Hi. I have recently fitted a mover and have heard a pneumatic jockey wheel is recommended. I currently have a plastic/rubber coated wheel which is in poor condition and needs replaced anyway. My problem is the current wheel has a 240mm diameter and at times is close to grounding. Pneumatics seem to be available only as 260mm diameters and therefore would not be suitable when left in place during towing. Does anyone know if it is possible and straightforward to fit a pneumatic kit and remove the wheel easily during towing by replacing supplied clip with an r clip. Otherwise does anybody use a mover and a standard jockey wheel with no problems. (If replacing with a standard wheel I would like to use a wheel with a diameter of perhaps 200mm to remove any possible grounding issues.) Advice appreciated.
Jockey wheel replacement.
- Thread starter scrancat
- Start date
Yes its quite easy to do as shown in this pic
It also shows the difference in length between the longer Alko JW and a shorter one
It also shows the difference in length between the longer Alko JW and a shorter one
Now's the time to buy one. Alko are currently offering a 20% discount and free carriage on all items from their online shop.
scrancat said:
I have used the standard Heavy Duty Al_Ko jockey wheels, with
movers, since 2002, without any problems.
This wheel has a plastic core and its road surface is coated with
a rubber like softer polymer.
My home route takes it over, paving, concrete slabs, grass and the
tarmacadam road.
On site it rolls over hardstanding chippings.
I have not found a need to go back to a pneumatic wheel since
having movers and unless they have improved their reliability over
the last decade I would not wish to.
The solid type does pick up a few embedded stones but this has not
caused any problems.
Note that my mover expriences have been with the wide Heavy Duty jockey wheel not the narrow solid wheel that I could envisage would be prone to dig in soft ground.
We have a slight kerb (1in) between us and the road
With the solid tyre the wheel judders as I turn the caravan but the pneumatic one just glides smoothly over it but otherwise the solid one is OK
With the solid tyre the wheel judders as I turn the caravan but the pneumatic one just glides smoothly over it but otherwise the solid one is OK
I dont have a motor mover, but where we store our van, Im required to man-handle it to a position where I can hitch the car up to it. This is a mix of rutted grass (where its moved out onto), paving slabs (where its parked) and hard standing type stuff/hardcore (where I unhitch it and move thru 180 degrees to back it into its parking space)
The van originally came with a phneumatic wheel which had seen very better days. This got a puncture.
Bought a cheap ?maypole? complete jockey wheel assembly - this too got a puncture.
Probably both bad luck on my part. I have now reverted to solid AlKo wheel.
Ive not noticed any major differences, it is more prone to sinking in the mud, but its not so prone to getting close to running off the rim.
A friend has the wide looking solid AlKo and swears by it.
If you do buy a pneumatic, recommend you keep your original solid wheel, if it fits, in your van or car just incase you get stuck like me.
Also, as I found out, the 'get-you-home' wheel inflator foam stuff bought from the local petrol station doesnt work, it just tends to leave a trail of foam around your pitch
Cheers
Rob
The van originally came with a phneumatic wheel which had seen very better days. This got a puncture.
Bought a cheap ?maypole? complete jockey wheel assembly - this too got a puncture.
Probably both bad luck on my part. I have now reverted to solid AlKo wheel.
Ive not noticed any major differences, it is more prone to sinking in the mud, but its not so prone to getting close to running off the rim.
A friend has the wide looking solid AlKo and swears by it.
If you do buy a pneumatic, recommend you keep your original solid wheel, if it fits, in your van or car just incase you get stuck like me.
Also, as I found out, the 'get-you-home' wheel inflator foam stuff bought from the local petrol station doesnt work, it just tends to leave a trail of foam around your pitch
Cheers
Rob
- Aug 23, 2009
- 3,167
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Changed over to pneumatic when we had a gravel drive. Now we're back to brick I won't bother with pneumatic on the new van when it comes as never had any previous problems with the solid other than on the gravel drive, Constantly having to top up the air and this involves having to remove the wheel each time to fit the compressor on which is a bit of a drag.
Thanks for the replies. Found an alko heavy duty steel rimmed 200mm/50mm solid rubber tyre jockey for £37. Assuming this is ok with mover think this would be my best option as it would give me more clearance and prevent me having to remove the larger pneumatic wheel prior to towing. Also seem to see more bad than good reviews for pneumatics.Cheers.
The smaller the diameter of the Jockey wheel the greater it will be prone to "dig-in" on soft surfaces, even ironically chipping based "hard standings".
So I would be very hesitant in seeking that greater clearance at the expense of its practicality functioning as a jockey wheel, unless you know all your use will be on truly hard surfaces.
So I would be very hesitant in seeking that greater clearance at the expense of its practicality functioning as a jockey wheel, unless you know all your use will be on truly hard surfaces.
The problems i encounted with having two different pneumatic tyres was keeping the correct tyre pressure,I ended up Useing a cycle pump with a high pressure connector. The 1st one the tyre came off the rim when reversing onto a pitch with the motor movver.Managed to purchase another wheel locally, this one lasted for a few trips till i got a punture caused by the tyre when fitted nipped the inner tube, with that I reverted back to the normal solid tyre Alko model, never ever had any problems the solid tyre wheel glides over any surface.The pneumatic tyre wheel assy that I had was heavier putting more weight on the towing hitch.
Does anybody think the alko pneumatic jockey is better than cheaper alternatives and hence less prone to defects. Is it really worthwhile going pneumatic given the possible problems and bearing in mind I would have to remove and refit the wheel for each journey due to increased diameter. Is wheel on/off not a bit awkward and time consuming? Help! Thought this would be an easy choice! Exciting and controversial debate regarding jw's!
hi' the 200mm/50mm is the standard jockey wheel fitted to our bailey although it has a plastic rim, it has been on the van since new and works fine on all surfaces, even after fitting a mover 3years ago, my view is if it's not broke don't fix it!! .scrancat said:
fitting a larger pnumatic wheel may make some difference over rough or boggy ground but the maintenance side of it seems too much hassle. besides if you have to remove it to get sufficient ground clearance what then protects the A frame, hitch, h/brake and linkage, in the event of the van becomming unhooked, there is nothing stopping he whole lot grinding into the ground,
just a thought!!!
colin
Please be aware that if changing to a pneumatic type jocky wheel, you will need to buy the whole assembly as the forks on the pneumatic wheel assmebly are slightly wider. If you do not do this, the sides of the wheel rub against the forks leading to a blow out.
Just a thought but...........
Is your towball height correct when the car & van are loaded ............
Caravan: 415mm =/-35mm
Car: 385mm +/-35mm
These measurements are taken on a level surface and represent the distance from the ground to either the centre of the towball or the centre of the coupling head.
towball guide pdf
Is your towball height correct when the car & van are loaded ............
Caravan: 415mm =/-35mm
Car: 385mm +/-35mm
These measurements are taken on a level surface and represent the distance from the ground to either the centre of the towball or the centre of the coupling head.
towball guide pdf
Surfer, I have just changed from a pneumatic wheel to a solid wheel as I needed a new wheel urgently and could only get a solid wheel. I have found the solid wheel fits between the forks with no play in it so it is not always the case that the forks need to be opened or closed up.
The only problem I had was getting a new split pin. I eventually got them from Halfords
The only problem I had was getting a new split pin. I eventually got them from Halfords
Frinton Mike said:
The forks are not wider, but they are shaped differently to accommodate the wider tyre. You can fit a solid wheel to one designed for a pneumatic tyre, but not the other way round, You cannot usually fit a pneumatic tyre to one designed for a solid tyred wheel.
Steve W
Steve, thanks for correcting me, something else I did not know.
We learn something new all the time but I suppose that is the reason we log on
We learn something new all the time but I suppose that is the reason we log on
I've found the rounded profile pneumatic mauch better with a mover on gravel and indeed on grass if the grass is at all soft. My van has a relatively high nose weight and the 'shoulders' of the solid wheel tend to dig in when turning sharply.
Some pneumatic jockey wheels are the same size as those used on heavy duty sack trucks, and you may be able to find a specialist tyre dealer who will fill the wheel with a hard foam, thus retaining the rounded profile with out the risk of punctures. Also, it if very difficult to get the connector on a standard car foot pump onto the valve of some pneumatics when they are fitted into the jaws of the jockey wheel assembly.
The more serious problem is that the pneumatic usually has a larger profile than the solid and thus will not retract to the wame ground clearance, particularly when the jockey wheel is positioned in the centre of the A frame rather than at one edge. The length of the winding tube does not affect this - it's the diameter and width of the tyre which are the problem. The main cause of grounding are speed bumps - particullarly the very wide ones - when the car is back 'on the level' before the jockey wheen and it drags.
I eventually had a new fixing made up which clamps to the outside of the chassis member, and now remover the entrie jockey wheel assembly before towing. It rides in the car boot.
Some pneumatic jockey wheels are the same size as those used on heavy duty sack trucks, and you may be able to find a specialist tyre dealer who will fill the wheel with a hard foam, thus retaining the rounded profile with out the risk of punctures. Also, it if very difficult to get the connector on a standard car foot pump onto the valve of some pneumatics when they are fitted into the jaws of the jockey wheel assembly.
The more serious problem is that the pneumatic usually has a larger profile than the solid and thus will not retract to the wame ground clearance, particularly when the jockey wheel is positioned in the centre of the A frame rather than at one edge. The length of the winding tube does not affect this - it's the diameter and width of the tyre which are the problem. The main cause of grounding are speed bumps - particullarly the very wide ones - when the car is back 'on the level' before the jockey wheen and it drags.
I eventually had a new fixing made up which clamps to the outside of the chassis member, and now remover the entrie jockey wheel assembly before towing. It rides in the car boot.
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