I have a small issue with the removeable towbar on my Landrover Discovery 3 working loose on a journey. Last weekend we got back and when I unhitched I found the towbar was able to move from side to side about an inch and a half. To say I was a little concerned is a massive understatement and I was struggling to understand why it was like this.
Anyway, looking back, since we changed the tintent for a new Elddis back in January I am getting the towball work loose and this never happened on our old Swift. Thinking about what might have been causing it, possibly the difference between the Alko and BPW chassis or hitch head, then it dawned on me, the BPW with the Winterhoff head is new and thus so are the friction pads whereas the old van was 8 years old and I had never changed the pads.
So, last night I tried out the theory and took the van out for a run. 30 miles with the friction head fully closed - result was a loose towbar. On the return journey I left the hitch head friction part unlocked (snapped down to lock the ball in the socket and didn't push down the friction setting) and the bar was still snug & tight when I got back.
So, from this I am wondering if the friction pads are too tight or if I would be better off with a ATC system instead (can't remember the BPW equivalent). I wouldn't normally worry but the bar was very loose in the socket when using it, to the point where I was worried it was close to coming out. The one saving grace is that the LR has a massive eye cast into the chassis for the breakaway cable so at least this isn't just looped over the towball.
I also spoke to a pal who tows his van with a Ford F150 and the american style towbar which has a ball bolted on. His ball comes undone if he uses the friction head despite having lock washers and doing it up to 200nm with a torque wrench. Clearly these things impart a great deal of force on the towball.
Obviously if the worst was to happen and it came adrift, aside from the immediate danger to other motorists, I imagine I'm going to have a massive fight with the 2 insurance companies who insure the van and the car.
Your thoughts please.
Dom
Anyway, looking back, since we changed the tintent for a new Elddis back in January I am getting the towball work loose and this never happened on our old Swift. Thinking about what might have been causing it, possibly the difference between the Alko and BPW chassis or hitch head, then it dawned on me, the BPW with the Winterhoff head is new and thus so are the friction pads whereas the old van was 8 years old and I had never changed the pads.
So, last night I tried out the theory and took the van out for a run. 30 miles with the friction head fully closed - result was a loose towbar. On the return journey I left the hitch head friction part unlocked (snapped down to lock the ball in the socket and didn't push down the friction setting) and the bar was still snug & tight when I got back.
So, from this I am wondering if the friction pads are too tight or if I would be better off with a ATC system instead (can't remember the BPW equivalent). I wouldn't normally worry but the bar was very loose in the socket when using it, to the point where I was worried it was close to coming out. The one saving grace is that the LR has a massive eye cast into the chassis for the breakaway cable so at least this isn't just looped over the towball.
I also spoke to a pal who tows his van with a Ford F150 and the american style towbar which has a ball bolted on. His ball comes undone if he uses the friction head despite having lock washers and doing it up to 200nm with a torque wrench. Clearly these things impart a great deal of force on the towball.
Obviously if the worst was to happen and it came adrift, aside from the immediate danger to other motorists, I imagine I'm going to have a massive fight with the 2 insurance companies who insure the van and the car.
Your thoughts please.
Dom