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Making own nose weight guage

Nov 11, 2009
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It depends on how you plan to Mount it. The aim being to measure the noseweight at the hitch height that the caravan will be when hitched to the car towball.
 
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Nov 6, 2005
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You'll get a very good approximation by just putting the scales under the jockey wheel and lifting all the legs - you could do a bit of arithmetic to make it more accurate, based on the horizontal distance from hitch to jockey wheel centre and hitch to road wheel centre.
 
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Nov 11, 2009
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I tended to use a pole and scales for the first weighing. Then used my Milenco gauge to see what it reads. IE used the scales to calibrate the Milenco. After that I would there after use the Milenco at home or sometimes in site.
 
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Mar 14, 2005
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Unless a "calibrated " nose load gauge comes with a certificate of calibration and information regarding its limits of uncertainty from a recognised test house and a date for next calibration it is not "calibrated" in any meaningful way.

Tests carried out in the past have shown how inaccurate consumer grade compression spring nose load gauges can be, and in practice domestic bathroom weighing were also far from ideal, but were better than nose load gauges and more consistent over time.

Because compression spring nose load gauges by their very nature compress (shorten) when loaded unless by coincidence the load auge happens to match the tow hitched load height, the gause is not reporting the actual nose load applied to the tow vehicle.

For mechanical reasons the rate of change of applied nose load relative to the height of the trailers hitch, is not a linear relation ship, And the rate of change of applied nose vs height for a twin axle outfit is very much greater than for a single axle trailer.

To avoid the danger of trying to use a broom handle stood on the top of bathroom scales, use the caravan step and back issues of PC magazine to raise the scales to the required height to support the hitch. Always chock the road wheels and release the brakes.

Or use a hydraulic bottle jack on the top of the scales to raise the hitch to the correct height. (Don't forget to subtract the weight of the jack from the reading. - or some scales can be tare'd)
 
Nov 11, 2009
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Unless a "calibrated " nose load gauge comes with a certificate of calibration and information regarding its limits of uncertainty from a recognised test house and a date for next calibration it is not "calibrated" in any meaningful way.

Tests carried out in the past have shown how inaccurate consumer grade compression spring nose load gauges can be, and in practice domestic bathroom weighing were also far from ideal, but were better than nose load gauges and more consistent over time.

Because compression spring nose load gauges by their very nature compress (shorten) when loaded unless by coincidence the load auge happens to match the tow hitched load height, the gause is not reporting the actual nose load applied to the tow vehicle.

For mechanical reasons the rate of change of applied nose load relative to the height of the trailers hitch, is not a linear relation ship, And the rate of change of applied nose vs height for a twin axle outfit is very much greater than for a single axle trailer.

To avoid the danger of trying to use a broom handle stood on the top of bathroom scales, use the caravan step and back issues of PC magazine to raise the scales to the required height to support the hitch. Always chock the road wheels and release the brakes.

Or use a hydraulic bottle jack on the top of the scales to raise the hitch to the correct height. (Don't forget to subtract the weight of the jack from the reading. - or some scales can be tare'd)
I used the word “calibrated” loosely in describing my approach. In no way would I consider my bathroom scales an appropriate means of “calibrating” a Milenco gauge. But for my purpose the scales and Milenco readings were compared which then enabled me to thereafter use the Milenco at home, storage or if required when touring.
 
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Nov 16, 2015
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You'll get a very good approximation by just putting the scales under the jockey wheel and lifting all the legs - you could do a bit of arithmetic to make it more accurate, based on the horizontal distance from hitch to jockey wheel centre and hitch to road wheel centre.
I am sure Roger, means just lift the legs a small amount, NOT, lift them fully,
 

JTQ

May 7, 2005
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I did mean fully - but then I only measure the noseweight just before I hitch it to the car - it's the only time it's fully laden.
Don't forget to stow the winding handle before taking the reading if seeking the precision some seem to "need" to achieve ;)

Fortunately my rig can live with quite a range on noseweight, even tolerate us using up some LPG during a trip, without a reweigh and repack to come home.

In a more serious tone, getting the right towing state noseweight, that is within a tolerable range is as important at any state of being laden, not just "fully".
 
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