Can't remove my Alko Secure Wheel lock - HELP!!!!

Aug 31, 2008
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I'm sure many of you will have read my Very postive comments regarding AL-KO coming out last week to check out my ATC - for which I am very grateful

To jack up the 'van to check out the ATC they had to remove and, later re-fit the AL-KO Secure wheel lock. Paul Jones kindly later sent some minor parts to improve lock's operation.

Tonight wife, son and I spent a while removing cover ready to pull 'van off drive to go for its annual service. It has not been touched since Alko team left. All went extremely well at first but then I came to remove the Alko secure wheel lock. Barrel lock came out very easily but when I tried to unscrew the bolt with the "key" and wrench it just turns around without actually unscrewing. I suspect it has been cross-threaded. Sorrry to sound like Victor Meldrew but I JUST DON'T BELIEVE IT. I will obviously be speaking to Alko tomorrow.

Has anyone got any experience of this problem??

GROAN!!!!!!!!!

Regards

Tim
 
Nov 7, 2005
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Yes Tim, I have experienced the same problem - and that's why mine will never be used again! If you don't position the wheel exactly right, the key bolt fitting is decidedly iffy. I dare not tighten the key without worrying as to whether I will actually get it off again. Left on for any period of time and the problem is likely to get worse. Persevere to get if off - and then ditch it would be my advice...
 
Aug 31, 2008
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Thanks Colinn

You were right the bolt was very badly aligned with the receiver and was being fouled by the alloy wheel. I went back for a second try after my initial post and with some brute force I managed to get the lock off. Halleujah - 'van is out and ready to go for it's service.

I've not had this problem before - I am always very careful to centre the receiver between the wheel "spokes". I can't really give up on it as I get a discount for using it on my Caravan Club insurance.

Thanks for the advice.

Tim

Thanks again.

Regards

Tim
 
Jun 28, 2007
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Have the same problem with mine.

The 'key' seems to have very little profile to engage on the bolt. Have to rotate the key VERY carefully as I feel for it to engage, then VERY carefully try to hold it in position while I get the spanner on to undo it. This usually takes a few attempts as the key disengages from the bolt VERY easily! ANY misalignment of the parts only magnifies this problem.

What I've learnt is that it pays to just gently *** up the bolt when installing the lock to ensure an overtightened bolt doesn't make matters worse when it comes time to remove it.

The key / bolt design is poor - but the discount on the insurance (Camping & Caravanning Club for us) ensures we persevere!
 
Jan 14, 2009
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Hi,

Have to agree with the comments, and add another issue ?

Don't know if any of you have T/A's but I find this a real pain -you invariably have to jack up at least one axle to turn the wheel to line up the receiver but when you fit the lock and lower the van back down, the wheel can no longer rotate slightly as the suspension settles - this seems to then place considerable strain on the lock/receiver and makes it incredibly tight to undo again - anyone got any bright ideas ?

Jon
 
Apr 5, 2008
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Is this not a case of the lock doing what it says on the tin,if it is hard to get off with the key it must be harder with out I have only had the problem when the van has not been level back to front as the weight sits on one wheel but only once had to jack it up to take weight off then came off ok hope you have a good summer
 
Mar 29, 2007
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Good morning Tim,

Having read the post on here and the other forums and from the description given, it would appear that you have not located the key into the head of the locking bolt correctly.

If the bolt was cross threaded then it would have been more difficult to turn. Again, if there was any sort of alignment problem, you wouldn't have been able to turn the key at all. I cant understand why it initially freely rotates, but then requires brute force to remove.

Did you jack the wheel up slightly prior to trying to remove the lock, as per our recommendation, as this also eases the removal/fitment process.

My advice here would be to ensure you have correctly inserted the key into the head of the locking bolt. If you push the key as far into the lock as possible and turn it to ensure it lines up with the special shaped head, the key should drop into the slot and stop turning. This should allow you, with the use of the wheel brace, to remove the locking bolt.

During our visit two weeks ago, we did check the AL-KO Secure Wheel Lock as well, as your wife mentioned that you were experiencing some stiffness when turning the key in the barrel lock. Upon examination we found no problems with the wheel lock itself, the threads on the locking bolt and receiver were in good condition and we were able to remove it and re-fit with no problems.

The barrel lock components were a little stiff, but our advice to your wife on this issue, was to maintain the barrel lock with a spray of WD40 every so often to ensure the components remain free from ingress of grime etc.

Just to add, the additional parts that I sent you would not improve the locks operation, the black cover which you should have received with the yellow plugs, prevent marking to the alloy wheel. The black plugs are to fit into the barrel lock when the lock is in place to prevent water and dirt getting into the lock components when the caravan is standing at home or on site.

I hope this answers your questions, but feel free to give me a call.

Kind regards,

Paul Jones

Marketing Manager

AL-KO Kober Limited
 
Apr 13, 2009
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We have one on our Bailey 'van. I've only used it once at home because the drive slopes back towards the front of the house and jacking up the n/s wheel to turn to fit the lock is, in my opinion, far too dangerous an operation. take one wheel off the drive and the 'van comes round on the o/s wheel at fair old rate, the rear of the 'van came within 2-3 " of striking the house. And crushing me in the process! No thanks ALKO, good idea, but flawed I'm afraid. I now thread my very expensive heavy duty Bike lock and chain thru' the wheel and chassis, not quite the same deterrent but I think its a safer bet.
 
Jan 14, 2009
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Sorry to Hijack this post slightly but I see Paul from ALKO is responding, so a question for Paul......

I almost always have to jack my Twin Axle on at least one axle to get both receivers lined up - when you lower the van after fitting the lock the wheel obviously trys to turn slightly as the van settles on its suspension - with the lock in place it cant do this - this obviously places considerable pressure on the wheel and receiver ???

Is this something that I should worry about - obviously I do wehen I go to remove the lock because the pressure makes it difficult to turn the bolt - I note your point about jacking it back up but this becomes a real chore!

Any comments would be appreciated.

Jon
 
Mar 28, 2005
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A question for Paul Jones,what is the black cover that you mention to prevent damage to the wheel? as my wheel lock has caused quite a lot of damage to my alloy wheel
 
Mar 29, 2007
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A question for Paul Jones,what is the black cover that you mention to prevent damage to the wheel? as my wheel lock has caused quite a lot of damage to my alloy wheel
Big Roy,

We have introduced a black plastic cover that is moulded to the shape of the lock. It fits over the back of the lock and provides a barrier between the wheel and the lock. It replaces the use of the black strips on the back of the lock.

Any new lock kit includes the black cover, but we are in the process of launching them as an accessory. They will be available on our webshop in the next couple of weeks.

Hope this answers your question.

Paul
 
Mar 29, 2007
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Sorry to Hijack this post slightly but I see Paul from ALKO is responding, so a question for Paul......

I almost always have to jack my Twin Axle on at least one axle to get both receivers lined up - when you lower the van after fitting the lock the wheel obviously trys to turn slightly as the van settles on its suspension - with the lock in place it cant do this - this obviously places considerable pressure on the wheel and receiver ???

Is this something that I should worry about - obviously I do wehen I go to remove the lock because the pressure makes it difficult to turn the bolt - I note your point about jacking it back up but this becomes a real chore!

Any comments would be appreciated.

Jon
The recommendation for fitting the lock is to jack the vehicle to allow easy alignment of the receiver.

When the vehicle is dropped back down, the swing-arm assembly will move on the rubber suspension. But not sufficient to cause any problems.

In reverse, when removing the lock, we recommend that the vehicle be jacked up slightly, enough to allow the suspension to drop and relieve what pressure may be applied. This will allow easier removal of the wheel lock.

Hope this helps.

Paul
 
Mar 28, 2005
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A question for Paul Jones,what is the black cover that you mention to prevent damage to the wheel? as my wheel lock has caused quite a lot of damage to my alloy wheel
Thanks Paul, I will have a look for it
 
Mar 29, 2007
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Terry,

When jacking the caravan up, you should do so while the tow vehicle is coupled to the caravan and with the opposite wheel chocked to ensure that the caravan doesnt move during the kacking process.

Kind regards,

Paul
 
Jan 14, 2009
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The recommendation for fitting the lock is to jack the vehicle to allow easy alignment of the receiver.

When the vehicle is dropped back down, the swing-arm assembly will move on the rubber suspension. But not sufficient to cause any problems.

In reverse, when removing the lock, we recommend that the vehicle be jacked up slightly, enough to allow the suspension to drop and relieve what pressure may be applied. This will allow easier removal of the wheel lock.

Hope this helps.

Paul
Paul, Many thanks for the reply it does set my mind at rest a little regarding the strain imposed - I guess I will have to live with the jacking up - shame because otherwise it is a great product !

One thing - I see you suggest WD40 to ease the threads - mine is a new van and they seem to be greased ?? Is this acceptable practise - I guess the dealer must have done this?

Thanks again

Jon
 
Aug 31, 2008
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Paul

Thanks for your prompt reply. I was obviously concerned when I could not initially remove the wheel lock as I had a servicing appointment to keep. At some stage in the process of the lock being fitted after your visit the wheel and/or caravan had moved slightly taking the receiver and bolt considerably out of line. This meant that though the shaped bolt-key was enaged in the head of the bolt it was not unscrewing the bolt.

With encouragement and suggestions, last night, from other caravan forum members I did get the lock off. I did actually jack up the 'van to assist with the removal process. Obviously our sloping drive does not help with aligning the lock and receiver as it is easy for 'van to move back slightly.

Whilst on this subject could I just ask about the problem I have experienced with the lock, previously, which my wife did not perhaps make clear.

When turning the barrel lock key in the barrel lock I find it difficult to keep the keyhole from spinning around so that I can actually turn the key to lock/unlock the mechanism. Even when I use a screwdriver in the groved area around the keyhole it is still hard to stop it rotating. Any suggestions?

Thanks too for black covers and yellow caps which arrived this morning.

In the light of the comments from others I would add that, apart from difficulties previously mentioned, I find the AL-KO lock reasonably convenient and effective. It is fiddle to line up the receiver and lock as I don't have a motor mover but I still usually manage by pushing/pulling the 'van before unhooking to line the lock. I feel this is quicker than regularly jacking up the 'van particularly as it would be unsuitable jacking surfaces on many pitches.

Regards Tim
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Thanks Paul, I will have a look for it
Will the kit containing the barrier also have the barrel lock-protector in it. I am interested as I contacted Alko secure some while ago regarding the Alloy wheel protector but never had a reply from Alko.
 
Apr 13, 2009
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We have one on our Bailey 'van. I've only used it once at home because the drive slopes back towards the front of the house and jacking up the n/s wheel to turn to fit the lock is, in my opinion, far too dangerous an operation. take one wheel off the drive and the 'van comes round on the o/s wheel at fair old rate, the rear of the 'van came within 2-3 " of striking the house. And crushing me in the process! No thanks ALKO, good idea, but flawed I'm afraid. I now thread my very expensive heavy duty Bike lock and chain thru' the wheel and chassis, not quite the same deterrent but I think its a safer bet.
Yes ,I understand that Paul, trouble is, we are on a busy road and my car would block the road for too long. It's ok,we just happen to be in that sort of position I'm afraid. I'm quite happy with my arrangement,wish the chassis had a coresponding ring on it to really secure wheel to it by passing chain thru'.
 
Mar 10, 2006
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You have to jack the van to fit the wheel clamp!!

What a load of rubbish.

Don't these products get trailed?

Another advance in caravan design, not!
 
Mar 14, 2005
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I think this device is a good idea in principle - but it has ruined my alloy wheel with unsightly marks and all that tooing and froing on site to get it lined up makes it a complete nonsense really especially after a long journey and your tired and get back to the yard where you store it. Yes I hear you say just use your motormovers - dont want them - my insurance too says not covered unless I use this lock. Is there anything else I can use instead I have never had so much trouble in lining up the hole on my Bailey than this piece of kit - I know caravanning should be getting easier but this is really a joke.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Sorry in addition to my last message if Alko are listening

WHY NOT MAKE THE RED PART THAT FITS THROUGH THE SPOKE THINNER

TO GIVE PEOPLE A BIT MORE LEEWAY IN FITTING IT ? surely you could of designed it so the outer part of the red bit covers the spoke hole so there is no access to the inner workings ?
 
Sep 15, 2006
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I've not had any problems at all with my lock - now into its third year. I have put a small squirt of white grease in a couple of times - but that was more preventative than needed.

I do normally use the mover to line it up, but as I have muscular dystrophy I'm used to finding the easy way of doing each task!

Two caravans were stolen from a site where mine was on a seasonal pitch when mine was new (and obviously unoccupied at the time) - I attribute this to the Alko lock.
 
Jun 20, 2005
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Steve

Personally I think it is a good piece of kit from the theft deterrent aspect. And that's where it stops.

Until very recently I have used the trolley jack and the "cheat method" described on here 18 months ago.

The jack is ok except where you are using levelling ramps rather than wooden planks. On my TA I have noticed that the wheel's suspensionchanges attitude once the lock is fitted is than lowered back onto the ground. A wind up effect that makes removal without the jack difficult.

Ok so you don't have a mover but do you have a partner whose clutch control is good enough to move the whole outfit mm by mm? I got a mover. Unless I am on solid concrete the following works very well.

Get the non driven wheel lined up and secured.

Drag the caravan with the mover until the driven wheel lines up.

Go forward a shade more then reverse the fraction back to the lined up position. Attach the Al-ko lock. The last bit stops the suspension winding up and thus release of both units once loosened can be done by hand.

Not quoted by Bailey or Al-ko but it has worked for me over the last 18 months.

Cheers

Dustydog
 

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