We are going to the New Forest after Xmas on our first even caravan holiday in our Elddis Odessy. Bit worried about if we will be warm enough. I been trying the blown air heating but on 1,000W it does not seem to pump out any heat in the lounge, just slightly warm air in the washroom. Will the gas powered heater do better (the elctric and gas powered are all built into one unit)? I guess I will try it over the weekend. The blown air does has a 2,000w settign but I am expecting the CL we are staying at only has 5amp (perhaps I should check) which by my calculation will only allow about 1200w max.
winter heating
- Thread starter Alanjarvis
- Start date
Hi Alan
I went away in the van a couple of weeks ago (by myself) and the weather was just above freezing.
I prefer to use gas when the weather is quite cold. When I went to bed, I just left the gas on number one or two and it was fine. Infact, I left the gas on all the time I was away, even when I went out.
I also found that the gas heats the water up far quicker and hotter on gas than it does on the electric. That was the first time I've ever used gas to heat the water.
I'm sure you'll be fine.
Lisa
I went away in the van a couple of weeks ago (by myself) and the weather was just above freezing.
I prefer to use gas when the weather is quite cold. When I went to bed, I just left the gas on number one or two and it was fine. Infact, I left the gas on all the time I was away, even when I went out.
I also found that the gas heats the water up far quicker and hotter on gas than it does on the electric. That was the first time I've ever used gas to heat the water.
I'm sure you'll be fine.
Lisa
Alan,
Have a look in the Technical section page 2/3 under Truma blown air.
Might give you some info.
Once the core of the van is warm then 1000w should be ok.
(depends on how much you drink LoL).
Jim
Have a look in the Technical section page 2/3 under Truma blown air.
Might give you some info.
Once the core of the van is warm then 1000w should be ok.
(depends on how much you drink LoL).
Jim
Alan,
If you didnt know , there is a balancing flap/lever on the rear of the heater. This is used to push air to where it is needed.
Also , do any of your blown air pipes go under the floor of the van. If so then insulating them properly makes a great inprovement.
Jim
If you didnt know , there is a balancing flap/lever on the rear of the heater. This is used to push air to where it is needed.
Also , do any of your blown air pipes go under the floor of the van. If so then insulating them properly makes a great inprovement.
Jim
My van also has a slider under the front left sofa which the dealer maintanaince man who showed me around the caravan was a bit vauge about. Any one know what this does? I looked it up in the manual and it said something also rather vague about air mixture??
Alan,
This slider might be the control valve for the awning warmer vent.
Do you have an awning warmer? . If so make sure this is closed. I used to put a rag in the ext. vent to really block it off
Jim
This slider might be the control valve for the awning warmer vent.
Do you have an awning warmer? . If so make sure this is closed. I used to put a rag in the ext. vent to really block it off
Jim
Alan
Before you switch to blown air let the heater warm up. Using blown air at the outset doesn't allow the element to warm up quickly.
As Lisa says also use the gas. The output is more than sufficient.
I'd suggest you use propane rasther than butane this time of year.
Cheers
Dustydog
Before you switch to blown air let the heater warm up. Using blown air at the outset doesn't allow the element to warm up quickly.
As Lisa says also use the gas. The output is more than sufficient.
I'd suggest you use propane rasther than butane this time of year.
Cheers
Dustydog
If you do run gas and electric at the same time, make sure the fan is running as the fire can get very hot.
Have a read here .. pages 94 - 98 .. explains most of it quite well. There might be the odd difference between your 'van and this but I think they will be 90% the same .. 
http://www.swiftgroup.co.uk/uploads/HandBooks/caravans/2010 Tourer handbook/07 Fitted Equipment.pdf
http://www.swiftgroup.co.uk/uploads/HandBooks/caravans/2010 Tourer handbook/07 Fitted Equipment.pdf
Alan,
If like my Bailey Limousin your heater set on 2Kw will not heat your caravan to an exceptable level. When you set the blower to vent you will find that very liitle heat actually reaches the point of exit. I'm sure my van was designed for summer use
Again you will find that some sites supplying 6/10 amps leave you with problems of electric usage. The answer I find is to run on gas with one or two small fan heater to supliment addition heat output in area,s that feel cold toilet for example.
The use of a single electric blanket will also help keep you warm in bed.
Buy a small room thermometer and check for cold spots, my toilet / shower area will only warm up with the use of additional heat, I hope your caravan manufactures took winter usage into account, I wonder if the designers of mine ever considered this issue.
Good luck
Wishing you a Merry Xmas
Bob
If like my Bailey Limousin your heater set on 2Kw will not heat your caravan to an exceptable level. When you set the blower to vent you will find that very liitle heat actually reaches the point of exit. I'm sure my van was designed for summer use
Again you will find that some sites supplying 6/10 amps leave you with problems of electric usage. The answer I find is to run on gas with one or two small fan heater to supliment addition heat output in area,s that feel cold toilet for example.
The use of a single electric blanket will also help keep you warm in bed.
Buy a small room thermometer and check for cold spots, my toilet / shower area will only warm up with the use of additional heat, I hope your caravan manufactures took winter usage into account, I wonder if the designers of mine ever considered this issue.
Good luck
Wishing you a Merry Xmas
Bob
2kw blown air heating working correctly is quite adequate to heat most vans.
Unfortunately a lot of vans need addition lagging of pipes (external) and the system 'tweaking'
JIm
Unfortunately a lot of vans need addition lagging of pipes (external) and the system 'tweaking'
JIm
i find my heating poor with my bailey senator vermont, even if i diverted all the air flow to the bathroom, the exit air is still cool, yes the ducting does run under the floor, but i don't intend to add extra insulation.
its far easier to use a fan heater in the bathroom,set to 1kw, and run the installed heater in 1kw convection mode only.
even then at the start and finish off the season, 2kw is the minimum required.
if you winter caravan, i really think you need to use gas, plus electric.
its far easier to use a fan heater in the bathroom,set to 1kw, and run the installed heater in 1kw convection mode only.
even then at the start and finish off the season, 2kw is the minimum required.
if you winter caravan, i really think you need to use gas, plus electric.
Ray,
If you need gas and electric in a Vermont then there is a problem!
What often happen is the existing Truma thermostat is rubbish and cuts out too soon and doesn't allow the heater to attain max output before cutting the elements out. I am sure Gary of Arc systems will back me up on this point( he is the expert we all bow to !)
Jim
If you need gas and electric in a Vermont then there is a problem!
What often happen is the existing Truma thermostat is rubbish and cuts out too soon and doesn't allow the heater to attain max output before cutting the elements out. I am sure Gary of Arc systems will back me up on this point( he is the expert we all bow to !)
Jim
We winter caravan every year, this nis our 3rd caravan winter caravanning and never had a problem with heat in thew living area. 2 of the vans were fixed beds and the current one is the same layout as the vermont.
It does stay cool in the bathroom as said but the living area is always toasty. We put the heating on 2kw and also gas for 10 mins, switch the gas off and only run the electric. we leave the heating on 24/7 whilst were away and if were cold when we enter the van from going out we put the gas on again for 10 mins and all is well.
Like the idea of using a small heater in the bathroom to supplement the blown heating
Kevin
It does stay cool in the bathroom as said but the living area is always toasty. We put the heating on 2kw and also gas for 10 mins, switch the gas off and only run the electric. we leave the heating on 24/7 whilst were away and if were cold when we enter the van from going out we put the gas on again for 10 mins and all is well.
Like the idea of using a small heater in the bathroom to supplement the blown heating
Kevin
james
we use the heater on 500watt all night, no fan, set around 6 on the stat, heater works fine, no problem with stat sensor which is separate.
trucker
yes the beauty with a portable fan heater is any heat losses are too the cabin area, so a very efficient way of supplying a heat source, no losses to ducting.
we use the heater on 500watt all night, no fan, set around 6 on the stat, heater works fine, no problem with stat sensor which is separate.
trucker
yes the beauty with a portable fan heater is any heat losses are too the cabin area, so a very efficient way of supplying a heat source, no losses to ducting.
When we bought our 2002 Eccles, the Ultraheat would warm the 'van nicely then switch off. It wouldn't switch on again until the thermostat in the control panel, attached to the side of the wardrobe, had cooled down again. Fitting a remote thermostat to the gas thermostat on the heater ( as recommended by Gary)transformed the heating.
We set the fan to full on auto and let it sort itself out. The vent in the bedroom is closed and the washroom and lounge ones open, result - a steady temperature in the 'van, a warm washroom and dry towels.
The ducting outside is the Truma black insulated type but is only 1 metre long. If yours is considerably longer then additional insulation may help. If it's brown - it definately will.
Talk to Gary at www.arcsystems.biz
Mike
We set the fan to full on auto and let it sort itself out. The vent in the bedroom is closed and the washroom and lounge ones open, result - a steady temperature in the 'van, a warm washroom and dry towels.
The ducting outside is the Truma black insulated type but is only 1 metre long. If yours is considerably longer then additional insulation may help. If it's brown - it definately will.
Talk to Gary at www.arcsystems.biz
Mike
Hi Alan,
You may already have this covered, but it is worth mentioning just in case.
Make sure you are running on red propane cylinders and not blue butane in the cold winter. Otherwise you will only have the electric part of the Truma to rely on for warmth. I can't remember exactly at what temperature butane stops turning from a liquid to gas in the cylinder, but we struggled in Edinburgh during a cold Easter spell a couple of years back.
You may already have this covered, but it is worth mentioning just in case.
Make sure you are running on red propane cylinders and not blue butane in the cold winter. Otherwise you will only have the electric part of the Truma to rely on for warmth. I can't remember exactly at what temperature butane stops turning from a liquid to gas in the cylinder, but we struggled in Edinburgh during a cold Easter spell a couple of years back.
Hello Alan
Liquefied butane gas stops boiling at -0C, but as you need some pressure in the bottle to drive the gas out and to overcome the pressure losses in the regulator and pipework you effectively need a minimum temperature of about 2C. However even this is problematical, as the liquefied gas uses its heat energy of the thermal mass to drive the boiling process. As gas is liberated the temperature of the liquefied mass drops, and reduces the boiling rate- as self regulating process.
The bottle gets more heat energy to maintain the boiling process from the ambient air around it. That is one reason that gas bottle lockers are very well ventilated.
For practical reasons Butane bottles will not be reliable in providing enough gas to supply the space heater and cooker at ambient temperatures below about 5C.
Propane has exactly the same processes at work but its critical boiling temperature is -42C, so it is perfectly happy in UK winter temperatures.
Liquefied butane gas stops boiling at -0C, but as you need some pressure in the bottle to drive the gas out and to overcome the pressure losses in the regulator and pipework you effectively need a minimum temperature of about 2C. However even this is problematical, as the liquefied gas uses its heat energy of the thermal mass to drive the boiling process. As gas is liberated the temperature of the liquefied mass drops, and reduces the boiling rate- as self regulating process.
The bottle gets more heat energy to maintain the boiling process from the ambient air around it. That is one reason that gas bottle lockers are very well ventilated.
For practical reasons Butane bottles will not be reliable in providing enough gas to supply the space heater and cooker at ambient temperatures below about 5C.
Propane has exactly the same processes at work but its critical boiling temperature is -42C, so it is perfectly happy in UK winter temperatures.
Only use gas and electric simultaneously if you've got the Truma system (Truma heater and Truma Ultraheat). If its the Carver unit then it will over heat. The carver unit has push buttons to control it wheras the Truma has the 500,1000,2000 switch. The gas heater is rated at 3.5kw so is nearly twice as powerful as the elctric elements
The insulation spec for most british caravans assumes that the mains heating is supplementary although in most cases it is probably adequate unless it's really cold (below 0 degrees and of course it depends on the size of the van as well. A larger van has more surface area and sometimes more windows to dissipate heat to the outside world. Think how much insulation you need in your loft (150-200mm) and then compare that with the 25-30mm in the van roof.
To back James up on his first comment, the biggest problem with Truma electric heating over the years has indeed been the position of the temperature sensor, fitting a remote temperature sensor, in the correct location, does cure 99% of the problems
Since 2007 Truma themselves have been supplying a sensor for OEM fit and now recommend the correct location, you should then have 'nearly' no problems with electric heating after this date.
The correct location being attached to the gas fires temp sensor.
Nearly meaning, OEM fit are not best designed and still can have a small but noticeable time lag switching back on, working correctly, you should not notice any change in temperature.
(I might add, mine work perfectly!)
I also know of at least one batch of 2004 control boards fitted with faulty mirco-chips, these don't respond to the sensor as they should and the heating still stays off longer or indeed, it may well not switch back on until you turn the power off and switch back on, so forcing a reset.
Really for reference rather than a big problem but I've just inadvertently refurbished one of these boards and send it out, with all the trouble that's caused! so worth being aware then.
Main problem with control boards is burnt relay contacts not supplying the elements with power so total heating wattage reduced
Not sure about your last comment though Jim? I read everything people say and collate it all to come up with answers, ones no good without the other?!
Since 2007 Truma themselves have been supplying a sensor for OEM fit and now recommend the correct location, you should then have 'nearly' no problems with electric heating after this date.
The correct location being attached to the gas fires temp sensor.
Nearly meaning, OEM fit are not best designed and still can have a small but noticeable time lag switching back on, working correctly, you should not notice any change in temperature.
(I might add, mine work perfectly!)
I also know of at least one batch of 2004 control boards fitted with faulty mirco-chips, these don't respond to the sensor as they should and the heating still stays off longer or indeed, it may well not switch back on until you turn the power off and switch back on, so forcing a reset.
Really for reference rather than a big problem but I've just inadvertently refurbished one of these boards and send it out, with all the trouble that's caused! so worth being aware then.
Main problem with control boards is burnt relay contacts not supplying the elements with power so total heating wattage reduced
Not sure about your last comment though Jim? I read everything people say and collate it all to come up with answers, ones no good without the other?!
i have been following this one with interest, as i also cannot fathom out the simple workings of my heating system.
first and foremost, remember i am the newbie in here and what might seem puzzling to me will be obvious to you folks.
my caravan is an abbey aventura 2001 model with the truma space heater and blown air system, there are two switch panels at the bottom panel of the right hand front seat, one is marked space heater and is the same as an ordinary domestic on/off switch, the other is a panel that has various settings, 500w, 1000w and 2000w, plus a thermostat type ring for setting temp.
i cant get my head around how to work this set up properly, if i want to use the heater without the blown air what settings di i use ? is it just a matter of switching on the bottom panel with the space heater switch ? and do i have to have the switch on the heater set to the left for manual, set to the right for auto, or will the heater operate with the switch in the middle position ?. every time i try it, there is no heat whatever coming from the heater, the only way i can get heat is if i use both panels and have the fan blowing the air out of the vents, can i not shut the vents, or switch them off so that the heat comes from the heater ?,
sorry if i sound like an eejit, but the handbooks dont give much info.
hope you understand what im trying to ask, kinda hard to explain with type, i know it will be simple, but until someone tells me, i will freeze.
cheers.
btw, when i switch everything off, i can feel some heat from the space heater, wierd .
first and foremost, remember i am the newbie in here and what might seem puzzling to me will be obvious to you folks.
my caravan is an abbey aventura 2001 model with the truma space heater and blown air system, there are two switch panels at the bottom panel of the right hand front seat, one is marked space heater and is the same as an ordinary domestic on/off switch, the other is a panel that has various settings, 500w, 1000w and 2000w, plus a thermostat type ring for setting temp.
i cant get my head around how to work this set up properly, if i want to use the heater without the blown air what settings di i use ? is it just a matter of switching on the bottom panel with the space heater switch ? and do i have to have the switch on the heater set to the left for manual, set to the right for auto, or will the heater operate with the switch in the middle position ?. every time i try it, there is no heat whatever coming from the heater, the only way i can get heat is if i use both panels and have the fan blowing the air out of the vents, can i not shut the vents, or switch them off so that the heat comes from the heater ?,
sorry if i sound like an eejit, but the handbooks dont give much info.
hope you understand what im trying to ask, kinda hard to explain with type, i know it will be simple, but until someone tells me, i will freeze.
cheers.
btw, when i switch everything off, i can feel some heat from the space heater, wierd .
You asked this question yourself in Technical on Dec 4th, I answered at length but you did not reply with any queries?
There are three separate but somewhat interlinked controls, two on the wall/bed box ect, the fan control switch is mostly on the top of the fire but can also be wall mounted
1, mains isolation switch
2, heat control switch
3, fan control
It's likely if things are not making sense of themselves that something is not working as it should.
There are three separate but somewhat interlinked controls, two on the wall/bed box ect, the fan control switch is mostly on the top of the fire but can also be wall mounted
1, mains isolation switch
2, heat control switch
3, fan control
It's likely if things are not making sense of themselves that something is not working as it should.
nae need to be stroppy about me asking again buddy, i read yer reply in the other thread but still couldnt get the giest of it.
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