I still have no 12v supply to 3 way fridge (Dometic RM7291L , Manually Selector for GAS/240v/12v).
I posted an earlier thread re this but got nowhere, so I will start again.
* Voltage to car fridge 12S is 13.8v (car running).
*Basic 5 pin relay where cables enter the caravan seemed to be working (was clicking) but I replaced anyway.
*When first switching fridge power source to 12v, Green 12v selected indicator light comes on but after 4 seconds starts flashing in time to the relay.
*As some suggested, I raised the revs on the car, but it made no difference, light still flashing (although light was previously always steady on, even at car idle speed).
*12v element seems ok as resistance is 1.4 ohms.
I am thinking that it is a fault in the main circuit board behind the fridges main top facia.
Gas and 240v work fine.
So, the big question is ...
Rather than pay out for a circuit board, would it be ok to run 12v direct from the relay at the front of the van directly to the 12v element (bypassing all the fridge wiring)?
I would also put a 12v switch and fuse in line.
This would only be active if the car was running as now.
Any thoughts
Thanks
I posted an earlier thread re this but got nowhere, so I will start again.
* Voltage to car fridge 12S is 13.8v (car running).
*Basic 5 pin relay where cables enter the caravan seemed to be working (was clicking) but I replaced anyway.
*When first switching fridge power source to 12v, Green 12v selected indicator light comes on but after 4 seconds starts flashing in time to the relay.
*As some suggested, I raised the revs on the car, but it made no difference, light still flashing (although light was previously always steady on, even at car idle speed).
*12v element seems ok as resistance is 1.4 ohms.
I am thinking that it is a fault in the main circuit board behind the fridges main top facia.
Gas and 240v work fine.
So, the big question is ...
Rather than pay out for a circuit board, would it be ok to run 12v direct from the relay at the front of the van directly to the 12v element (bypassing all the fridge wiring)?
I would also put a 12v switch and fuse in line.
This would only be active if the car was running as now.
Any thoughts
Thanks