• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Brake rod and handbrake lever replacement

Page 2 - Passionate about caravans & motorhome? Join our community to share that passion with a global audience!
You will need to get under the van to disconnect the brake cables as they are held in place by a nut .
The cable ends have a screw thread and go through the compensator.
 
Thanks again. Just gonna have to see in due course. First thing to do is try getting the front end up as high as possible and its behind close to the ground hoping that that will give me more crawl space underneath. I'll update when I've scratched some time out for a go at it.
 
That sounds like an OK method, particularly for a smaller chassis and if the wheels are staying on. Perhaps you could use your digger to make a trench at the back so is will tip up even more. Should give great access. Make sure the hitch is propped, don't want to have it descend on you.

John
 
It will be interesting to see how high I can get the front end (with or without a trench at the back-end): I don't have, what I call, a high lift "farm jack", but I do have 2x jockey wheels that I can crank up one-by-one with an increasing number of "packers" underneath each time. My main concern is when the brakes are released with the nose lifted up: I think I might drive a decent spike into ground up front and tether caravan nose to that before releasing brakes much-less venturing under. (There is just enough room for my body-frame when 'van is in a normal position, but I'd be the one needing a rope tied to me somewhere to drag me out if it all went wrong. Lol)
 
Last edited:
You seem to be over thinking this. Chock the wheels (always chock when jacking). Wind the back steadies up. Lift the front using the jockey wheel after placing a block (Concrete building blocks are perfect) under the jockey wheel. There will be plenty of space in front of the axle where you want to be. Wind the front steadies down and put some thing like blocks under them to be doubly safe. It just takes a few minutes to undo the nut on the rod and take the rod out of the compensation plate. Go easy, and you won't even touch the cables or release the tension on them. It doesn't matter how badly bent the rod is, just straighten it. If it's broken then weld it back together. It's just a steel rod.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Back
Top