Not always true.
Most new built houses here in Scotland are timber frame and use Drywall Lining. The internal timber frame walls are still refered to as a stud wall. Internal spacing of the studs is in the region of 60cm and sods law says the stud is not always in the place where you want a fixing.
In some instances when I have something heavy to fix i.e some floating glass shelves I've used the drywall screw fixings but also found a convenient stud or two to add an additional wood screw directly into the stud.
See my previous post re types of wall. Studs can be either timber OR metal. Or no stud at all.
If studs exist. Fixing to them is stronger and more desirable than using plasterboard fittings (cavity fixings). But a different screw will be needed depending on the type of stud. Wood, or self tapper.
John
I could never really understand why timber framed houses in England were almost impossible to buy with a mortgage until relatively recently. Yet timber frame has been used successfully in Scotland for far longer. I guess that the early ones in England were poor quality construction, which improved when the house builders let their staff move on to caravan manufacturing.
In the '80s I recall several building firms, including the one which buzzed around the skies in a helicopter, started building timber framed houses. The ones we came across, which friends had, were a right dogs breakfast. I think mostly because the techniques were not fully understood here in the UK despite being used on the continent for many years.
I think also there was a reluctance by buyers who weren't getting the traditional bricks and mortar.
House insurance also used to be a problem but doesn't appear so anymore from what I can tell.
At the risk of getting told off for deviating too much from the original topic (slaps self on wrist
) there are a lot of trees in Scotland but the story is that we planted the wrong sort and it can't be used for house building, so much of what's needed is imported.When we built we had the option of using Scottish Timer of the foreign stuff. The Scottish stuff was more expensive so guess what we used.
I can remember working on a site run by a Scottish company, Weir construction. Not small. 1,100 timber framed council houses. Weir claimed that the ‘invented’ timber framed buildings in 1956. I don’t thing the Scandinavians and Canadians would agree. They pobably meant a mass produced system, larglely factory built, which just met the minimum reguarity standards at that time.
Private timber framed buildings tend to be built to a much much higher standard.
John
Private timber framed buildings tend to be built to a much much higher standard.
John
Not so. Metal frame partitions have been around a long time but never fully caught on. Many don't like them, extremely flimsy for domestic use. Industrially their are heavier options. Metal frame does not work well for small developments as a variety of sections are needed. Timber frames are easier options. Better understood and less specialist.
The construction of partition walls tends to be driven by local trends, builders or designers preference, builders or sub contractors ability, cost at that time. Therefore there are many regional differences.
John
Bought the above, but they are far too small. Maybe it should be a larger M size?
The M4 is the 4mm head 38 mm. Total length. Most plaster board is 12.5 mm. Your bracket will be 2mm or less. The 38 mm should be sufficient providing you have compressed them into their final umbrella shape.You really need to use the compression tool with these fixings and underside drill the hole by 0.5mm.
Hollow Wall Anchor Setting Tool - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Hollow wall anchor setting. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
The issue is that the TV mounting bracket holes are too large for the screw head . It looks as if the hole is about 5-6mm wide so maybe M8 is required?.The M4 is the 4mm head 38 mm. Total length. Most plaster board is 12.5 mm. Your bracket will be 2mm or less. The 38 mm should be sufficient providing you have compressed them into their final umbrella shape.You really need to use the compression tool with these fixings and underside drill the hole by 0.5mm.
Hollow Wall Anchor Setting Tool - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Hollow wall anchor setting. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com
The M4 is the 4mm head 38 mm. Total length. Most plaster board is 12.5 mm. Your bracket will be 2mm or less. The 38 mm should be sufficient providing you have compressed them into their final umbrella shape.You really need to use the compression tool with these fixings and underside drill the hole by 0.5mm.
Hollow Wall Anchor Setting Tool - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Hollow wall anchor setting. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
I a;ppreciate all the advice and learning as I go along, but I am sorry as you have lost me as never heard of a setting tool?
Not sure if this is maybe what I should buy? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bullfix-Kit-Plasterboard-Television-Insulated/dp/B09R21688L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LOVLCXMMH26V&keywords=plasterboard+cavity+wall+fixing+tv+mount&qid=1666383830&s=diy&sprefix=lasterboard+cavity+wall+fixingtv+mount,diy,75&sr=1-3
Here is a picture of bracket on brick wall.
Here is a picture of bracket on brick wall.
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Was shown in the Amazon post in #4I a;ppreciate all the advice and learning as I go along, but I am sorry as you have lost me as never heard of a setting tool?
They will be good but only if there is a cavity behind where you need to put them. It would still be better to make the main fittings go into a stud (if possible), and use these as supplementary.
Don't force the drill bit as it might burst the inner surface. You need a clean cut for maximum strength.
John
My experience of stud wall fittings that go into plasterboard is that they can be pretty dodgy. It’s very easy for them to loosen, particularly if there is weight involved. Whatever the spacing of any underlying stud work, and assuming it doesn’t match that the tv bracket, it should be possible to get a strong and easy mounting point using a 12mm or thicker plywood cut to size to hide behind the tv. Paint it as wall if feeling anal at the time. Attach it to any identified studs and noggins with at least 4 screws. Then screw bracket to plywood using self tappers. Would give a solid job. I did this with a piece of oak board in my caravan to attach a tv bracket to a wall, the oak was sikaflexed to the wall no screws. Issue being it would never come off again that way without taking down half the house with it, strength overkill applies. Screws means you can remove and fill the holes to revert to no tv. I find studs by tapping then then knocking in a thin nail to prove location is wood.
Steve
Steve
Spot on Steve. Where it is impossible to find a stud using your system still works. It spreads the load across the plaster board and strengthens the section.
Buckmans bracket is not one I’d use on plaster board. One of these is better and again helps to spread the load.
Buckmans bracket is not one I’d use on plaster board. One of these is better and again helps to spread the load.
Looking at the YouTube film in #1. I think that is the bracket intended to be used, and best suited for a 40-inch screen. The plywood idea would work and achieve good strength. but is not necessary. If fitted correctly. Those of us who have done such jobs before, particularly if they have knowledge of the various wall constructions, would have no issues. But for someone with no experience, what others find easy is not necessarily so.
John
John
Those type of brackets come in a variety of sizes and weight loads. My point was they spread the load across a larger area than Buckman’s one .Steve’s suggestion is also good practice spreading the load
Those type of brackets come in a variety of sizes and weight loads. My point was they spread the load across a larger area than Buckman’s one .Steve’s suggestion is also good practice spreading the load
I’ve no real knowledge of wall construction as I hadn’t realised there were several different types of dry wall. I’ve generally tapped the wall which quickly gives an indication of whether it’s solid blocks or dry plasterboard type. I then tap the area where I plan to mount the “ load” and then go over it with a detector to make sure I’m not in the vicinity of electrics or plumbing. Where possible I try and screw into the studs and if necessary use special to type fasteners for plasterboard walls. . In our previous house we had a 43 inch plasma Panasonic upstairs on a dry interior wall for the grandkids and it installed without any problems.
My most frustrating time though was trying to mount things on old early 18th century cottage walls. Upstairs the internal walls were horsehair and wattle type stuff. All the exterior walls were a plaster layer behind which seemed to be a rubble infill until you arrived at the outer dressed blocks of granite covered in render. A veritable nightmare to such an extent that very little was mounted on any exterior wall without first making a sizeable hole and filling with rapid drying cement.
My most frustrating time though was trying to mount things on old early 18th century cottage walls. Upstairs the internal walls were horsehair and wattle type stuff. All the exterior walls were a plaster layer behind which seemed to be a rubble infill until you arrived at the outer dressed blocks of granite covered in render. A veritable nightmare to such an extent that very little was mounted on any exterior wall without first making a sizeable hole and filling with rapid drying cement.
I was fully agreeing with you. But the way I read the thread. Buckman was already planning to use the frame type you recommended. Or did I miss the post in which Buckman stated that he was fitting something different? I was merely stating, that, for many of us more practical people, fixing a bracket would be a simple job. We need to appreciate that for others it may be a challenge.
John
I think the advantage of a spreader is often more than just distributing loads. Having a plywood board makes it just so very easy to position and attach stuff accurately. Hold metal thing in one hand, punch in a self tapper with other, no drilling, repeat...
Steve
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