Brilliant as I have a Swift 480 Challenger. Is the fuse removable without having to remove thew MW? If not is the MW easily removable?
Agreed re 12V isolation. Mine has a battery isolator and a solar panel isolator both. Battery isolators cost little online, solar panel isolators are not that pricey either. Cost cutting in the caravan industry for me is practiced to a level beyond belief when such things get omitted.
Steve
”Don’t think” doesn’t really cut it here when talking about life and death 😔. I tend to look for certainty here.
Whether you get killed by electricity depends on a lot of factors. Firstly is it AC or DC, DC can be worse. How is the body connected, is the current path through the heart? Two hands applied to opposing DC feeds being an effective way to maximise that effect. What is the medical susceptibility of the person, any tendency to cardiac issues (usually an unknown). At what exact point in the cardiac cycle does the current arrive, timing can affect cardiac effect. Skin conductivity is critical, is the skin wet or salty? Both often apply. What are the secondary risks of uncontrolled movement or a fall?
It is current not voltage that kills, and some of the above factors allow relatively low DC voltages to generate dangerous currents in the heart.
I think with more reading you would find that in the wrong circumstances 40V DC most definitely could kill. Usually it will not kill, but usually is not good enough!
My own anecdote here relates to connecting a 24VDC boat battery pair on a hot day in a damp engine room. I was sweating with very damp skin. Probably salty. My hands touched opposite terminals, maybe at about 26V off load. All I can say is that it was one hell of a belt. I survived despite temporary pain, but was left with no doubt that such voltages could kill if you were unlucky! I have more respect for low voltage DC since!
Electrocution risk is perhaps not the key reason for the isolator anyway. A medium size solar panel setup can give very significant short circuit currents. Fires, burns, eye damage from arc and sparks are all possibles if working on a live solar circuit. I also prefer the panels isolated when the van is not in use. Proper isolation is neeed before working on the charger?
Anyway, the above is why my van has one fitted
Steve
As an electrical and electronics engineer, I detest systems that can't be properly isolated. Even extra low voltage systems can pose risks which can be averted with sensible precautions, like proper terminations with isolation.
So if the solar panel has to be isolated what's the situation with all the caravans on dealer forecourts with no battery in them.
When we bought ours it's had no battery, the dealer fitted it in front of us simply by connecting the cables, no fuse removed, no isolator.
From a safety point of view surely the solar power supply is no more dangerous than the battery itself?
When we bought ours it's had no battery, the dealer fitted it in front of us simply by connecting the cables, no fuse removed, no isolator.
From a safety point of view surely the solar power supply is no more dangerous than the battery itself?
I fitted my own solar panel and put an isolator in line (and a volt meter so I can see what the panel is up to).
I can't remember where I read it, but I think it's to protect the charge controller - the regulator circuits can't control the solar panel if they're not being powered by the battery. But that's only from my memory.
I can't remember where I read it, but I think it's to protect the charge controller - the regulator circuits can't control the solar panel if they're not being powered by the battery. But that's only from my memory.
To monitor my battery I used 12V to USB socket that has voltage display very cheap from Aliexpress. Charging devices was primarily reason for fitting it but voltage display is very useful.
I presume your comment immediately following my own was a response to my comment. My comment was not specifically related to solar systems. It is generally poor practice to disconnect any electrical item leaving unprotected wires or contacts at any voltage.
However, for a solar panel to be able to charge a battery it has to produce a voltage that is higher than the batteries standing voltage. In fact if a panel is disconnected from the battery, in bright sunlight the open circuit output voltage can actually climb quite a lot higher than its rated voltage, and in series connected systems multiple panels could reach what is officially considered to be hazardous levels. An solar panel rated for 12V could easily reach an open circuit voltage of 25V or more in sunlight. Bear in mind that some systems might include diodes and capacitors that may retain such terminal voltages even when the panel is in darkness.
Even at voltages less than the hazard levels, if skin is wet or damaged, it is possible to receive a shock, how many of us have tested a PP3 9V dc battery on our tongue.
A child whose body is smaller than an adult will have a greater risk of a shock being dangerous .
When fitting my 200W panel and MPPT controller I decided on no isolator as per https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/news/isolators-for-solar-panels.html On the very rare times I need to work on the solar system or remove the battery, I simply disconnect a cable.
When installing solar panels I use to cover them with sheet of cardboard to reduce power output until wires had been terminated.
Good call, also it's a better idea to do it when the sun is low (morning or evening). Evening is probably better because the sun is dropping...
If you use a plug connection from the solar panel to the controller, then you can wire up plug to panel, socket to controller without getting involved in any current flowing. Unless "ham-fisted" enough to short out thing wiring the plug up.
So configured then you are readily able to work as most controllers I have worked with need, connect panel last, disconnect panel first, relative to battery controller connections. Without risking arcing as you fumble to pock wires into connections.
So configured then you are readily able to work as most controllers I have worked with need, connect panel last, disconnect panel first, relative to battery controller connections. Without risking arcing as you fumble to pock wires into connections.
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