We are thinking of changing our leisure battery.And was wandering if anyone could recommend any particular makes.I have been looking on the net,and have read about starter batteries and deep cycle batteries .The mind boggles.Any advice would be greatfully received.Thanks.
Which leisure battery to buy ?
- Thread starter Nellie2
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Damian
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- Mar 14, 2005
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There is no make which is outstanding, they are all pretty much the same these days.
The choice of battery is is really dependent on whether you always use electric hook up or use sites without hook up such as rallying.
It is generally accepted that a leisure battery is the better option as they are deep cycle, which means they can withstand prolonged slow draw on them, which is ideal for off hook up use.
A car battery is designed to supply a heavy load for a short time, consequently it will not last very long away from hook up but would supply all you need if always connected to the mains on hook up.
Also, if you have a motor mover, it is recommended to have a 110a/h leisure battery.
The choice of battery is is really dependent on whether you always use electric hook up or use sites without hook up such as rallying.
It is generally accepted that a leisure battery is the better option as they are deep cycle, which means they can withstand prolonged slow draw on them, which is ideal for off hook up use.
A car battery is designed to supply a heavy load for a short time, consequently it will not last very long away from hook up but would supply all you need if always connected to the mains on hook up.
Also, if you have a motor mover, it is recommended to have a 110a/h leisure battery.
There are two common types of battery in this field:-
Vehicle batteries - designed to give a huge current for a few seconds to start the engine but then to do almost nothing (except get recharged) until the next engine start. They are cheap and fairly reliable but if used in a caravan application the guarantee will be invalid. The downside is that if deeply discharged permanent (mechanical) damage can result.
Leisure batteries - like vehicle batteries can supply quite a large (but smaller) current for a short time but are specifically designed to be run down to a very low state of charge and they brought back up without damage. Unlike vehicle batteries where, say, 38Ah means that (in theory) it could supply 380A for 1/10th of an hour, leisure batteries are rated at a 10 hour or 20 hour load. That is a 38Ah leisure battery could in theory supply 3.8A continuously for 10 hours or 1.9A for 20 hours - these all being down to 1.8V per cell or 10.8V across the battery.
After that there is the choice of a wet-cell battery (which needs topping up periodically,) a sealed battery (which doesn't) or a gel battery which uses an electrolytic paste rather than liquid. There are also cadmium types which are really no better but cost much more.
If you rarely use the battery (i.e. you usually use a mains EHU) then a large capacity unit is not necessary unless your 'van has a mover. If you don't use mains and/or you have a mover then get the biggest battery that will fit in your battery compartment.
Finally, when you have decided the rating you need both shop and look around. A very large proportion of 'leisure batteries' are just the same units badge marketed and sold at widely differing prices. Many of them also come from eastern Europe and parts of Asia where build quality is not what we would come to expect from western sources. Sonnenschien and Yuasa are good makes used professionally in uninteruptable power supplies but you will pay for it.
Vehicle batteries - designed to give a huge current for a few seconds to start the engine but then to do almost nothing (except get recharged) until the next engine start. They are cheap and fairly reliable but if used in a caravan application the guarantee will be invalid. The downside is that if deeply discharged permanent (mechanical) damage can result.
Leisure batteries - like vehicle batteries can supply quite a large (but smaller) current for a short time but are specifically designed to be run down to a very low state of charge and they brought back up without damage. Unlike vehicle batteries where, say, 38Ah means that (in theory) it could supply 380A for 1/10th of an hour, leisure batteries are rated at a 10 hour or 20 hour load. That is a 38Ah leisure battery could in theory supply 3.8A continuously for 10 hours or 1.9A for 20 hours - these all being down to 1.8V per cell or 10.8V across the battery.
After that there is the choice of a wet-cell battery (which needs topping up periodically,) a sealed battery (which doesn't) or a gel battery which uses an electrolytic paste rather than liquid. There are also cadmium types which are really no better but cost much more.
If you rarely use the battery (i.e. you usually use a mains EHU) then a large capacity unit is not necessary unless your 'van has a mover. If you don't use mains and/or you have a mover then get the biggest battery that will fit in your battery compartment.
Finally, when you have decided the rating you need both shop and look around. A very large proportion of 'leisure batteries' are just the same units badge marketed and sold at widely differing prices. Many of them also come from eastern Europe and parts of Asia where build quality is not what we would come to expect from western sources. Sonnenschien and Yuasa are good makes used professionally in uninteruptable power supplies but you will pay for it.
We ALWAYS have EHU and NEVER use the battery for anything other than the motor mover so contrary to the above advice I now use a car starter battery. This is much more suited for the purpose and has never let me down. This was not the case when I was trying to use a lesuire battery for motors drawing 40-50 amps. Horses for courses etc. If you don't use EHU all the time or do not have a mover get a lesuire battery.
We use a 110Ahr Elecsol battery. Had it now for 3 years with no problems - not even needed topping up. Has plenty of oompf for moving our Senator!
Mike
Mike
"marine " batterys have both deep cycle ability and are capable of providing large currents, We have a Numax CXV.
http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-Motor-Mover-Batteries-S1270-1.html
http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-Motor-Mover-Batteries-S1270-1.html
Elecsol always seemed expensive but the increase in metal prices caused lead acid batteries to close the gap.
Have been reports that Elecsols customer service is poor? but if you buy from a seller not Elecsol then you dont have to deal with them.
5 year warranty and lighter than a lead battery , i have had for 4 years now and still all ok.
Have been reports that Elecsols customer service is poor? but if you buy from a seller not Elecsol then you dont have to deal with them.
5 year warranty and lighter than a lead battery , i have had for 4 years now and still all ok.
There is no make which is outstanding, they are all pretty much the same these days.
thats not strictly true, as all batteries , depending on the type,size and number of plates can have wildly varying levels of internal resistance that limits the batteries current output.
For example if your battery has a high internal resistance and you use it for a motor mover, dont expect the battery to last too long.
I have a cheap 110ah unit but it very quickly loses its charge when subjected to a high current draw, this being due to its high internal resistance ( your battery can get hot because of this), however when i tried a much more expensive elecsol unit the the measured charge level after use was much higher.
I also measured the current draw on both batteries during use , and found the elecsol faired much better.
I still have my cheapo , as i cant afford an Elecsol at the moment.
I used the both batteries in storage , on the level, moving the same distance.
thats not strictly true, as all batteries , depending on the type,size and number of plates can have wildly varying levels of internal resistance that limits the batteries current output.
For example if your battery has a high internal resistance and you use it for a motor mover, dont expect the battery to last too long.
I have a cheap 110ah unit but it very quickly loses its charge when subjected to a high current draw, this being due to its high internal resistance ( your battery can get hot because of this), however when i tried a much more expensive elecsol unit the the measured charge level after use was much higher.
I also measured the current draw on both batteries during use , and found the elecsol faired much better.
I still have my cheapo , as i cant afford an Elecsol at the moment.
I used the both batteries in storage , on the level, moving the same distance.
- Nov 11, 2009
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I have had an Elecsol 110ah for 6 years and it still moves the 1400kg up a steep slope and a sharp turn onto a pitch in france. I remove it from the van when its in store and set it up ona CTEK maintenace charger. It also started my 2.5 sorento last winter when its own batery failed.
- Mar 10, 2006
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I always use electric hookup, but still have a 110AH battery for the mover, and for if the mains fails.
Now in its 7th year, at present it moves a 1565 caravan with no problem.
And it never leaves the battery locker, apart from a yearly electrolyte level check.
The only charge it gets is the 13.8v approx from the on board charger, and a bit more when attached to the car.
It is a cheap battery, which i bought with a two year warranty.
It says its a "Diamond leisure battery, for caravans and marine leisure applications".
It does the job, so whats the point in paying more?
Now in its 7th year, at present it moves a 1565 caravan with no problem.
And it never leaves the battery locker, apart from a yearly electrolyte level check.
The only charge it gets is the 13.8v approx from the on board charger, and a bit more when attached to the car.
It is a cheap battery, which i bought with a two year warranty.
It says its a "Diamond leisure battery, for caravans and marine leisure applications".
It does the job, so whats the point in paying more?
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