I did one of these two years ago . It was leaking from a split fitting. After removing it and fitting a replacement. I tried to remove the tap heads , first by trying to get the blue centre out by prying it out - no chance, then by melting the blue centre to reveal the screw underneath - wasn't one there . then because the unit was gash I cut the head off -I sawed down vertically to cut it half to reveal it has a plastic thread (left hand) holding it onto the valve seat and lip on the outer rim holding it on . So with the hot tap I turned it clockwise and it unscrewed ( it winds it off the lip holding it onto the casing) .To reveal the microswitch. So the next one I came across I could disassemble it no problem and used the switch mechanism from the knackered one to replace a faulty one (snapped spring) . To replace it you wind it back in and then press down on the head and it clips into place ,but beware, there is a knack to reassembling it correctly. There is a hexagon insert in the tap head , which will pull out of the head ( wind the head slightly onto valve seat assy to remove it) Insert the tap seat assy with the white lever in the slot which presses onto the switch and turn clockwise until you hear the switch click( this is the closed position of the valve seat). Then look at the whole assembly with the outlet at 6 o'clock , you will see two tabs on the rim of the black casing one at 10 0'clock and one at 2 o'clock. Conversely on the tap head there is a tab, this tab needs to be fitted just anticlockwise to the 10 o'clock tab, so that when turned anticlockwise it will turn anticlockwise from 10 to 2 o'clock which is enough to open the tap.Strangely the switch mechanism is the same as the switch mechanism in a thetford C250 toilet ( the one with the big blue button and a mechanical switch rather than a pcb )