Hi I have a 2010 sterling eccles jubilee edition and the hot water is constantly scalding hot I have disconnected my gas bottle but it still gets scalding hot I have checked the fuses and they are ok is there anything else I can check before I have to get it looked at
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Trauma hot water constantly scalding hot
- Thread starter Beazzawick
- Start date
When running on electric assuming a dual fuel it will be very hot. Makes a tiny tank go much further. I don't believe that it's adjustable other than via your tap.
You’ve found the source of “ infinite energy”.
Seriously though the hot water tank does get very hot when on gas or electric. It helps with showers and washing up as being hot you use less hot water when mixed with cold for a comfortable shower. Also it helps combat legionnaires disease which is a rarity in caravan life. The tank is well insulated so turning off the gas doesn’t achieve anything as the tank will cool down slowly due to its insulation. Or more rapidly as cold water enters to replace hot water used.
Seriously though the hot water tank does get very hot when on gas or electric. It helps with showers and washing up as being hot you use less hot water when mixed with cold for a comfortable shower. Also it helps combat legionnaires disease which is a rarity in caravan life. The tank is well insulated so turning off the gas doesn’t achieve anything as the tank will cool down slowly due to its insulation. Or more rapidly as cold water enters to replace hot water used.
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What exact model of water heater do you have?
I would be quite surprised if the heater is faulty, as the manufacture has to have at least two means of limiting the maximum exit temperature of the water leaving the appliance, and as you tell us it happens on both gas or electric settings, it's very unlikely that both sets of controls have failed in the same way at the same time.
To comply with the required design standards most manufacture's will aim for a maximum exit temperature of about 65C. This is in line with normal domestic hot water systems
Allowing for some temperature loss as the water flows through the pipes, if you measure the temp at the closest hot tap it might reach 63C.
As others have pointed out, the hot water would normally be mixed with cold to achieve the desired temperature and quantity for showers etc.
However and despite what I've written, if your concerned about any gas or electrical appliance, it's wise to get it checked by a competent fitter.
I would be quite surprised if the heater is faulty, as the manufacture has to have at least two means of limiting the maximum exit temperature of the water leaving the appliance, and as you tell us it happens on both gas or electric settings, it's very unlikely that both sets of controls have failed in the same way at the same time.
To comply with the required design standards most manufacture's will aim for a maximum exit temperature of about 65C. This is in line with normal domestic hot water systems
Allowing for some temperature loss as the water flows through the pipes, if you measure the temp at the closest hot tap it might reach 63C.
As others have pointed out, the hot water would normally be mixed with cold to achieve the desired temperature and quantity for showers etc.
However and despite what I've written, if your concerned about any gas or electrical appliance, it's wise to get it checked by a competent fitter.
If hot water is switched off then a switch is probably being by passed. Normally an element woudl go open circuit if there is a fault or the control box would trip. As suggest previously I would also suggest getting a competent AWS technician to check the system as it could be dangerous.
It sounds like it could be as simple as a fault switch. Is the green light going out when you switch the electric element off?
The product you have is a Truma Ultrastore water heater
You will a downloadable copy of the instruction manual here.
I suggest you read it and understand how to use the heater.
The gas and electric heating functions have separate controllers, so if for example the gas and electric functions are both on, and you want to turn the heater off you need to turn both the gas control panel off and the electric element switch off.
Whilst the gas side does allow you to select the storage temperature between 30 and 70C, the electric side is preset to a maximum of about 70C. So if you have both gas set to any thing less than 70, and electric element is also turned on, then the water will continue to rise to the electric elements temperature setting, regardless of the setting on the gas control panel.
Equally if you turn the gas off, but leave the electric switch still on, the water will continue to heat as long as your connected to the mains 230V ac supply.
You will a downloadable copy of the instruction manual here.
I suggest you read it and understand how to use the heater.
The gas and electric heating functions have separate controllers, so if for example the gas and electric functions are both on, and you want to turn the heater off you need to turn both the gas control panel off and the electric element switch off.
Whilst the gas side does allow you to select the storage temperature between 30 and 70C, the electric side is preset to a maximum of about 70C. So if you have both gas set to any thing less than 70, and electric element is also turned on, then the water will continue to rise to the electric elements temperature setting, regardless of the setting on the gas control panel.
Equally if you turn the gas off, but leave the electric switch still on, the water will continue to heat as long as your connected to the mains 230V ac supply.
Welcome to the Forum Beazzawick.
I’ve noticed recently a lot of newer members are asking questions that are easily answered in the owners handbook . The Prof has given a link to the Truma manual.
My original Bailey and all the ancilliary manuals remain in the caravan. Why is it, or it seems so , isn’t the new purchaser given all the instruction manuals by the selling dealer or the private seller? Even used caravans should warrant the dealer doing a detailed handover explanation of all the workings.
When you consider the various technical complexities in a caravan surely it shouldn’t be used until the manuals have been studied?
More importantly I believe all new caravanners should have an understanding of the dangers and causes of Carbon Monoxide.
I’ve noticed recently a lot of newer members are asking questions that are easily answered in the owners handbook . The Prof has given a link to the Truma manual.
My original Bailey and all the ancilliary manuals remain in the caravan. Why is it, or it seems so , isn’t the new purchaser given all the instruction manuals by the selling dealer or the private seller? Even used caravans should warrant the dealer doing a detailed handover explanation of all the workings.
When you consider the various technical complexities in a caravan surely it shouldn’t be used until the manuals have been studied?
More importantly I believe all new caravanners should have an understanding of the dangers and causes of Carbon Monoxide.
DustyDog, whilst your hope of a a caravan coming with an instruction manual is great, the hand over is normally forgotten within 15 minutes of hitching up.
Thankfully in my Coachman I have an owner's manual , which I keep in the van, and a second one at home.
But guess where the wiring diagram is for the van, in the back of the service manual. Normally left at home.
For new caravanners, they get overloaded with information during a thorough handover - even as an experienced caravanner I forgot most of it - sitting quietly and reading the manuals is the only way - maybe secondhand caravans don't have the manuals.
65 to 70C is quite normal for hot water systems, and that should not be too hot for any caravan sink or drain.
It seems to be sometimes the case that for some reason the original owner hangs onto the manuals rather than pass on to subsequent owners. Of course some may get lost. I always kept the manuals in the caravan, so they're on hand in any event.
Health guidelines state that stored hot water must be kept at over 60 to prevent legionnaires disease.
Water can be scalding at over 45, so its important to use the mixer and ensure people do not use just hot water.
So what the OP is experiencing is perfectly normal and correct.
For the technically minded its all in this document
BEAMA guidance
Water can be scalding at over 45, so its important to use the mixer and ensure people do not use just hot water.
So what the OP is experiencing is perfectly normal and correct.
For the technically minded its all in this document
BEAMA guidance
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I thought the guidance was that the temperature should be raised to 60 C or above at specific intervals but can be stored lower - that's what the Alde system does.
HSE guidance for domestic tenanted properties is to raise temperature to at least 60 deg C but says nothing about storage being maintained at that temperature. What it does recommend is running the hot water through the system (particularly showers) if the occupants have been away from the property for sometime IE on holiday, or the property has lay vacant.
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On that basis most homes fail to meet that criterion. Our hot water comes on for two hours early morning and rarely do we have it on again that day. So from our first showers and washing up the hot tanks temperature is dropping as cold water enters to replenish that used. But it does go to 60 deg + the next morning.
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At home our boiler is set to raise the temperature once a week. In the caravan we have the ALDE system and use the boost for 30 minutes twice a day.
That’s fine because the water doesn’t get stagnant in your tanks and it’s replenished from a mains quality drinking supply. Then there’s your periodic sterilisation too. There’s so much miss information wrt Legionairres risks.
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