Can anyone advise? When we hook up the second connector (for keeping the fridge working whilst on the move)it blows a 20amp fuse on the car, with the result that air con and reversing lights don't function. My other half thinks it occurs when he engages reverse. We've had no trouble in the past, but we think this is possibly the first occasion that we've bothered to travel with the fridge hooked up to this car. Is there a glitch in the wiring of the towbar? We had it put on when we bought the car last September.
Car fuses blow!
- Thread starter JoannaLesley
- Start date
Yes, it probably is to do with the wiring in the car. We had exactly the same problem with our Mondeo when we got our new caravan - and it was something to do with the modern engine management systems, and the towbar wiring being incorrectly connected to the wrong 'wires' in the car. It's been solved now, after two visits to the towbar fitters - and a conversation eventually between them and our local caravan dealership who recognised the problem and knew the solution straight away. We still have a problem in that the pin which operates the fridge connection overheats if not 'looked after' correctly. At each stop we check the connection, and make sure the 'pin' is open and the receiving 'bit' absolutely clean and this last trip had no problems. Some say it will be solved when we go over to the 13 pin plug now used on the continent.
Jo, perhaps the clue is it blew the fuse when selecting reverse. The caravan reversing light is fed via the 12S (grey) socket so that is where I would start if it were me.
With the van disconnected check with a voltmeter / test lamp or similar for 12v positive on pin 1 with the negative on pin 3 with car ignition ON and reverse selected. If it is OK, which I think it is, then suspect the van. With a battery fed with a 20A fuse in the positive connect the positive to pin 1 and the negative to pin 3. Does the van reversing lamp come ON? Does the fuse blow?
With the van disconnected check with a voltmeter / test lamp or similar for 12v positive on pin 1 with the negative on pin 3 with car ignition ON and reverse selected. If it is OK, which I think it is, then suspect the van. With a battery fed with a 20A fuse in the positive connect the positive to pin 1 and the negative to pin 3. Does the van reversing lamp come ON? Does the fuse blow?
If you do not have a voltmeter can you disconnect the Yellow wire on Pin 1 of the van 12S Plug and see if the fuse blows when selecting reverse. You could also remove the reversing lamp bulb and see what happens.
Hi Valerie,
The single 13 pin ISO 11446 connector has been used in Europe for around 15 years, and was specifically designed to handle currents of 25 amps - be water-proof - be corrosion resistant - and have a positive locking mechanism.
We've towed all over Europe - always with 13 pin connectors for years - and have never had a fridge connection problem - it's a great fit and forget connector.
Robert
The single 13 pin ISO 11446 connector has been used in Europe for around 15 years, and was specifically designed to handle currents of 25 amps - be water-proof - be corrosion resistant - and have a positive locking mechanism.
We've towed all over Europe - always with 13 pin connectors for years - and have never had a fridge connection problem - it's a great fit and forget connector.
Robert
I know - we've now to carry a spare grey connector (both bits!!!!) with us as we've had several problems in the past which necessitated a change - and you can't buy them in France. We've thought that we should change - but as we've now solved the blowing fuse problems we don't want to tempt fate!
We're looking at buying another van, possibly continental, and will then take the opportunity to change the connector!
We're looking at buying another van, possibly continental, and will then take the opportunity to change the connector!
It's not necessarily the caravan reversing lights causing the problem ... it might be the way that the whole system is wired. Mine takes a live feed from a big thick wire in the car fusebox, which has its own fuse. The car lights then act as a trigger to deliver this dedicated power to the caravan lights and fridge/battery.
Is your car wired so that the caravan power source comes from an existing 20A circuit? If so, then all will be well until it is loaded by aircon and reversing lights. If this is so, then the 20A rating is for just the aircon and rev lights, not the caravan as well.
I think you first need to check (or get an auto electrician to check) that the heavy (2.5mm I think) cable to the 12S is connected to an appropriate source in the car.
Is your car wired so that the caravan power source comes from an existing 20A circuit? If so, then all will be well until it is loaded by aircon and reversing lights. If this is so, then the 20A rating is for just the aircon and rev lights, not the caravan as well.
I think you first need to check (or get an auto electrician to check) that the heavy (2.5mm I think) cable to the 12S is connected to an appropriate source in the car.
To clarify - the wire to my 13-pin socket has its own fuse. The big think wire in the car probably comes from the huge fuse. Sorry for ambiguity.
Thanks all. There are some useful pointers there. When we get our car back (see different thread!)I will get him indoors to have a thorough check.
Incidentally, our van doesn't have reversing lists - much too old!
Jo
Incidentally, our van doesn't have reversing lists - much too old!
Jo
Jo, it may be interesting then to know what if anything is connected to pin 1 of the 12S plug in the caravan. You do not have reversing lights but perhaps the yellow wire is connected to the plug and the far end shorting out somewhere in the van?
Hello Jo,
The sheer diversity of the responses shows how difficult it is to diagnose and offer a correct solution to this type of problem through a forum.
I can only suggest you bite the bullet and hand the problem over to a competent auto electrician, who can diagnose the problem first hand, and then go on to correct it.
Don't forget that badly wired 12V systems have enough energy in them to easily start a fire.
The sheer diversity of the responses shows how difficult it is to diagnose and offer a correct solution to this type of problem through a forum.
I can only suggest you bite the bullet and hand the problem over to a competent auto electrician, who can diagnose the problem first hand, and then go on to correct it.
Don't forget that badly wired 12V systems have enough energy in them to easily start a fire.
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