We all know that an engine has to work harder when towing, but is there any evidence that towing over a long period will cause excessive wear on said engine.
Does towing ruin engines?
- Thread starter Ivorwetwun
- Start date
I'm no expert on engines, but let me pass on what my old man told me many years ago.
He told me not to worry to much about running in an engine. Use it throughout the rev range but stay away from the red line and make full use of the gearbox. Never labour the engine.
Make regular oil and filter changes (about every 4k, regardless of the manufacturers recomendations) and use a good quality oil. Use good quality fuel and air filters.
He may have been right or wrong, I don't know. All I do know is that he was a renowned diesel engineer, who's expertise and knowledge took him all over the world.
I have followed his advice with all my cars, bikes and boats without problems.
He told me not to worry to much about running in an engine. Use it throughout the rev range but stay away from the red line and make full use of the gearbox. Never labour the engine.
Make regular oil and filter changes (about every 4k, regardless of the manufacturers recomendations) and use a good quality oil. Use good quality fuel and air filters.
He may have been right or wrong, I don't know. All I do know is that he was a renowned diesel engineer, who's expertise and knowledge took him all over the world.
I have followed his advice with all my cars, bikes and boats without problems.
Ian is basically right.
A regularly serviced vehicle even towing to is max capability will show little excess wear compared to a poorly maintained vehicle.
I always do my first service about easter time and then another srevice in october. By doing that the car has good oil for towing in the summer and also a good condition of servic eready for the winter. It has 140K on the clock now and will still have another 100K left in it yet.
I have had cars with upto 350K on them which have not had the head off the engine. I must admit i am a Renault fan and have been for over 20 years.
I know of 30K mile cars that have not been looked after, costing hundreds of pounds a year in breakdowns. I spend under
A regularly serviced vehicle even towing to is max capability will show little excess wear compared to a poorly maintained vehicle.
I always do my first service about easter time and then another srevice in october. By doing that the car has good oil for towing in the summer and also a good condition of servic eready for the winter. It has 140K on the clock now and will still have another 100K left in it yet.
I have had cars with upto 350K on them which have not had the head off the engine. I must admit i am a Renault fan and have been for over 20 years.
I know of 30K mile cars that have not been looked after, costing hundreds of pounds a year in breakdowns. I spend under
Kelvin,
As the UK representative to CEN on motor vehicle fuel standards, I do have a little experience in this area:
Towing will add some extra wear and tear on the engine, gearbox and transmission systems; and possibly the suspension too.
But by following the correct maintenance procedure and using the correct grade of lubricants, any difference should be minimal (undetectable).
Much more damage will be done to an engine (and ancillaries) by just using the car for short journeys - the school run syndrome - where for example, water from condensation / combustion products stays entrained in the oil and uses up the additives in the oil.
If your car has a "variable service indicator" - then the engine will have a sensor that monitors oil quality - and give you a readout on the miles or time remaining before the oil needs to be changed.
Good quality lubricants and filters are essential - for instance my new E-class will not need an oil change for 25,000 miles (due in about 4,000) - but this engine uses a fully synthetic oil (Mobil 1 ESP) and a long life (fleece lined) oil filter - and 10 litres of oil in the sump.
Modern fully synthetic oil used in modern Euro IV engines does not need to be changed that frequently - just as well as 10 litres of Mobil 1 ESP will cost over
As the UK representative to CEN on motor vehicle fuel standards, I do have a little experience in this area:
Towing will add some extra wear and tear on the engine, gearbox and transmission systems; and possibly the suspension too.
But by following the correct maintenance procedure and using the correct grade of lubricants, any difference should be minimal (undetectable).
Much more damage will be done to an engine (and ancillaries) by just using the car for short journeys - the school run syndrome - where for example, water from condensation / combustion products stays entrained in the oil and uses up the additives in the oil.
If your car has a "variable service indicator" - then the engine will have a sensor that monitors oil quality - and give you a readout on the miles or time remaining before the oil needs to be changed.
Good quality lubricants and filters are essential - for instance my new E-class will not need an oil change for 25,000 miles (due in about 4,000) - but this engine uses a fully synthetic oil (Mobil 1 ESP) and a long life (fleece lined) oil filter - and 10 litres of oil in the sump.
Modern fully synthetic oil used in modern Euro IV engines does not need to be changed that frequently - just as well as 10 litres of Mobil 1 ESP will cost over
Kelvin,
The earlier posts have said most of it - my threepen'th is also watch out for overheating as this can cause premature failure in the cylinder head area and result in a wrecked engine.
Towing increases the load on the engine and transmission and generates extra heat. Modern cooling systems are able to dissapate this well enough as long as they are in good condition.
If radiators become blocked or choked, hoses alowed to leak undetected allowing coolant levels to lower or thermostats fail to open, then disaster can follow quite suddenly while towing - it is not uncommon for engines to exhibit normal tempertaure levels running about, then you connect the van and the first hill sees that needle go to the red on the temperature guage!
Transmisions are important in preventing overheating of the motor too - keep fluid levels topped up, particularly on Autos as a gearbox generates a lot of heat.
As a tugger the motor is probably the least of your worries if it is properly serviced - I would be more concerned about clutch life, rear springs sagging, autobox life, transmission components and brake parts.
Lets face it, you don't get owt for nowt and if you are subjecting your car to higher workloads then some parts will wear out quicker BUT not the engine necessarily.
The earlier posts have said most of it - my threepen'th is also watch out for overheating as this can cause premature failure in the cylinder head area and result in a wrecked engine.
Towing increases the load on the engine and transmission and generates extra heat. Modern cooling systems are able to dissapate this well enough as long as they are in good condition.
If radiators become blocked or choked, hoses alowed to leak undetected allowing coolant levels to lower or thermostats fail to open, then disaster can follow quite suddenly while towing - it is not uncommon for engines to exhibit normal tempertaure levels running about, then you connect the van and the first hill sees that needle go to the red on the temperature guage!
Transmisions are important in preventing overheating of the motor too - keep fluid levels topped up, particularly on Autos as a gearbox generates a lot of heat.
As a tugger the motor is probably the least of your worries if it is properly serviced - I would be more concerned about clutch life, rear springs sagging, autobox life, transmission components and brake parts.
Lets face it, you don't get owt for nowt and if you are subjecting your car to higher workloads then some parts will wear out quicker BUT not the engine necessarily.
Hi rob - jax, with you possibly being in the "know" maybee you have some insite in to diesel aditives.
I have allways changed the oil and filter plus diesel filter in my cars every 5000 miles despite vw's recomendation of 12000 and have had no problems at all with any of my engines.
As you are probably aware my alhambra tdi 130 has a engine remap which increases the engine to 172 bhp and gives me around 10 % better fuel economy, the car returned about 47 mpg with the re-map, on top of this i have fitted a k&n air filter (i know they can cause problems with airflow meters but mine has been fine) the filter has stopped the turbo pipe callapse problem i was having and has increased fuel economy by a further 10 %, so i now get about 53 to 55 mpg.
Another thing i have allways done with my diesels is used a fuel additive to keep the engine and injectors clean my preffered aditive is millers diesel power.
Recently millers sent me info on a new product called Millers diesel sport 4 which i have used in the last two tanks and to be honest i am absolutely astounded by the results, my car allthough allways very good before is now quieter smoother more responsive a lot lot cleaner from the exhaust plus after filling the tank i towed my van for a 100 mile round trip over the pennines i have been to work 14 times which is a total of 300 miles plus i have had a trip to chester and back with 6 adults in the car which is anoth 150 miles, thats 550 miles of mixed traffic work in a 1.9 diesel mpv and the car still has 1/4 of a tank of diesel left.
in your opinion can this millers aditive really have made such a huge difference (it increases the cetane number by 4)or is somebody filling up my car when im not looking ? either way im very happy with the results.
I have allways changed the oil and filter plus diesel filter in my cars every 5000 miles despite vw's recomendation of 12000 and have had no problems at all with any of my engines.
As you are probably aware my alhambra tdi 130 has a engine remap which increases the engine to 172 bhp and gives me around 10 % better fuel economy, the car returned about 47 mpg with the re-map, on top of this i have fitted a k&n air filter (i know they can cause problems with airflow meters but mine has been fine) the filter has stopped the turbo pipe callapse problem i was having and has increased fuel economy by a further 10 %, so i now get about 53 to 55 mpg.
Another thing i have allways done with my diesels is used a fuel additive to keep the engine and injectors clean my preffered aditive is millers diesel power.
Recently millers sent me info on a new product called Millers diesel sport 4 which i have used in the last two tanks and to be honest i am absolutely astounded by the results, my car allthough allways very good before is now quieter smoother more responsive a lot lot cleaner from the exhaust plus after filling the tank i towed my van for a 100 mile round trip over the pennines i have been to work 14 times which is a total of 300 miles plus i have had a trip to chester and back with 6 adults in the car which is anoth 150 miles, thats 550 miles of mixed traffic work in a 1.9 diesel mpv and the car still has 1/4 of a tank of diesel left.
in your opinion can this millers aditive really have made such a huge difference (it increases the cetane number by 4)or is somebody filling up my car when im not looking ? either way im very happy with the results.
Hi,
Miller's have a reputation for good quality products and additives, but I'd approach this issue in a slightly different manner:
1. Use BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power (now more widely available in the UK) or Total Excellium diesel - these are all 55 Cetane fuels with a really top grade additive pack (injector cleaner and pump lubricant)
I know these synthesised fuels cost around 5 p a litre more, but on the trials I saw at BP Aral in Germany (on a standard TDI engine) the extra cost was recouped by the better efficiency.
But I would recommend them over a standard EN590 pump diesel with Millers additive because:
a) The Millers additive probably costs more than the extra 5 p per litre for the premium fuel.
b) The power and smoke reduction claims are higher than those from using performance diesels - and the main reason for smoke reduction is the almost total absence of Sulfur in the performance diesel - so this is the only area that I have doubts over - but the Miilers publicity does say "up to"
c) The standard fuel is a straight distillation cut from the crude oil stream, there is stuff in the fuel that causes smoke and injector clogging - much better to buy a premium fuel that is clean to begin with.
NOTE: I am not saying that there is anything wrong with normal diesel - but because it comes direct from crude oil - it has some naturally occurring non-optimal components (like Sulfur). Much better to synthesise a "perfect" fuel from scratch.
d) Some of the retailers are suggesting that adding double the quantity of Millers will further improve the performance - I'd disagree with statements like that - you'd just use the additive twice as fast
2. The diesel engine physically cannot benefit from a Cetane index greater than 55 - this is a measure of auto-ignition delay (55 means is starts burning faster than 51) and current engine technology hits a brick wall at 55
Normal pump diesel or bio-diesel blends have a Cetane index of 51. Performance (synthesised) diesel has a Cetane index of 55, and there is absolutely no point in raising the Cetane index above 55.
So if you keep going with the Millers additive - don't waste your money by adding it to a performance diesel - increasing the Cetane index to 59 will make absolutely no difference.
And on the subject of performance diesels, I've just driven a slightly modified version of my standard E-320 CDI - the Brabus D6 with 295 bhp (up 60 bhp) and 600 NM torque - and it was reasonably quick. And it's a Mercedes approved re-map that doesn't affect the Euro IV+ rating. Awfully tempted.
Robert
Miller's have a reputation for good quality products and additives, but I'd approach this issue in a slightly different manner:
1. Use BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power (now more widely available in the UK) or Total Excellium diesel - these are all 55 Cetane fuels with a really top grade additive pack (injector cleaner and pump lubricant)
I know these synthesised fuels cost around 5 p a litre more, but on the trials I saw at BP Aral in Germany (on a standard TDI engine) the extra cost was recouped by the better efficiency.
But I would recommend them over a standard EN590 pump diesel with Millers additive because:
a) The Millers additive probably costs more than the extra 5 p per litre for the premium fuel.
b) The power and smoke reduction claims are higher than those from using performance diesels - and the main reason for smoke reduction is the almost total absence of Sulfur in the performance diesel - so this is the only area that I have doubts over - but the Miilers publicity does say "up to"
c) The standard fuel is a straight distillation cut from the crude oil stream, there is stuff in the fuel that causes smoke and injector clogging - much better to buy a premium fuel that is clean to begin with.
NOTE: I am not saying that there is anything wrong with normal diesel - but because it comes direct from crude oil - it has some naturally occurring non-optimal components (like Sulfur). Much better to synthesise a "perfect" fuel from scratch.
d) Some of the retailers are suggesting that adding double the quantity of Millers will further improve the performance - I'd disagree with statements like that - you'd just use the additive twice as fast
2. The diesel engine physically cannot benefit from a Cetane index greater than 55 - this is a measure of auto-ignition delay (55 means is starts burning faster than 51) and current engine technology hits a brick wall at 55
Normal pump diesel or bio-diesel blends have a Cetane index of 51. Performance (synthesised) diesel has a Cetane index of 55, and there is absolutely no point in raising the Cetane index above 55.
So if you keep going with the Millers additive - don't waste your money by adding it to a performance diesel - increasing the Cetane index to 59 will make absolutely no difference.
And on the subject of performance diesels, I've just driven a slightly modified version of my standard E-320 CDI - the Brabus D6 with 295 bhp (up 60 bhp) and 600 NM torque - and it was reasonably quick. And it's a Mercedes approved re-map that doesn't affect the Euro IV+ rating. Awfully tempted.
Robert
Hi,
I agree with all that Rob says, but the Millers additive is chaeper than the top grade diesel fuels. Its about
I agree with all that Rob says, but the Millers additive is chaeper than the top grade diesel fuels. Its about
Hi guys,
Pleased you've found out that the Millers Sport 4 is cheaper for you - just make sure you accurately dose it into the fuel tank otherwise you will easily waste money. An accuracy of 10% is acceptable - if you put 40 litres in the tank, then between 40 and 44 ml of additive should be added - but don't be too enthusiastic and over-dose
If you don't have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ classified diesel engine then you might like to use of the other additives (Millers make similar products for Euro II and earlier engines) - the Millers Sport 4 is specifically for Euro IV engines, and these can benefit the most from this additive.
Just remember that mixing normal pump diesel with an additive isn't the same as using one of the new synthesised performance diesel fuels - the base fuel is very different.
If it works for you, then great.
Robert
Pleased you've found out that the Millers Sport 4 is cheaper for you - just make sure you accurately dose it into the fuel tank otherwise you will easily waste money. An accuracy of 10% is acceptable - if you put 40 litres in the tank, then between 40 and 44 ml of additive should be added - but don't be too enthusiastic and over-dose
If you don't have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ classified diesel engine then you might like to use of the other additives (Millers make similar products for Euro II and earlier engines) - the Millers Sport 4 is specifically for Euro IV engines, and these can benefit the most from this additive.
Just remember that mixing normal pump diesel with an additive isn't the same as using one of the new synthesised performance diesel fuels - the base fuel is very different.
If it works for you, then great.
Robert
I have been ready this thread with interest and wonder if one of you with experience in these matters can advise me please:
I have just bought a new Seat Toledo 2.0Tdi DSG which will be used solo and towing. I intend to have it serviced as per the manufacturers guidelines so ........
is it better to do a few thousand miles before using additive such as Millers or is it best to use it from day one ??
Thanks
Steve
I have just bought a new Seat Toledo 2.0Tdi DSG which will be used solo and towing. I intend to have it serviced as per the manufacturers guidelines so ........
is it better to do a few thousand miles before using additive such as Millers or is it best to use it from day one ??
Thanks
Steve
Steve,
Oil additive or fuel additive?
If oil - there's no need - fully synthetic (PAO) oil has a very comprehensive additive pack - as you'll find out (price) when you buy a litre for top-up
If the SEAT has a diesel particulate filter / oxidation catalyst then you'll need to buy exactly the right oil - you can't skimp on this and buy a cheaper grade.
If fuel additive - then I'd consider buying one of the new premium diesel fuels from now - clean fuel with an already excellent additive pack direct from the refinery in a clean (new) engine is the best approach.
Relatively dirty (normal pump) diesel plus a fuel additive / cleaner (to clean the dirty combustion products) is not optimal.
Robert
Oil additive or fuel additive?
If oil - there's no need - fully synthetic (PAO) oil has a very comprehensive additive pack - as you'll find out (price) when you buy a litre for top-up
If the SEAT has a diesel particulate filter / oxidation catalyst then you'll need to buy exactly the right oil - you can't skimp on this and buy a cheaper grade.
If fuel additive - then I'd consider buying one of the new premium diesel fuels from now - clean fuel with an already excellent additive pack direct from the refinery in a clean (new) engine is the best approach.
Relatively dirty (normal pump) diesel plus a fuel additive / cleaner (to clean the dirty combustion products) is not optimal.
Robert
Meister, your engine is basically the same as mine but 100cc bigger. Seat are as you probably know owned by VW and your engine is no different than the one fitted to all VW group cars including skoda and audi.
As you can see from my coments my 1.9 tdi has benefited greatly from using millers diesel sport 4 and you too will see a huge difference.
I fully understand what Rob is saying and if you are able to get this new fuel it may be worth a try, unfortunately for me the nearest outlet is some 10 miles away so unless i am passing it would be false economy and as i have said the millers works out at less than half the cost.
Now then Millers where's my commision ?.
As you can see from my coments my 1.9 tdi has benefited greatly from using millers diesel sport 4 and you too will see a huge difference.
I fully understand what Rob is saying and if you are able to get this new fuel it may be worth a try, unfortunately for me the nearest outlet is some 10 miles away so unless i am passing it would be false economy and as i have said the millers works out at less than half the cost.
Now then Millers where's my commision ?.
Hi Icemaker,
Thanks for that. I understand about the VW group engine being the same one as used in VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda as I did quite a bit a research before buying the car.
My question is really ............ is it better to get some miles on a NEW engine before using fuel additives so that it gets well bedded in (if that makes sense)? I will be using "normal" diesel.
I intend to have a "running in" period of 1000 miles as Seat recommend 1500 kilometres (932 miles).
Steve
Thanks for that. I understand about the VW group engine being the same one as used in VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda as I did quite a bit a research before buying the car.
My question is really ............ is it better to get some miles on a NEW engine before using fuel additives so that it gets well bedded in (if that makes sense)? I will be using "normal" diesel.
I intend to have a "running in" period of 1000 miles as Seat recommend 1500 kilometres (932 miles).
Steve
Hi,
Slight disagreement over the differentiation between the outgoing 1.9 TDI engine and the new 2.0 TDI
The 1.9 TDI belongs to an earlier generation and has reached the end of it's development life - successive models going from 90 bhp to 150 bhp over 10 years - but it wasn't going to meet the emission requirements for Euro IV+
The new 2.0 TDI in 140 or 170 PS format should meet future emission requirements - for a few years at least - and will respond better to the new performance fuels.
Robert
Slight disagreement over the differentiation between the outgoing 1.9 TDI engine and the new 2.0 TDI
The 1.9 TDI belongs to an earlier generation and has reached the end of it's development life - successive models going from 90 bhp to 150 bhp over 10 years - but it wasn't going to meet the emission requirements for Euro IV+
The new 2.0 TDI in 140 or 170 PS format should meet future emission requirements - for a few years at least - and will respond better to the new performance fuels.
Robert
Meister, i would use the additive straight away as its better tp keep a new engine clean rather than have to clean it up later, only thing is if you use it from day one you will not know how much better the engine is with millers as you wont have experianced the engine without it.
i did not use this product untill about 2 month ago so i have seen a big benefit with my car that has now done 17000 miles which is why i recomend the product.
We bought our car from a dealer who was going bust, i made a silly offer of
i did not use this product untill about 2 month ago so i have seen a big benefit with my car that has now done 17000 miles which is why i recomend the product.
We bought our car from a dealer who was going bust, i made a silly offer of
rob_jax, How can I tell wheather I have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ engine?
If mine is not in this class would you still recomend the performance fuel?
If mine is not in this class would you still recomend the performance fuel?
Hi Clive,
Quote "How can I tell whether I have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ engine?"
If you speak very nicely, it might just tell you
Failing that a look in the drivers handbook - technical section - should tell you the emission standard that the engine complies with.
Roughly speaking:
Euro V - this is restricted to the Mercedes Benz E320 BlueTec CDI engine - the cleanest diesel in the world
Euro IV+ is a Euro IV engine with DPF (particulate filter) and includes a number of car engines produced in the past 2 years - some Peugeot, Opel, Ford, VW Audi, BMW and Mercedes engines (excluding the already mentioned BlueTec) and any I've forgotten
For instance the VW / Audi / Skoda / SEAT 170 PS engine is Euro IV+, whereas the mechanically identical 140 PS engine is Euro IV (no filter)
Euro IV - the current standard for new diesel engined cars - 2005 onwards
Euro III - most diesel engined cars sold between 2001 and 2005 should be Euro III compliant
Euro II - predates 2001 but some Far Eastern imports may run later
So will performance fuel work in a pre-Euro IV engine?
Well yes, but you won't achieve all of the full benefits:
a) smoke reduction will still be 50% to 75% (depending how smoky the car was before) - and this will work perfectly in even the oldest engine
b) fuel economy will show intermediate gains - my previous MB 270 CDI was Euro III compliant and I saw a 2.5% to 3% improvement in fuel consumption, whereas my E320 CDI (Euro IV+) achieves 5% better consumption on the premium diesel fuel
c) power increase - probably you'll see some improvement - but nothing to write home about - the pre Euro IV engines have limited (or none at all) self tune capability
It's worth a try - especially if you are going to Europe on vacation because the performance fuels are widely available, and diesel is that bit cheaper (just be glad you don't need to pay the Dutch or German equivalent of road fund licence)
And the additive pack in these fuels will really help clean the engine of accumulated crud.
Robert
if you try it, tell us how you get on - or if you try the Millers Sport Diesel fuel additive - remember to buy the right one for your engine (again Euro IV or not) - I understand that UK prices make this a cheaper alternative to the new fuels (although ultimately not as good)
Quote "How can I tell whether I have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ engine?"
If you speak very nicely, it might just tell you
Failing that a look in the drivers handbook - technical section - should tell you the emission standard that the engine complies with.Roughly speaking:
Euro V - this is restricted to the Mercedes Benz E320 BlueTec CDI engine - the cleanest diesel in the world
Euro IV+ is a Euro IV engine with DPF (particulate filter) and includes a number of car engines produced in the past 2 years - some Peugeot, Opel, Ford, VW Audi, BMW and Mercedes engines (excluding the already mentioned BlueTec) and any I've forgotten
For instance the VW / Audi / Skoda / SEAT 170 PS engine is Euro IV+, whereas the mechanically identical 140 PS engine is Euro IV (no filter)
Euro IV - the current standard for new diesel engined cars - 2005 onwards
Euro III - most diesel engined cars sold between 2001 and 2005 should be Euro III compliant
Euro II - predates 2001 but some Far Eastern imports may run later
So will performance fuel work in a pre-Euro IV engine?
Well yes, but you won't achieve all of the full benefits:
a) smoke reduction will still be 50% to 75% (depending how smoky the car was before) - and this will work perfectly in even the oldest engine
b) fuel economy will show intermediate gains - my previous MB 270 CDI was Euro III compliant and I saw a 2.5% to 3% improvement in fuel consumption, whereas my E320 CDI (Euro IV+) achieves 5% better consumption on the premium diesel fuel
c) power increase - probably you'll see some improvement - but nothing to write home about - the pre Euro IV engines have limited (or none at all) self tune capability
It's worth a try - especially if you are going to Europe on vacation because the performance fuels are widely available, and diesel is that bit cheaper (just be glad you don't need to pay the Dutch or German equivalent of road fund licence)
And the additive pack in these fuels will really help clean the engine of accumulated crud.
Robert
if you try it, tell us how you get on - or if you try the Millers Sport Diesel fuel additive - remember to buy the right one for your engine (again Euro IV or not) - I understand that UK prices make this a cheaper alternative to the new fuels (although ultimately not as good)
After following these posts i decided to try the Millers Sport4 in my 2000 Peugeot 406 Hdi 110.After about 100 miles the car is no more quiet, does'nt seem any nippier and never was smokey.On Sunday we did a normal run to our local caravan dealers of about 60 miles round trip.I always set the trip and the normal mpg for this run is about 55/56.This week the computer tells me i averaged 61.5 mpg which is the best i have ever achieved.Up to now i'me impressed.Hi Clive,
Quote "How can I tell whether I have a Euro IV or Euro IV+ engine?"
If you speak very nicely, it might just tell you
Roughly speaking:
Euro V - this is restricted to the Mercedes Benz E320 BlueTec CDI engine - the cleanest diesel in the world
Euro IV+ is a Euro IV engine with DPF (particulate filter) and includes a number of car engines produced in the past 2 years - some Peugeot, Opel, Ford, VW Audi, BMW and Mercedes engines (excluding the already mentioned BlueTec) and any I've forgotten
For instance the VW / Audi / Skoda / SEAT 170 PS engine is Euro IV+, whereas the mechanically identical 140 PS engine is Euro IV (no filter)
Euro IV - the current standard for new diesel engined cars - 2005 onwards
Euro III - most diesel engined cars sold between 2001 and 2005 should be Euro III compliant
Euro II - predates 2001 but some Far Eastern imports may run later
So will performance fuel work in a pre-Euro IV engine?
Well yes, but you won't achieve all of the full benefits:
a) smoke reduction will still be 50% to 75% (depending how smoky the car was before) - and this will work perfectly in even the oldest engine
b) fuel economy will show intermediate gains - my previous MB 270 CDI was Euro III compliant and I saw a 2.5% to 3% improvement in fuel consumption, whereas my E320 CDI (Euro IV+) achieves 5% better consumption on the premium diesel fuel
c) power increase - probably you'll see some improvement - but nothing to write home about - the pre Euro IV engines have limited (or none at all) self tune capability
It's worth a try - especially if you are going to Europe on vacation because the performance fuels are widely available, and diesel is that bit cheaper (just be glad you don't need to pay the Dutch or German equivalent of road fund licence)
And the additive pack in these fuels will really help clean the engine of accumulated crud.
Robert
if you try it, tell us how you get on - or if you try the Millers Sport Diesel fuel additive - remember to buy the right one for your engine (again Euro IV or not) - I understand that UK prices make this a cheaper alternative to the new fuels (although ultimately not as good)
Steve.
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