an in line fuse blown anywhere?
Thanks for any help
hi Kev,
does the charge circuit work, if not there is a 20amp fuse that feeds the smart relay, this may have blown,
the fuse could be either near the relay or at the other end where the power feed wire take off is.
failing that I am afraid is down to a muli meter, check the feed wire at the socket first and then work backwards to the relay if the relay is dead check the feed wire right back to the car battery, there is a break in continuity somewhere. also check the fuses in the van there may just be one for the 12v fridge operation I'm not saying there is one but there might be!!.if you find the plug and socket are live.
does the charge circuit work, if not there is a 20amp fuse that feeds the smart relay, this may have blown,
the fuse could be either near the relay or at the other end where the power feed wire take off is.
failing that I am afraid is down to a muli meter, check the feed wire at the socket first and then work backwards to the relay if the relay is dead check the feed wire right back to the car battery, there is a break in continuity somewhere. also check the fuses in the van there may just be one for the 12v fridge operation I'm not saying there is one but there might be!!.if you find the plug and socket are live.
Hi Kev
If all Colin's excellent advice fails make sure all the earth wires are working correctly. Again the multimeter will help you.
I bet you wish you never started this mod!
If all Colin's excellent advice fails make sure all the earth wires are working correctly. Again the multimeter will help you.
I bet you wish you never started this mod!
This is getting too complicated for me now!!!colin-yorkshire said:
Yes i can check the fuses, and yes I have a multi meter but dont know how to use it properly!!
I can check the caravan battery with it and thats your lot
To make it worse OH has taken the truck to work and wont be back until 6.00pm.
Dusty --- You know me I like a challenge, I will get it sorted...(even if I have to call in the engineer)
Ok so as I have the van and not the truck I have found two fuses for the fridge, one for ignition and the other fridge, checked the fuses for continunaty and both OK, wonderful thing this internet
Now need advice as I cant seem to find it on the net.
Checking the wires in the socket and plug
Do I use the continuaty setting (this should beep if ok) or the OHM setting?
As I am looking for fridge power and earth do I probe pin 10 (red Live) and chassis/ground? What reading would I get.
And same with the earth probe pin 11 presume this would beep as it would complete the circuit
Hope i have explained it properly
Ps Hope it's the fuse in the truck
Now need advice as I cant seem to find it on the net.
Checking the wires in the socket and plug
Do I use the continuaty setting (this should beep if ok) or the OHM setting?
As I am looking for fridge power and earth do I probe pin 10 (red Live) and chassis/ground? What reading would I get.
And same with the earth probe pin 11 presume this would beep as it would complete the circuit
Hope i have explained it properly
Ps Hope it's the fuse in the truck
Zippedeee do da.........Zippedeee da
As you can guess I'm a happy bunny.
In line fuse next to battery.
have got a 30amp green fuse in there??
Should it be a 20amp?
Didnt have a 20 or 30amp so checked with 25amp and fridge working, put 30amp back in (Checked with multi meter and it was blown) and checked again and didnt work. Put 25amp back in and again it worked.
So any advice on weather it should be 20 or 30amp.
Again many thanks for your help.
What would you be doing if I didnt keep you busy
As you can guess I'm a happy bunny.
In line fuse next to battery.
have got a 30amp green fuse in there??
Should it be a 20amp?
Didnt have a 20 or 30amp so checked with 25amp and fridge working, put 30amp back in (Checked with multi meter and it was blown) and checked again and didnt work. Put 25amp back in and again it worked.
So any advice on weather it should be 20 or 30amp.
Again many thanks for your help.
What would you be doing if I didnt keep you busy
What make and model fridge do you have Kev?
A 20 amp fuse on 12 volts will you allow you a max of 240 watts. My fridge is rated at 175 watts max. So 20 amps is ok.
Have you consulted that owners handbook you have hidden away in the bowels of the Fleetwood?
A 20 amp fuse on 12 volts will you allow you a max of 240 watts. My fridge is rated at 175 watts max. So 20 amps is ok.
Have you consulted that owners handbook you have hidden away in the bowels of the Fleetwood?
What make and model fridge do you have Kev?
A 20 amp fuse on 12 volts will you allow you a max of 240 watts. My fridge is rated at 175 watts max. So 20 amps is ok.
Have you consulted that owners handbook you have hidden away in the bowels of the Fleetwood?
A 20 amp fuse on 12 volts will you allow you a max of 240 watts. My fridge is rated at 175 watts max. So 20 amps is ok.
Have you consulted that owners handbook you have hidden away in the bowels of the Fleetwood?
Dustydog said:
Hmm ..Owners handbook consulted that and started to read all the jargon for the Dometric fridge.
Problem is the fridge I have is a Thetford
But never fear there is a label in the fridge and at 12 volts it is rated at 140 watts so on that a 20 or 15amp fuse would do, am I correct?
Oh and just found a separate manual for it but doesnt confirm the wattage in there,
but the back page tells me what loo chemicals and toilet paper to use
hi Kev,
glad it's sorted brilliant mate, a blown inline fuse near the battery eh, a lesson for us all, (go for the simplist first) I will bet you have learned more about you van electrics in a couple of days than you learned in previous years, thats what it is all about
as for the fuse size DD is right 15 or 20amp I would advise using a 20amp though because, although a 15amp is big enough a 20amp is better for the extra capacity for when the fridge is going full belt and the charge circuit is trying to bump up the van battery at the same time, besides the the wire is rated at 21.5amp so you might as well use near it's full capacity,
ps, the 30amp fuse would never have blown had the plugs not melted but conversely had the fuse been a 20amp it would have blown before the plugs melted (preventing most of the damage) we live and learn so to speak.
glad it's sorted brilliant mate, a blown inline fuse near the battery eh, a lesson for us all, (go for the simplist first) I will bet you have learned more about you van electrics in a couple of days than you learned in previous years, thats what it is all about
as for the fuse size DD is right 15 or 20amp I would advise using a 20amp though because, although a 15amp is big enough a 20amp is better for the extra capacity for when the fridge is going full belt and the charge circuit is trying to bump up the van battery at the same time, besides the the wire is rated at 21.5amp so you might as well use near it's full capacity,
ps, the 30amp fuse would never have blown had the plugs not melted but conversely had the fuse been a 20amp it would have blown before the plugs melted (preventing most of the damage) we live and learn so to speak.
Hi colin yes I have learned quite a bit lately, trying to remember it all is the problem
It has been down to your good self , DD and the rest on here who have guided me along the path, thankyou all
will go for the 20 amp fuse, also thought that about the 30 amp one (see I'm not all thick all of the time), makes you wonder why the guy fitted it in the first place.
Thanks again.
It has been down to your good self , DD and the rest on here who have guided me along the path, thankyou all
will go for the 20 amp fuse, also thought that about the 30 amp one (see I'm not all thick all of the time), makes you wonder why the guy fitted it in the first place.
Thanks again.
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