Handbrake engaging

Mar 1, 2020
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We have stayed on a couple of sites recently where there has been a slope from side to side so have had to use the levelling ramps. I tend to use the mover and go forward to level the van. If I go backwards instead and level the van should I go forward a short distance to fully engage the handbrake.. I have searched and seem unable to get a definitive answer as to whether the handbrake will engage properly if the van is moved backwards. It seems fine when I use the mover to get the van into position in my garden going backwards.
 
Jun 16, 2020
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Although pulling a van up a ramp might be the easiest method. The handbrake will not hold as the brakes will not operate due to the overrun feature. You will therefore need to rely on chocking the wheel. But when reversing up the ramp and applying the brake when the correct height is achieved, the bake should hold. Provided of course that it is adjusted correctly. A chock should be used as well to make sure.

John
 
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Mar 1, 2020
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Apologies for labouring the point but I'm still not entirely clear about this. I am talking about levelling the van using the mover not the car. I understand how the override system operates but when using the mover the hitch does not feature. If I go forwards up the ramp, or backwards, find the correct level. and apply the handbrake I assume it will work. Surely it has nothing to do with the override as it is being engaged manually. As I said before I chock both wheels.
My original post was maybe not expressed as well as it should have been.
 
Jun 16, 2020
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Apologies for labouring the point but I'm still not entirely clear about this. I am talking about levelling the van using the mover not the car. I understand how the override system operates but when using the mover the hitch does not feature. If I go forwards up the ramp, or backwards, find the correct level. and apply the handbrake I assume it will work. Surely it has nothing to do with the override as it is being engaged manually. As I said before I chock both wheels.
My original post was maybe not expressed as well as it should have been.

It has always been my assumption, though I could easily be wrong, (again). That the wheels will revolve backwards for a given distance before the handbrake takes effect. Regardless of the position of the overrun mechanism. If I am right. It makes no difference if you are moving with the car or the mover.

I wait to be corrected.

When researching I found this. Not of direct use I could find in answering Ukeman’s question. But informative nevertheless.

John
 

Damian

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Mar 14, 2005
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The auto reverse will only activate when the brake shoes are in contact with the drum, so on level ground you can spend all day pushing and pulling the van and the auto reverse will not activate.

Towing up a ramp will not activate the mechanism, but if the handbrake is applied and the hitch disengaged, then the van will roll back until the auto reverse activates and the now leading shoe drops into place.
 

Damian

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Also why I go up any ramp backwards.

That can have its own problems too.
Pushing the van backwards with the car will activate the reverse mechanism for a short time, which is why you may feel a hesitancy when you start reversing and the hitch has compressed.
Then when you apply the handbrake at the top of the ramp and remove the car, the van well may roll forward until the mechanism re-sets itself.

It is situations like this when a mover becomes the best option for the job, and saves clutches from burning out.
 
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That can have its own problems too.
Pushing the van backwards with the car will activate the reverse mechanism for a short time, which is why you may feel a hesitancy when you start reversing and the hitch has compressed.
Then when you apply the handbrake at the top of the ramp and remove the car, the van well may roll forward until the mechanism re-sets itself.

It is situations like this when a mover becomes the best option for the job, and saves clutches from burning out.

I would normally use the mover. But in the past I have had to use the car very occasionally due to poor ground and/or steepness. But we use more friendly sites nowadays.

John
 
Mar 1, 2020
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Thanks for all the replies. Unless I have misunderstood, and that's not out of the question, whether I go backwards or forwards up the levelling ramp using the mover I need to go beyond level and then move the van back down the ramp slightly to ensure the handbrake is engaged having applied it at the highest point? I always do this anyway because I put the chock in place and then drop down onto it so I know it is holding. Only then do I disengage the mover.
 
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Nov 11, 2009
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In the July issue of C&CC magazine the article on levelling says it’s best to pull the caravan up the ramp. That way the “handbrake should bite more quickly.” No wonder newbies, and some oldies become confused.

But there is also a section on the Pitch Perfect two axis LED levelling device. But the price detailed at £20 is baloney. It’s more like £70 and fitted by agents such as Caravan Medic.

http://www.fls-cara-tech.co.uk/pitch-perfect-levelling-systems
 
Jul 18, 2017
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That can have its own problems too.
Pushing the van backwards with the car will activate the reverse mechanism for a short time, which is why you may feel a hesitancy when you start reversing and the hitch has compressed.
Then when you apply the handbrake at the top of the ramp and remove the car, the van well may roll forward until the mechanism re-sets itself.
Probably why it is wise to chock the wheels before uncoupling the car?
 

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