Is a 16 amp EHU enough?

[Dustydog]

The new Alde combination boiler is now rated at 3kw like it's Swedish predecessor.
So if I have this full.on for heating and hot water I'll be using 13 amps, I think.
Add in the massive fridge freezer, TV, sky box, battery charger, hairdryer and electric hob hmy:
Are manufacturers taking into account that a lot of EHU s are less than 16 amp

 

[DeliDave_]

Have you changed the van ?

 

[Dustydog]

Thought about it, but no.
The Wyoming still ticks all the boxes. B)

 

[JimD1]

The 1st time we used EHU with the Lunar I didn't think this much thought & had the Alde 310 set to 3KW. As soon as SWMBO fired up the microwave the trip in the bollard blew. When on EHU we only ever use the heating on 2KW now, as it's the only way to be sure we don't repeat the experience without having to think about it every time we switch something on.

Jim

 

[NigelHutson]

For that very reason, I've got an Alde Load Sensing Monitor on order to fit to our caravan. The theory behind it is that when you arrive on site, on the control panel you set the number of Amps to correspond with the site's, for example, 10A. It then doesn't matter whether you have it set on 1,2 or 3kw, as the device senses the amount of load that the caravan is using and reduces the Alde's consumption accordingly so that it won't trip the connection. That's the theory, and hopefully it will work (I have friends who swear by it), as it stops the need to turn things off when other bits are being used, especially abroad when the norm is usually 6A. We'll see............

 

[SirRogerFFS]

Never had a problem on a 16 amp hook up but certainly did on a 10amp.I have to say at that time we had things turned that neednt be on .I found that kettle was the on knocking our trip out so now we have everything on we need on and boil the kettle on gas .I suppose a low wattage kettle would do but which one would take the longest to boil.
Sir Roger

 

[Dustydog]

That's very interesting Nigel. Never heard of it!
Do you think this piece of kit should be a standard issue on all Alde heated new caravans?
I too use a lot of 6 and 10amp EHU s.
Are the manufacturers losing sight that we are tourers not statics. hmy:

 

[NigelHutson]

I must admit that I hadn't heard of it either until very recently Dustydog, but apparently they've been available as an extre for years. I will report back when it's been fitted and used.

The problem is that more and more, the manufacturers believe that people want more electrical gadgets, so they fit them (or to steal a march on their competitors), but that puts more demand on site supplies, which in turn increased costs, and so the spiral continues. Gone are the days of two gas lamps, no electric lights, no fridges etc. halcyon days??

 

[DeliDave_]

Thought about it, but no.
The Wyoming still ticks all the boxes. B)

 

[JTQ]

I have for 7 years had the Alde 3010 with the 1,2,3 Kw elements, and have yet to trip even a 6 Amp bollard.
We just appraise what the intended load is relative to the bollards ability; so if the Alde is on full blast and we want a brew via our domestic kettle, we simply put off the Alde for the couple of minutes it takes to boil the kettle.
So, yes on limited supplies, we spend a second or so thinking about the ramifications of switching big users on.

I don't think we will be seeing domestic 60 Amp services on flexible EHU cables, serving 150 odd campsite pitches any time soon. Therefore its either invest in the Alde sensor or a second or two thinking time.

I thought Truma also do 3 Kw electrically powered heating systems.

 

[Chrisjkerr]

We've got the newer 3020 Alde system in our Cartagena and I've not really had any issues either at some lower rated EHU bollard of 10amps. I just adjust the system to suit really.

I just pulled this from the Alde FAQ page.

How much current does the heating system draw?

There are two mechanisms in the Alde Compact boilers that draw >0.1 A current from the vehicle battery. The exhaust fan venting waste gases (≈0.4 A), and the heating fluid being pumped around the circuit (≈0.2 A). So normal draw from the vehicle battery is between ≈0.2–0.6 A, including the control panel. Max draw is 1 A for approximately three seconds at system start-up.

Max draw from 230 V mains is ≈4.5 A on 1 (1 kW), ≈9 A on 2 (2.1 kW), and ≈14 A on 3 (3.2 kW).

With either boiler setting you've still got a little bit of headroom before things trip on their respective bollards.

So with a 10amp bollard running a 2kw heater on full you still should be able to use most of the other internal electrical items apart from the Kettle or Hob Hot Plate.

 

[NigelHutson]

Yes, like most folk, I've never had a problem in switching things on and off, and haven't tripped the electrics. But, after seeing the Alde device working and seeing how easy they are to fit (have fitted),it's got to be worth a look, and then it's also one less thing to think about whilst enjoying our pastime.

 

[Dustydog]

http://www.thealdecentre.co.uk/alde-3010-246-overload-monitor-protector-for-3010-compact-boiler.htmlj
Nigel.
Is this it?

 

[chrisbee1]

That's very interesting Nigel. Never heard of it!
Do you think this piece of kit should be a standard issue on all Alde heated new caravans?
I too use a lot of 6 and 10amp EHU s.
Are the manufacturers losing sight that we are tourers not statics. hmy:

They are standard on Buccaneer caravans so maybe they'll eventually be fitted to all Explorer vans.

 

[NigelHutson]

Hi Dustydog,

Yes, that's it. I've specifically ordered one for the 3020 system, but whether they're the same thing I don't know until I see it. The 3020 one isn't listed on that website.

Nigel.

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

Did I read the price right? hmy:

 

[Dustydog]

Did I read the price right? hmy:

£43.56?

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

Did I read the price right? hmy:

£43.56?

I thought I saw over £200. hmy: £43.56 seems much better. :cheer:

 

[Gafferbill]

The new Alde combination boiler is now rated at 3kw like it's Swedish predecessor.
So if I have this full.on for heating and hot water I'll be using 13 amps, I think.
Add in the massive fridge freezer, TV, sky box, battery charger, hairdryer and electric hob hmy:
Are manufacturers taking into account that a lot of EHU s are less than 16 amp

........never mind the individual bollards!

I have been on sites where the whole supply shuts down due to not coping with heavy demand in cold weather.
The bollards were rated at 16 amps but the site could not cope when every caravan tried to use that amount at once!

 

[Raywood]

Never had a problem on a 16 amp site but suspect we might have been close. We did blow the fuse on a 10 amp bollard though earlier this year and when checking the literature that came with the heater and water heater realised that on its max setting it could run at 9 amps. Reduced it to the lower setting at 3 amps and had no trouble.
It would probably be sensible for anyone setting up a new site or renewing the old system to look at a higher figure as that will probably become the norm in the future. With higher ratings though may come charging for the power used.

 

[JTQ]

I have been on sites where the whole supply shuts down due to not coping with heavy demand in cold weather.
The bollards were rated at 16 amps but the site could not cope when every caravan tried to use that amount at once!

This of course is almost always going to be the case, be it a campsite, a road, a town or the national net work; the cabling and capacity installed assumes some level of diversification in the individual user's spot loading.

Typically we see a drop in the available voltage which itself drops the power demands, but then if that is not enough it trips.