Stinger 310

[Ferrodo]

It seems that the Stinger 310 alarm in my van has lost its bleep. No audio when arming or disarming. All the lights flash and Swift connect tells me it’s armed or not but no sounds. I’ve been told to try a hard reset? Anyone had the same experiences ?
Cheers

 

[Deleted member 23278]

I had the problem of the ‘strangled squawk’ from the Stinger on my last caravan. Try the hard reset and if that doesn’t work have a look here it may help you find and cure the problem.

 

[Ferrodo]

Thanks for that Mickyjb I shall certainly take a look when I try the hard reset. That is once the weather warms up 🥶

 

[Banus]

Seems to be a common problem with the Sargent 310 Stinger and I posted the thread below. My speaker activates but its more of a quiet sqawk. The problem seems to be with the speaker that needs reattaching as the adhesive has dried up and the speaker has come detached from its housing.
If you click on the hyperlink on reply #6 on the link below it'll take you to another link. Click on the reply from Guest dated 16/4/21 which solved the problem for him.

Sargent 310 Stinger - not too scary!

So the clue is in the title! I have the above system installed in my 2019 Swift Challenger 480 Hi-Style which I am delighted to say works perfectly except for one thing. The siren when tested sounds like a pussy cat as opposed to a roaring lion! Its quite tame and certainly wouldn't worry an...

forums.practicalcaravan.com

 

[choppers]

It seems that the Stinger 310 alarm in my van has lost its bleep. No audio when arming or disarming. All the lights flash and Swift connect tells me it’s armed or not but no sounds. I’ve been told to try a hard reset? Anyone had the same experiences ?
Cheers

I took this up with the sargent company who quoted a ridiculous price to fix. All you need is to buy I think they are called piezo electronic speakers, essentially flat vibration discs common in many electronic devices. You can buy 10 for s few pounds. You will find the existing speaker at the base of the a alarm facing an open hole to the outside. These become brittle with age and can also become detached. Just get rid of the old one and easily wire in the new one and use an appropriate spot glue to reattach the speaker. 30 min job , costs pennies.

 

[Hutch]

When this happend to my Coachman 560, it was the alarm battery, They should be replaced every 3 years, but with COVID and everything I left it for over 5 years, never charged it for a year and as it is a NiCad, it was not recoverable. New one fitted last year all ok.
Easy to do either the speaker or change the battery , IF, you understand what your doing, but some people are not lucky enough to be able to. That's where you have to call in some one else, unfortunately. And that can cost £££

 

[Ferrodo]

Thanks all for your help, I will report back when I’ve taken a look at the thing.
Cheers

 

[Ferrodo]

Well the hard reset worked. I removed the fuse panel and disconnected the plug at FB4 and then the backup battery at the circuit board. Leaving for a few minutes before reconnecting produced the desired results and the alarm was giving the correct bleeps. So I reassembled everything, tested and nothing. So another hard reset only this time I tested the alarm function after replacing the alarm cover and then again after screwing the fuse board back into its panel. The result was that it seems to be a dicky connection I think in the fuse panel plug. I gave it a good push and moved the harness around and now it seems to work. I know I haven’t properly cured the problem but I seem to have eliminated any problem with the alarm itself.

 

[Banus]

For those that have done it, what does a hard reset involve as I'll try this before messing about replacing / reglueing the speaker.

 

[Ferrodo]

You have to remove the top cover. Leave the unit bolted to the floor. Disconnect power supply from the fuse panel. Plug FB4. Behind the panel. Disconnect the battery from the circuit board. Leave for ten minutes and reconnect.

 

[Banus]

Brilliant and thanks. Just to clarify on my part.
1. "Disconnect power supply from the fuse panel", is that the fuse on the caravan main control supply?
2. Plug FB4? Is that inside the Stinger or on the van's fuse box, is it labelled, does it have to be unplugged and is that how I disconnect the power supply?
Cheers.

 

[Ferrodo]

This is the fuse panel that is right next to the stinger box. This panel carries the fuse for the fridge and the power from the car. At least it is on my Swift 560. Unscrew the fuse panel and on the rear bottom left you will see plug FB4. Unplugging this takes the main feed off of the Stinger. Both the Stinger and fuse panel sit under the near side settee berth. The harness from the Stinger leads into the fuse panel. You can’t mistake it. Don’t go anywhere near the main PSU.

 

[Banus]

Brilliant and thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed explantion and I'm sure all will become blatantly obvious when I'm actually looking at it!
I have a 2019 Swift Challenger 480 with the Stinger under the nearside bed and the Sargent consumer main power unit / box under the sofa on the opposite side - which you've told me not to go anywhere near . My only querie was the fuse panel which on your van sits next to the Stinger. IIRC on my van the Stinger is a box that stands alone and I cant remember seeing another fuse panel nearby. I'll pay a visit soon, investigate, complete the hard reset and report back. Thanks again.

 

[Ferrodo]

If you goggle Sargent C44 fuse board you should get a picture of the beastie.

Sargent C44 Fuse Board - Caravan / Motorhome | eBay

Sargent C44 fuse board. Alko Caravan Secure Wheel Lock / Lozenge No 7 - RVR2 Swift. © SFM Caravans. Alko Secure Insert / Lozenge No 16 - Swift Rimfire 14". Alko Secure Insert / Lozenge No 28 - Bailey Unicorn 15".

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Dustydog]

Joining this belatedly.
My old BCA unit played similar tricks on me last year. Talking to a boffin at Tracker it turned out to be the fuse / fuse holder for the Tracker circuit.. The one fuse that hadn’t been touched for 12 years ! Therein lies the problem. Unlike a car where under the bonnet it is warm . Resistance built up in the fuse and holder interrupting the circuit. Removal of all fuses. Liberal cleansing over 24 hours of all the fuse holders with electrical contact spray. Thorough drying. All old fuses blown or not replaced with new . Problem solved.

 

[Banus]

Great! So, I'm going to have a go at this later today.
So basically, 1. Disconnect the on board battery then, 2. disconnect FB4 from the fuse panel. Right?
If so, I can understand why I have to disconnect the battery but why disconnect FB4 when theres no power going to it ?

 

[Ferrodo]

because FB4 is the permanent supply from the Liesure battery

 

[Ferrodo]

The battery that you disconnect is the battery inside the stinger unit ( back up battery) Not the Liesure battery. Leave that alone.

 

[Banus]

OK, update time. Drum roll🥁 .................. IT WORKED.!! The alarm tone has changed as have the decibels.
I was concerned (after I'd disconnected everything and waiting for the 10 min power down) that by powering down the system I might have to re-pair the remote but that wasn't an issue and it works fine. The hardest part was unscrewing the fuse panel as Swift use weird screws with unusual heads.
However, one observation. When I used to set / unset the alarm it used to trigger the awning light above the main door and now it doesn't, but all the other exterior van lights do flash on setting / unsetting as before. However this may be due to the fact that I'm not on EHU although that shouldn't make a difference as it works on 12v?
Many thanks to all who took the time to contribute to help me resolve this issue. Cheers

 

[Ferrodo]

Result 👏👏

 

[Banus]

Cheers and I bet you breathed a sigh of relief after all that!!

 

[Ferrodo]

So just to round this one up my Stinger failed again. No arming or disarming sound and I believe that the PIR is also faulty. I did try another hard reset but without any success. So the blasted thing is now on its way to Sargent for repair. Not a cheap pastime.

 

[Ferrodo]

To finish this thread my Stinger is now back from Sargent all repaired with a new circuit board. I sent it off on the first of February and got it back on the 22nd. Not a cheap fix but it looks as if it has had a good service including the key fobs, recharging the battery and test. I would expect a few more years of service but if it fails again then I’m not sure I will bother getting it fixed. 🤔