I have a 2006 sterling with a freelander tow unit but when i hitch up to tow my reversing lights work but nothing nothing else in the caravan works ie toilet and fridge have all the usual checks fusses all appear to be fine.
Bryan.
Bryan.
fridge not working whilst travelling
- Thread starter Bryan_5064490
- Start date
Have you got the 'rocker' switch set correctly. Van/Car/middle which do you use?
On my Abbey I have to have the car engine 'running' for fridge to work. For the Toilet try pulling out the grey plug when attached to car - stopped of course. I assume your lights etc. are all OK. Check on your 'electronics board' that a switch has not tripped to off - if it has - then reset.
Report back if still nothing works with more details.
On my Abbey I have to have the car engine 'running' for fridge to work. For the Toilet try pulling out the grey plug when attached to car - stopped of course. I assume your lights etc. are all OK. Check on your 'electronics board' that a switch has not tripped to off - if it has - then reset.
Report back if still nothing works with more details.
Damian
Moderator
Bryan, with the 12S lead connected the only things which will work are the battery charging circuit for the leisure battery and the fridge(when 12v source is selected), but ONLY when the engine is running.
All other 12v appliances are switched off by the habitation relay.
All other 12v appliances are switched off by the habitation relay.
Everyone
I posted the same issue earlier this year, the entire system worked OK except the 12v whilst travelling. It took a year to figure out but turned out to be a poor quality relay in the car and maybe a voltage drop problem from front to rear of the car. Basically the problem was not enough power to switch the relay (running the fridge) when the car itself was consuming a lot of power. In my case (a Volvo V70) running car lights, heater fan, and perhaps one other item was enough to drop the voltage well below 14v at the back of the car causing the relay to switch off.
Of course this was extremely difficult to detect stationary as you don't think to turn on accessories when testing power. So first lesson is to check the car's 12v output at say 15000 revs and with several items running on the car, especially motors and main lights. At 15000 revs plus you should have 14v or more going to the caravan.
Buy or insist on a good quality relay, one which comes on at high power as normal, i.e. when the engine is running (not sure what the power should be but at least 13.8 plus), but which stays on at lower volts typically down to 13.5v. That then compensates for variations in power output from the car and protects the car battery.
Bryan
If other suggestions so far have not solved you query (they are certainly the first checks), check the available power from the car at the relay and the state of power with different engine rev/power demands. If you are not getting 14v or more then you may have the same problem I did.
Alan
ps my G&T's and beers are now back to normal (needed before the awning goes up)
I posted the same issue earlier this year, the entire system worked OK except the 12v whilst travelling. It took a year to figure out but turned out to be a poor quality relay in the car and maybe a voltage drop problem from front to rear of the car. Basically the problem was not enough power to switch the relay (running the fridge) when the car itself was consuming a lot of power. In my case (a Volvo V70) running car lights, heater fan, and perhaps one other item was enough to drop the voltage well below 14v at the back of the car causing the relay to switch off.
Of course this was extremely difficult to detect stationary as you don't think to turn on accessories when testing power. So first lesson is to check the car's 12v output at say 15000 revs and with several items running on the car, especially motors and main lights. At 15000 revs plus you should have 14v or more going to the caravan.
Buy or insist on a good quality relay, one which comes on at high power as normal, i.e. when the engine is running (not sure what the power should be but at least 13.8 plus), but which stays on at lower volts typically down to 13.5v. That then compensates for variations in power output from the car and protects the car battery.
Bryan
If other suggestions so far have not solved you query (they are certainly the first checks), check the available power from the car at the relay and the state of power with different engine rev/power demands. If you are not getting 14v or more then you may have the same problem I did.
Alan
ps my G&T's and beers are now back to normal (needed before the awning goes up)
CORRECTION - CORRECTION, my V70 is a T5 but not with a F1 engine!!!
The engine revs to test 12v output should be 1500 not 15000.
Oops
Alan
The engine revs to test 12v output should be 1500 not 15000.
Oops
Alan
I realise I'm talking to myself. But since my first reply, I've been thinking of my 12 months of fridge hell investigation. Especially as the car mechanic blamed the caravan and the caravan dealer blamed the car!
As long as the fridge works OK normally and no fault is suspected with the fridge (ie a problem with power in other modes) then power supply from the car will almost certainly be the problem. I mentioned my experience above but there are many more causes in the car itself:
- loose connections
- supply wire too small
- earth wire too small
- only one earth connected (there are two earths on the caravan side of the white S connection). In my car the electrics had been fitted with the two earths connected into one wire of the same size before reaching the earthing point - idiots! There are two earths for a reason - two heavy power users, fridge and charger.
- Wires too long, ie too much power loss with excess wire legths.
Basically, the wiring should be in top condition, no loose ends, no straggling wires, all neat and tidy with tight terminals. Finally make sure all is neat and tidy and clean at the plug and socket - the whole point is to minimise power loss from the alternator to the relay and ultimately to the fridge.
and finally, make sure the fridge is switched to 12v and the caravan 12v system is switched correctly - different caravans require different switching, and make sure the fridge is pre-cooled on mains before leaving - 12v is not designed to chill from ambient temperature.
Alan
As long as the fridge works OK normally and no fault is suspected with the fridge (ie a problem with power in other modes) then power supply from the car will almost certainly be the problem. I mentioned my experience above but there are many more causes in the car itself:
- loose connections
- supply wire too small
- earth wire too small
- only one earth connected (there are two earths on the caravan side of the white S connection). In my car the electrics had been fitted with the two earths connected into one wire of the same size before reaching the earthing point - idiots! There are two earths for a reason - two heavy power users, fridge and charger.
- Wires too long, ie too much power loss with excess wire legths.
Basically, the wiring should be in top condition, no loose ends, no straggling wires, all neat and tidy with tight terminals. Finally make sure all is neat and tidy and clean at the plug and socket - the whole point is to minimise power loss from the alternator to the relay and ultimately to the fridge.
and finally, make sure the fridge is switched to 12v and the caravan 12v system is switched correctly - different caravans require different switching, and make sure the fridge is pre-cooled on mains before leaving - 12v is not designed to chill from ambient temperature.
Alan
Bryan,
I had the same problem on my 2005 Ace. The fault developed from one day to the next. After a fair bit of investigating, it turned out to be a faulty circuit board in the fridge - this was sorted out under warranty.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Herv
I had the same problem on my 2005 Ace. The fault developed from one day to the next. After a fair bit of investigating, it turned out to be a faulty circuit board in the fridge - this was sorted out under warranty.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Herv
Unless your sitting in the van drinking cold beer from the fridge when its on the motorway how do you know its not working?? I have caravaned for many years and have never bothered with this and find that a 3- 4 hour journey makes no difference, the secret is to fully stock the fridge with cold/ frozen stuff before you start, the 12v system will at best only try to keep things cool and most certainly will not cool hot beer etc.
Hugh
Just caught up with this after a short break.
My problem is gettinmg the G&Ts, ice and beers to France - 12 hr journey times, minimum, and the temperature and therefore the need goes up!
Alan
Just caught up with this after a short break.
My problem is gettinmg the G&Ts, ice and beers to France - 12 hr journey times, minimum, and the temperature and therefore the need goes up!
Alan
Hi
I'm sure I read somewhere in the manual that the rocker switch has to be in the 'in-between' setting for the fridge to work whilst driving....
Or was it a dream....
Mac
I'm sure I read somewhere in the manual that the rocker switch has to be in the 'in-between' setting for the fridge to work whilst driving....
Or was it a dream....
Mac
Different vans and fridges work on different switching. Check manuals to make sure the caravan relays are on whilst hooked up and the fridge switch is correctly positioned. Best to check the fridge is actually working with the engine running before setting off.
In my 12 months of 'fridge hell' I got into the habit of checking the fridge on start up and stopping - sent my wife mad with my moaning about it!
Alan
In my 12 months of 'fridge hell' I got into the habit of checking the fridge on start up and stopping - sent my wife mad with my moaning about it!
Alan
I had the same problem on my 6 month old van. I did the basic checks on the car and measured the 12 volts through to the fridge fuse, so I thought the fridge was faulty. Took the van to the dealer, then I got a phone call saying that the center earth pin on the 12S plug had overheated. They put a new plug on, I put a new socket on the car and now all is well. The car socket was all melted arround the center pin. Apparently this is very common (see other forums) I have replaced the socket with a type that has nikel plated pins (about 50p more). The brass pins corrode and the male pins compress so you get a high resistance joint. This will pass volts, but try to pass 10 Amps for the fridge- and it won't. The long term solution is the 13 pin continental arrangemet, the continental way does seem better than the British way.
Agree with Chris on that. There are so many areas which can upset the correct working of the fridge on 12v that you have to start at the car and work back checking absolutely everything, not such a big thing if you are mindful of each problem area; ALL connections, fuses, cables - including the earth (the current has to return!). Another issue I had was with the dedicated 12v fridge relay in the caravan - because of 12 months of the car relay 'cycling', the caravan relay had given up.
You must have an electrical tester to do all this and monitor power levels at each step to eliminate possible problems.
Alan
You must have an electrical tester to do all this and monitor power levels at each step to eliminate possible problems.
Alan
I fitted an ammeter to the 12V feed from the car. I can now see if there is at least 8A when on the move.
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