Van or car position

[Judy2]

We have got a swift challenger 510 2006, for towing the switch has to be on van position i think,but we have been told to put it on car switch, which is right ?

And on site what should it be on ? thanks.

 

[Paul_374358508]

Towing the switch is to Car. When the car is disconnected the switch is on Van.

Paul

 

[Judy2]

Thanks for that Paul, but just found on website this

Warning: The fridge will only operate

in transit when the 12 v distribution

panel selector switch is in the van postion.

What does that mean ? i am confused.

 

[Angus1]

Oh, we`re talking caravans!

When I saw the subject title I thought I was in for some education!

 

[Judy2]

Sorry to disappoint you Angus.

 

[rayc]

Judy, I had a 2006 Ace Award from the Swift group. The switch had to be in the VAN position whilst towing for the battery charging and fridge supply to work. It should also be in this position when on site with EHU, and battery charging is required. When power is required from the car whilst on site the switch is in the CAR position. There was also a central position [unmarked] which allows the van 12v systems to operate without a battery whilst on EHU.

Be careful as the answer to your question will depend upon the control box fitted.

Ray

 

[rayc]

Judy, I had a 2006 Ace Award from the Swift group. The switch had to be in the VAN position whilst towing for the battery charging and fridge supply to work. It should also be in this position when on site with EHU, and battery charging is required. When power is required from the car whilst on site the switch is in the CAR position. There was also a central position [unmarked] which allows the van 12v systems to operate without a battery whilst on EHU.

Be careful as the answer to your question will depend upon the control box fitted.

Ray

funny really as my first thoughts were the same as Angus's. That's men for you.

 

[Judy2]

I can tell you Ray without any problem the control box is a NE2006 CWS.

So to clarify for towing, switch on van for fridge and on site for EHU also on van ?

I have read the book,and thought i understood it, but wanted to check as someone told me i was wrong, thanks Ray.

 

[Judy2]

I can tell you Ray without any problem the control box is a NE2006 CWS.

So to clarify for towing, switch on van for fridge and on site for EHU also on van ?

I have read the book,and thought i understood it, but wanted to check as someone told me i was wrong, thanks Ray.

One more question ( might be daft )

When power is required from the car whilst on site the switch is in the CAR position.

What does that mean ? Our last van was a Provence 04 and that was so simple for me .

 

[rayc]

Judy, it is ALWAYS in VAN position unless you want to run the van electrics from the car when it is in the CAR position. When on EHU and you remove the battery you can run the van from the Power Supply / charger with the switch in the unmarked Central position.

I am fairly sure my control box is the same as yours but I no longer have the van.

If you have any doubts or want to know how you can check the operation fairly easily then let me know. Ray

 

[rayc]

Judy, it is ALWAYS in VAN position unless you want to run the van electrics from the car when it is in the CAR position. When on EHU and you remove the battery you can run the van from the Power Supply / charger with the switch in the unmarked Central position.

I am fairly sure my control box is the same as yours but I no longer have the van.

If you have any doubts or want to know how you can check the operation fairly easily then let me know. Ray

Judy, To answer your question regarding the CAR supply. If you never had a van battery, or it is flat, you can run the van 12v systems (lights, water pump etc) from the car battery. There is a "permanent feed" on the car 12S (grey) socket which can power the van when the switch is in the CAR position. This feed is also used to charge the van battery when on the move.

You will require a 12S extension lead, which you can get from a dealer, normally on a small reel about 10m in length, which simply connects pins 4 and 3 from the car to the van. In the old days this is how vans worked. There was not normally a seperate battery in the van unless it was posh.

Ray

 

[Judy2]

Thank you Ray for all your help, its just that dealer said one thing and the book another.

If you have any doubts or want to know how you can check the operation fairly easily then let me know.

I am nosey now, do tell please Ray.

 

[rayc]

Judy, I am on my 2nd glass of wine but here goes:

Initial check of the car circuit: Connect the car to the van without the engine runnning. With the switch in the VAN position switch the van 12v lights on. Start the engine and the lights should go out. Switch off the engine and after a short delay the lights should come back on.

Then:

1. With the switch in the VAN position connect a volt meter across the van battery terminals and you will get approx 12.5v assuming it is in a fairly charged state.

2. With the car connected to the van start the engine. The votage should rise to approx 14v indicating that the car alternator is charging the battery. {note this may be a bit less depending on the size of the wires and the volts drop in the circuit.} The fridge should also be getting 12v supply.

3. To prove the battery is receiving a charge on EHU similarly check across the battery terminals and the voltage should rise to approx 13.8v when the charger is switched on.

4. To prove the CAR position then connect the van to the car, via the 12S extension cable, and with the engine switched off check that the 12v lights in the van work.

5. To prove the mid unmarked position disconnect the van battery and whilst on EHU confirm that the van 12v systems work.

Please excuse any spelling / grammar errors.

Ray

 

[Judy2]

Hope you enjoyed your wine last night Ray, once again thank you for all your help, take care Judy