80w Solar Panel

[darrenvolvo1]

Hi i need some help. fitted a 80w solar panel to the roof of my van. Also fitted a mppt regulator. Bought a new battery 110 amp to go with the system. used the caravan in the summer and through early wainter and worked really well.
The caravan has been parked up for last 7 weeks and when i checked the volt meter battery was dead. Plugged in the charger and shot to 14v and the green charge light on the solar reg lit up. Removed battery and charged over 2 days and carried out a drop test in work and battery came back ok.
refitted battery to caravan and put meter across and check charge from panel and showing 13.4v. i have checked the van and everything is off. The only item it supplys is the alarm.
The question is only one of those things or has anybody eles had this problem and last but not least any suggestions.

Darren

 

[JTQ]

I would be measuring the solar cells current input to the battery. the easiest way I find is to use my Maplin automotive current tester:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/400mm-automotive-current-tester-max-n48cy
On a bright day using light reflected off the clouds your panel should be giving at least 0.5 amp.
There are reports of fake MPPT controllers on the auction market, make sure yours is doing something.
With my tester I would then see what the drain is on the battery from the alarm etc. If this is more than a quarter of your cell's output then I would be expecting things to be going wrong.
Even an 80 Watt roof mounted panel could easily be inadequate over the last month.

 

[BernardinTring]

Evening,
I am having a similar problem despite a new Banner battery being fitted and only lasting sixteen days before wanting a recharge. In addition to the Sargent alarm I have a Phantom Tracker. Posted to Techical on 3rd December 2013 under 'Solar Panel @ Phantom Tracker. Still tring to sort out and prior to reading thread also purchased the Maplinsautomotive current tester.
Silly question please JTQ as you seem to know about these things, just how do you take a reading from the solar panel with thing? I ask as the green charge light is on, the three red lights indicating battery ok appear to be working and the two fuses are gigantic blue spades, the blades of which 'appear' to be bigger than the standard blades.
oh if only I knew want I was doing!
Bernard

 

[JTQ]

Bernard:
The Maplin Automotive current tester has a plug, just like
the prongs of a “blade” fuse * and this plug is put into the fuse holder where
you want to measure the current. It requires that the removed fuse be placed in
a fuse holder that is on the side of the testers plug. It matters not a jot
which way round the plug is inserted, the tester is smart enough to sort out
the current flow direction issue.
Set up as described the circuit then works away happily
unaffected by the fact the tester is in there, and protected by the original
fuse so can be left as part of the system if that is convenient. I had that set
up initially on my first solar system so I could periodically check its performance.
That is the set up; to check the current all you need to do
is switch on the rocker switch on the tester and the current flowing will be
shown on its little LCD screen, job done. However don’t simply leave it
switched on endlessly as it then is drawing power from a little internal 12-v
cell that is housed in the testers head. The cell is one readily replaceable
from the Duracell range used in cameras etc and found in many supermarket
displays, so no big issue. You need a micro screwdriver when the cell is
finally replaced but they last ages used carefully.

That is the device and how it is used, now we come to where.
In the solar cells case there should be a fuse
assembly in the feed from the solar cell’s controller to the battery, hopefully
a blade one of the right size and typically it will be in the positive feed. If
not then it’s a trip to Halfords or Maplins for a holder plus a packet of fuses
and wiring it in. A 10 Amp fuse suits solar panels up to 100 Watts.
The other place needing checking so you can see the
quiescent drain from the battery and the drains caused by items used in the van
is the fuse holder in the van’s feed from the battery to its main distribution
panel. This may as mine is be located in-line by the battery in the positive cable, but if
the controller is close to the battery putting only a short length of cable at
risk could be one of the main panels fuses.
Looking at these two places you can see the current yielded
by the solar cell and drawn by the caravan and start making assessments of the
situation.

Note the Tester is rated up to 20 Amps, quite a thumping big
current in caravan terms; it will not suit the mover but then the mover will
not be on such a puny fuse format.

* Note there are two possible
fuse sizes and testers sold by Maplins to suit. The probability is the wider
type with 1/4" blades is used but check first. I think they call them Mini
and Maxi, the ¼” is Maxi.

Dont spoil that lovely Banner battery by draining it too much, and certainly leaving it somewhat drained, even the best are easily ruined!

 

[BernardinTring]

Many thanks JTQ for such a detailed and informative explanation, plus prompt response. It is very much appreciated.
Fortunately I do have the correct sized Tester.
Just to clarify this is a new van out of the Coachman stable and it is they who have fitted the 80w solar panel to the roof and I would expect/anticipate that any fuses etc required would be provided and in the correct place. My suspicion is that for some reason, it is the Phantom Tracker which is depleting the battery far quicker than I had anticipated, Their earlier version allowed me some four to six weeks grace before any change, then no a flat battery and no solar panel to assist: progress, I'm not too sure!
When the weather improves I'll go down again with the little gadget and play. Like a lot of people there is a fair amount of water about at present but the van is safe. It is just getting to it.
Fortunately whilst in one way it is a pain in the proverbial, having the Phamtom Tracker, they have an internet site which allows you to no only monitor the actual location of the van, but twice a day, if required, the GPS gives a current battery reading. At least I can keep a regular eye on the drain and level.
Once again, many thanks.
Bernard in Tring

 

[Surfer]

Not sure what caravan you have, but on the Lunar if you do not switch off the master switch, there are appliances that drain the battery in addition to the Phanton tracker.

 

[bertieboy1]

JTQ ,
Don't understand your reply
" With my tester I would then see what the drain is on the battery from the alarm etc. If this is more than a quarter of your cell's output then I would be expecting things to be going wrong."
Why should the current taken by "alarm etc" be less than a quarter of the cell current to be in good working order,Using your figures - 1/4 0f 0.5amps is 0.125Amps leaving 0.375 Amps to trickle charge the battery.
What component is "going wrong" in your estimation - the battery?,regulator or solar panel.
The amount of current being taken by the load is determined by the load.

 

[JTQ]

JTQ ,
Don't understand your reply
" With my tester I would then see what the drain is on the battery from the alarm etc. If this is more than a quarter of your cell's output then I would be expecting things to be going wrong."
Why should the current taken by "alarm etc" be less than a quarter of the cell current to be in good working order,Using your figures - 1/4 0f 0.5amps is 0.125Amps leaving 0.375 Amps to trickle charge the battery.
What component is "going wrong" in your estimation - the battery?,regulator or solar panel.
The amount of current being taken by the load is determined by the load.

Simple really in that even on a bight day using reflected
light off the clouds I would as I suggested at this time of the year expect to
see about 0.5 Amps but zero at night and less than 0.5 on a miserable day.
So lets say 6 hours a day at 0.5 Amps yields 3Ahs of charge.
However the drains such as the alarm plod on day and night
and irrespective of the weather. That is
24 hours being four times as long as the 6 hours we were charging.
So if we have that 3Ahs
that is consumed by a drain of 3Ah/24hours
=0.125 Amps which is a quarter of the current we see from the solar cell when
it is in bright winter light.

If the drain was anything like 0.125 Amps things are set to
run down the battery in other than unusually good weather.

An istallation I advised on has a 90 Watt panel but set at 50 odd degrees to horizontal but facing south; that when the weather is good yields a lot higher than the 0.5 Amps I would expect if it was flat.

 

[BernardinTring]

In response to Surfer, the Caravan is a 2014 Coachman and in a way I think you are right although at the moment I do no know what is to blame; still trying to sort it out. Although there is what is simplistically called a 'Master Switch' in my view it is something of an incorrect definition. It is a digital contraption, no switches on/off, just displays, press once on, press again off. And the display gives the appropriate reading. But it still leaves the digital clock and I 'think' other 'controls' items.
There is however, or so it appears, NO switch which turns off the complete thing with the exception of just the Sargent Alarm or Phantom Tracker.
Not sure what make of control unit Coachman fit, but following a conversation with a very helpful guy in the Sargent technical, their similar control units do have a facility for a total turnoff of all, but their alarm and if necessary a tracker
As they say, progress, one step forward, two steps backwards!
Bernard in Tring

 

[BernardinTring]

After a number of torturous weeks and help not only from this forum, but together with considerable help and able assistance from representatives of Phantom Tracker and Sargent Alarms the culprit of this fiasco of having to change tthe battery every twelve to fourteen days has been traced to the omission of a ten amp in-line fuse which was not inserted by the dealership at the PDI stage. Coachman supply the fuse, tape it with black insulating tape to a black harness and only a small area of the blade can be seen down amongst other wiring. Easily missed but oh So simple when you know how and where to look.
I now know the solar panel in charging. Oh the importance of a little red ten amp fuse should never be underestimated!!!
Bernard in Tring

 

[Surfer]

It also demonstrates the lack of a proper PDI befroe a custoemr collects the caravan. More than likely the dealership would have been notified about the culprit at some point, but it was overlooked probably as a PDI was never done|!

 

[rcpilot]

If your battery is a true deep cycle leisure battery one thing that you must NOT do and that is apply a drop tester to it you will damage the battery,how? ordinary 12v batteries are made with thin plates to enable a large current to flow instantaniously (for starting a car) leisure batteries have thick plates to enable a steady low current to flow for a long time so you will buckle the plates applying a load that requires a high current such as a drop tester.