Tyre valve quality problems ..Would it matter if these fitters use car rubber valves or do they use specific high pressure valves for van tyres?

Jan 26, 2020
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Has anybody decided to change there rubber valves for better quality ones as mine seem to perish very quickly? I am replacing my 175R13C 175 13C 97/95N for two new tyres (any recommendations appreciated) and have read that most fitters just use the cheapest valves available ...I ask as I change my car tyres far more often than my Van tyres!

Thoughts and views much appreciated

Thank you.
 

JTQ

May 7, 2005
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Yes, I have in the last few years had to replace all my three, one failed over winter. The other road wheel was cracking about 7months later, plus the spare was change for peace of mind . The two road wheels had tyre changes about three years before things started to go wrong, the spare was about ten years old never touched. I have my doubts the valve on one road wheel was changed, I had three differing designs one on each wheel.
Mine are cold inflated to 65 psi but in use rise much higher.
My chosen tyre dealer I went to get the first valve changed, said these rubber ones are rated to 65 psi, ought to be okay, but he would not use them personally in a caravan at these pressure levels. He fitted a composite brass and rubber stem much like this one;


I would comment that I have used Tyrepal caps and both road wheels had rather lanky stems, the spare and the new replacement being shorter.
 
Jan 26, 2020
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Yes, I have in the last few years had to replace all my three, one failed over winter. The other road wheel was cracking about 7months later, plus the spare was change for peace of mind . The two road wheels had tyre changes about three years before things started to go wrong, the spare was about ten years old never touched. I have my doubts the valve on one road wheel was changed, I had three differing designs one on each wheel.
Mine are cold inflated to 65 psi but in use rise much higher.
My chosen tyre dealer I went to get the first valve changed, said these rubber ones are rated to 65 psi, ought to be okay, but he would not use them personally in a caravan at these pressure levels. He fitted a composite brass and rubber stem much like this one;


I would comment that I have used Tyrepal caps and both road wheels had rather lanky stems, the spare and the new replacement being shorter.
Thanks JTQ...I've just had a look and spotted them on Amauk site£2.52.I think there's a lot of ignorance around ref using standard valves on our pride and joy vans:) I'm going to clean the breaks pads etc while I'm changing the tyres and cannot find a clear answer to replacing the "One shot nut" I've purchased new Alko O.S.N but don't know if to use Mineral Grease or which make! Thanks again I have put the Valves in my Amaz basket and now look for suitable tyres:))) PS. I'll have a look at the TYREPAL Caps as well!
 

JTQ

May 7, 2005
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The Tyrepal caps are an after market external TPMS for caravans.
There are discounts on these systems, one being via the Caravan Club.
I would very strongly suggest you buy into a van TPMS, as you will not have a hint of a small puncture whilst towing, but that leads to over flexing of the tyre's walls and the heat from that destroys probably an otherwise usable tyre. Not only that, but the end result is a pseudo blowout, with a chance of the flaying bits taking your wheel arch out; but whatever a lot of avoidable hassle.
Within the Alko hub the only places to use grease are the pivot points of the shoes etc, the bearing is sealed for life and very much better not touched. So the spec of the grease is IMO wide open, with no great technical challenges, I used an anti scuff stuff I happened to have. I definitely don't grease the OSN thread.
 
Jan 26, 2020
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The Tyrepal caps are an after market external TPMS for caravans.
There are discounts on these systems, one being via the Caravan Club.
I would very strongly suggest you buy into a van TPMS, as you will not have a hint of a small puncture whilst towing, but that leads to over flexing of the tyre's walls and the heat from that destroys probably an otherwise usable tyre. Not only that, but the end result is a pseudo blowout, with a chance of the flaying bits taking your wheel arch out; but whatever a lot of avoidable hassle.
Within the Alko hub the only places to use grease are the pivot points of the shoes etc, the bearing is sealed for life and very much better not touched. So the spec of the grease is IMO wide open, with no great technical challenges, I used an anti scuff stuff I happened to have. I definitely don't grease the OSN thread.
Great Info! I thought this too...It's just that I read it on a PDF file from Alko which stated to use a small amount of "Alko mineral grease" reading deeper stating something to do with the nut being slightly oval...This question has stopped me getting the job done with it being very important safety issue...You mentioned "anti scuff stuff " where can I buy it from?

I thank you for your time ...It's very much appreciated!
Just off to take our dogs in the rain now...Thank you
 

JTQ

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Mine is a tube of Molyslip grease, probably 30 plus years old.
As I tried to say earlier the serviced greased items within the drum present easy duties for any grease.
A cheap readily available stuff for these brake pivots, I would be happy to use, is a copper grease from Halfords.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/halfords-copper-grease-20g
Don't get this stuff anywhere near this or any rolling element bearing or in this case the axle thread, the latter you don't want to counter friction.

The OSN are factory distorted to create a high level of self locking as they again structurally deform on fitting, the reason they are one shot. Once fitted they have deformed to fit the stub thread, the additional grip that gives can't be recreated to the same level if reused.

You are going to need a pretty strong torque wrench for these nuts, above most domestic market tools.
 
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Waxoyl is the best thing to use. Put it on the valve stems (and such as UJ boots and handbrake boots) and you will never have any problems.
Take your wheels off, cover the brakes etc, and spray the springs and especially the spring seats top and bottom and you will be amazed how the ride improves and quietens considerably.
 
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Mine is a tube of Molyslip grease, probably 30 plus years old.
As I tried to say earlier the serviced greased items within the drum present easy duties for any grease.
A cheap readily available stuff for these brake pivots, I would be happy to use, is a copper grease from Halfords.
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/halfords-copper-grease-20g
Don't get this stuff anywhere near this or any rolling element bearing or in this case the axle thread, the latter you don't want to counter friction.

The OSN are factory distorted to create a high level of self locking as they again structurally deform on fitting, the reason they are one shot. Once fitted they have deformed to fit the stub thread, the additional grip that gives can't be recreated to the same level if reused.

You are going to need a pretty strong torque wrench for these nuts, above most domestic market tools.
This looks similar to the silverhook sgpg 20,copper grease tub I've just purchased...Where the brake pads just touch the back of the hub I was going to put a very thin layer on the four points once I'd cleaned out the dust etc...Also on the steadies....I've got a strong torque wrench which will cope with the 290 n+- and a new breaker bar.I have also invested in https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Purpleli...704193&hash=item3fa9ee1795:g:CnUAAOSw01JbiAO7 which bolts to the chassis and makes for far safer wheel changing....So just to recap don't put anything on the thread of the "One shot nut" as it will secure enough?

Kind Regards
 
Jan 26, 2020
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Waxoyl is the best thing to use. Put it on the valve stems (and such as UJ boots and handbrake boots) and you will never have any problems.
Take your wheels off, cover the brakes etc, and spray the springs and especially the spring seats top and bottom and you will be amazed how the ride improves and quietens considerably.
We have a newish Skoda which creeks over humps and (been fully checked no fault found) might try this.Thank You Woodentop
 
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We have a newish Skoda which creeks over humps and (been fully checked no fault found) might try this.Thank You Woodentop

Oh, I wouldn't worry about that - unless it is really LOUD and annoying! We are on our third Passat estate - the first one was 3yrs old with 57K on it and didn't creak, but the other two were only six months old with 11K and 8K on them respectively when we got them and they both creak/creaked.
If it is annoying it is very easy to do a better job on an Octy (assumption.) Take the back wheel off and jack it up a bit higher. Remove the bolt on the bottom of the shocker (which is outside the spring) and let the spring extend. This will release the pressure on the bottom cup and the cone over which the top of the spring sits. (Having first put a bin liner over the entire wheel/brake assembly) lather both rubbers with Waxoyl - you can even thin it a bit with white spirit to get it to run. Then put everything back together and you will be amazed at the difference.
If the rear springs sit in a deep metal channel at the lower end (like our Passat and likely a Superb) don't even think about removing the springs - just lather them with Waxoyl. These springs need a good compressor to move them and then are finger breakers!
One thought: if you have any issues of the back end drooping when you hitch up, this is a good time to fit a pair of Grayston assister springs (like Madd but British.) After fitment our Octy was a different motor both solo and towing.
 
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Oh, I wouldn't worry about that - unless it is really LOUD and annoying! We are on our third Passat estate - the first one was 3yrs old with 57K on it and didn't creak, but the other two were only six months old with 11K and 8K on them respectively when we got them and they both creak/creaked.
If it is annoying it is very easy to do a better job on an Octy (assumption.) Take the back wheel off and jack it up a bit higher. Remove the bolt on the bottom of the shocker (which is outside the spring) and let the spring extend. This will release the pressure on the bottom cup and the cone over which the top of the spring sits. (Having first put a bin liner over the entire wheel/brake assembly) lather both rubbers with Waxoyl - you can even thin it a bit with white spirit to get it to run. Then put everything back together and you will be amazed at the difference.
If the rear springs sit in a deep metal channel at the lower end (like our Passat and likely a Superb) don't even think about removing the springs - just lather them with Waxoyl. These springs need a good compressor to move them and then are finger breakers!
One thought: if you have any issues of the back end drooping when you hitch up, this is a good time to fit a pair of Grayston assister springs (like Madd but British.) After fitment our Octy was a different motor both solo and towing.
The Skoda Fabia is a great little car for running around in..Our tow car is a Sorento 2.5 Diesel automatic, best tow car we've ever had ..It's old but, only has 69k on the clock as it's mainly used for towing.The only problem is on the very steep long hills you can sometimes smell the rubber hoses of the engine coming through:)
 
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Oh, I wouldn't worry about that - unless it is really LOUD and annoying! We are on our third Passat estate - the first one was 3yrs old with 57K on it and didn't creak, but the other two were only six months old with 11K and 8K on them respectively when we got them and they both creak/creaked.
If it is annoying it is very easy to do a better job on an Octy (assumption.) Take the back wheel off and jack it up a bit higher. Remove the bolt on the bottom of the shocker (which is outside the spring) and let the spring extend. This will release the pressure on the bottom cup and the cone over which the top of the spring sits. (Having first put a bin liner over the entire wheel/brake assembly) lather both rubbers with Waxoyl - you can even thin it a bit with white spirit to get it to run. Then put everything back together and you will be amazed at the difference.
If the rear springs sit in a deep metal channel at the lower end (like our Passat and likely a Superb) don't even think about removing the springs - just lather them with Waxoyl. These springs need a good compressor to move them and then are finger breakers!
One thought: if you have any issues of the back end drooping when you hitch up, this is a good time to fit a pair of Grayston assister springs (like Madd but British.) After fitment our Octy was a different motor both solo and towing.
Grayston didn’t supply spring assisters IE supplementary springs for my Superb 4x4. So rather than use the type that just reduce spring compression travel I fitted MAD with a good improvement. I won’t attempt to address the criticisms etc as I’ve answered those in previous posts. But it’s the second car I’ve used MAD on with no unwanted effects.
 
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On the OP's original question:
I had two new tyres fitted back in September by a local tyre dealer who came and did it on my drive, I removed the Tyre Pal sensors the night before. On trying to fit the sensor back on one of the wheels I found the fitter had cross threaded the valve, there was no way I could fit the sensor. So rather annoyed I rang the office and the owner asked me what colour the valve was, black I said, he was very apologetic and said they were the wrong ones they should be the brass high pressure ones, fitter came back within the hour and changed BOTH valves. He was not happy, my fault...I think not!!
What I do now the company looks after our whole fleet of works vehicle's 3 lorries, 1 merc sprinter, 2 vans and the Shogun.
Did that have something to do with it?;)
 
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On the OP's original question:
I had two new tyres fitted back in September by a local tyre dealer who came and did it on my drive, I removed the Tyre Pal sensors the night before. On trying to fit the sensor back on one of the wheels I found the fitter had cross threaded the valve, there was no way I could fit the sensor. So rather annoyed I rang the office and the owner asked me what colour the valve was, black I said, he was very apologetic and said they were the wrong ones they should be the brass high pressure ones, fitter came back within the hour and changed BOTH valves. He was not happy, my fault...I think not!!
What I do now the company looks after our whole fleet of works vehicle's 3 lorries, 1 merc sprinter, 2 vans and the Shogun.
Did that have something to do with it?;)
On the OP's original question:
I had two new tyres fitted back in September by a local tyre dealer who came and did it on my drive, I removed the Tyre Pal sensors the night before. On trying to fit the sensor back on one of the wheels I found the fitter had cross threaded the valve, there was no way I could fit the sensor. So rather annoyed I rang the office and the owner asked me what colour the valve was, black I said, he was very apologetic and said they were the wrong ones they should be the brass high pressure ones, fitter came back within the hour and changed BOTH valves. He was not happy, my fault...I think not!!
What I do now the company looks after our whole fleet of works vehicle's 3 lorries, 1 merc sprinter, 2 vans and the Shogun.
Did that have something to do with it?;)
LOL...I bet it did! I'm just in the process of buying new tyres after a fitter put out of date ones on my Bailey Ranger..I now know how to read the info on the tyre...Expensive lesson:)
 

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