Cascade 2

[murfeey]

So after our last trip away woke up.on the day coming home and found the carpet damp.swift royale 540.turned off the water drained tank down and found a leak on back of heater element.
So ordered new o ring set.
Next problem the head of the bolt holding the element in had corroded literally on half.and the long bokt holding the tank to base rotten too.
So.purchased new bolts etc.
Now put back together .what's the process of refilling starting etc.
As havent got a manual.
Thanks shaun

 

[ProfJohnL]

You will fid a copy of the manual here

 

[audiorob]

Assuming you mean priming the system for use...
Full aquaroll, pump dropped in, close yellow drain tap (by water heater), switch on pump on control panel, run hot tap furthest from inlet (usually bathroom)until running smooth, then next tap, then sink tap, then repeat with cold taps. Once all running smoothly after your experience check for leaks! Then turn on the water heater. When draining down open the yellow drain tap, ensure the heater is off, allow to cool, then open all the taps half between hot/cold and allow to drain. (I like to allow the water in the tank to cool before draining, saves scalding the grass and avoids damage to the heater being still hot but empty). It will continue to empty a bit on the tow home!
Do not allow the pump to run when the aquaroll is empty.
If a pressure system you may need to adjust the sensor to ensure the pump starts and stops as water is used...
worth printing a copy to keep in the caravan folder as it will need adjustment from time to time

https://www.whalepumps.com/rv/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/WhaleAdjustingyourpressureswitchb.pdf

LATER EDIT:
As I think it is a motor home not a caravan I think you will have an internal tank so please amend this reply as needed!

 

[murfeey]

Thanks chaps.i havent got aquaroll.so I gather fill up water tank run pump to all the taps . Purge air.then turn the heater on ?.
Cheers shaun

 

[ProfJohnL]

Sorry I sent the link for the installation instructions. Here is a link for the User Instructions.

 

[murfeey]

Cheers John .
Filled up system .open cold tap bled out good flow .opened hot tap bled air out.
Turned heater on checked gas .burner all good .hot water in shower and sink.
when I turn it off now the pressure relief flutters.
Got good flow to cold and hot no air in system and no leaks from tank through to heater shower sink etc.
Its also got a brand new whale valve pressure switch fitted.old one wouldn't adjust.
Bit stumped as set it up via instructions. Would it be a pump issue .
Cheers shaun

 

[ProfJohnL]

Cheers John .
Filled up system .open cold tap bled out good flow .opened hot tap bled air out.
Turned heater on checked gas .burner all good .hot water in shower and sink.
when I turn it off now the pressure relief flutters.
Got good flow to cold and hot no air in system and no leaks from tank through to heater shower sink etc.
Its also got a brand new whale valve pressure switch fitted.old one wouldn't adjust.
Bit stumped as set it up via instructions. Would it be a pump issue .
Cheers shaun

I presume you are referring to the Cascades Pressure Relief valve, outside on the bottom left hand corner of the heater cowl. This should not "flutter" The maximum cold water pressure should not exceed 1.5Bar. to protect not only the heater but the rest of the water system in the caravan.

If the pressure relief valve is fluttering when the pump runs, two possibilities arise. Firstly and most common is the wrong water pump pressure has been used, or the PRV itself is faulty and is letting go before its designed limit.

The set pressure I believe should 2Bar, this is becasue with the cold water pressure up to 1.5Bar, when the cold water is heated, its expansion will raise the pressure beyond the cold water pressure, and the heater needs to be able to contain the elevated hot pressure.

 

[murfeey]

Apologies John.
Its the prv valve inside the van after the pump.its a new whale valve as the old one wasn't working properly ,it packed up stopping all flow of water.the adjustment wheel wouldn't adjust.etc.so.i bought a new one and replaced.
Set as instructions supplied.when I use cold it cuts off when the tap is turned off.
When the hot is used it runs on a little bit .then begins to flutter.
Been over a the pipework no leaks.coukd it be a faulty pump.its a whale one no markings on it ?

Thanks shaun

 

[ProfJohnL]

I think we have misunderstood your problem, possibly due to incorrect terminology. Based on your description of of the adjustment wheel you are actually referring to the Pressure Switch. A PRV stands for Pressure Relief Valve which water heaters do have, as I described above.

However your more detailed description of the symptoms does suggest a possible cause for the Pressure Switch to flutter. The fact you have had to replace the pressure switch suggests the system may have been damaged by frost.

Its essential the water system is fully drained down if the caravan is to be stored and there is a risk of frost, as any remaining water lying in valves and in the heater will freeze and expand as it gets colder. This can damage the internal workings of the pressure switch, and also the Non Return Valve on the cold inlet to water the heater .

The expanding ice can unseat and distort the "O ring seals inside the NRV jamming it partly but not fully open. This results in a restricted flow of cold water into the heater, which means the pressure in the cold pipe work might rise enough to trip the pressure switch, but the heater's tank has not been fully filled. So as cold water continues to fill the tank it reduces the pressure in the pipework enough to cause the pump to turn on again. This may happen several times until the pressure in the hot tank has equalised with the cold pipework.

When this happens its common to notice the hot flow through the taps is poor compared to the cold, and some times uses notice when they turn on the cold tap, the water flows for a second or so before the pump turns on, and some even report having a pulse of warm water through the cold tap before the pump starts. The compromised NRV fails to lock the hot water in the heater and as it expands as it heats some will push back through the NRV into the cold pipe work, as will the greater pressure of the hot water thus adding pressure to the cold water for a moment as the tap is opened.

SOme times the NRV on the heaters input can be dismantled and re assembeled and it may work again, but on other occasions it may need to replaced.


p.s The originals were white plastic

 

[murfeey]

Apologies John for terminology. I've replaced the above with new .as for frost would it of been damaged previously as in the middle of summer at the moment.the cascade unit has fully been rebuilt too .and works perfectly now.
I've renewed all the fittings cold and hot water side t piece and a new pressure switch too.bit stumped.what I have noticed on the heater it says 1.4 bar max pressure could it be that the pump.i have is too big.theres no marking on it and no idea how long its been in the tank.
Was going to replace it with a new whale 1652 and was going to fit a surge damper .I gather the system ive got is quite old .
Cheers shaun

 

[ProfJohnL]

Yes the system you have will be at least 23 years old, as the Cascades were withdrawn from sale in 2000 when Carver sold their leisure arm to Truma.

If you have replaced the pressure switch , then it should limit the pressure in the cold system adequately, provided its been adjusted correctly.

The Cascade 2 should only be taken up to 1.4-1.5Bar by the cold water pump, but due to the expansion of water as it heats up the pressure may rise a little above this quite safely it is designed to allow for this.

Frost damage only results when the caravan experiences sub zero temperatures sustained for several hours with heating taking place. Its very unlikely for for freezing to be a problem if you are using the caravan in frosty conditions as you will almost certainly be using other heating devices which should prevent the internal pipes and appliances from dropping to freezing point.

Don't bother with a surge damper unless you experience alternating pulses of hot and warm water from mixer taps as the pump activates.