AKS 3004

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I am having an issue with the handle which allows the hitch to snap onto the tow ball. It will not stay up prior to clipping it over the top ball. Same when you come to disengage. I am wondering the friction pads need replacing. caravan was serviced by dealer in late Nov and has only done one trip since then.

ALKO 3004a.jpg
 
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I can not see what the pads have to do with it staying up. But although it may be inconvenient. This will not affect its operation.

John
 
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Jun 20, 2005
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The Coupling handle,the problem one, has nothing to do with the stabiliser handler so I can’t see how the friction pads are a cause. But see my later comment.
Is this a random or every time issue? When you pull the Coupling up do you feel a spring resistance? Carefully feel or look under the hitch is there a foreign body in the way? Has a pad become displaced? Unlikely but just eliminating issues.. You don’t need me to refer you to an AWS if the problem isn’t obvious. Has the side locking pin become seized? Best of luck , never a good time for these type of issues
 
Oct 17, 2010
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Had the same on my last van. I found that if I cleaned under the hitch handle, washing it with plenty of Brake cleaner it worked fine, After that when I cleaned the pads prier to hitching up I gave the hitch handle mechinisum a good wash as well.
 

JTQ

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DaveA1 IMO has the answer, I had the same issue as you both had and all that was required was a service of the latch mechanism, including in that I lubricated it moving bits.

Note very carefully not to lubricate anything whatsoever to do with the friction surfaces of any of the "pads", just the latch.
To make a good job, and explore what the issue was, I actually took the whole thing off, but this needs doing with care not to lose the front end of the shunting damper; that requires pushing the aft mounting bolt out with a draw bar diameter length "keeper"piece. I will see if I can find info on this.
However, I don't doubt knowing the underlying issue a decent clean up and lube will be effective without a whole proper service, though IMO these things if weather exposed need occasionally servicing, including the pad loading cams, though ours is 15 years old.

Edit: info added, see fig 20 for those important lubricating points on the latch.
AKS3004Handbook-5.jpgAKS3004Handbook-2.jpg
 
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DaveA1 IMO has the answer, I had the same issue as you both had and all that was required was a service of the latch mechanism, including in that I lubricated it moving bits.

Note very carefully not to lubricate anything whatsoever to do with the friction surfaces of any of the "pads", just the latch.
To make a good job, and explore what the issue was, I actually took the whole thing off, but this needs doing with care not to lose the front end of the shunting damper; that requires pushing the aft mounting bolt out with a draw bar diameter length "keeper"piece. I will see if I can find info on this.
However, I don't doubt knowing the underlying issue a decent clean up and lube will be effective without a whole proper service, though IMO these things if weather exposed need occasionally servicing, including the pad loading cams, though ours is 15 years old.


I would have thought that the dealer would have serviced the latch mechanism when the caravan was serviced recently? I am not brave enough to take it apart. LOL!

If we do not hold it up while dropping the hitch onto the tow ball, it will not drop onto the tow ball. If I lift the handle no issue. Once it has clamped over the tow ball, we always lower the jockey wheel to make sure that the connection is secure.

Not too much of an issue when lowering the hitch onto the towball, but a hassle when disengaging as when raising the hitch using the jockey wheel winder, you are also lifting the back of the car. Once you lift the lever it disengages.

More of an annoyance than a hindrance, but was wondering if there was an underlying issue that i was not aware of which is why I also asked whether about friction pads perhaps being worn or broken. I have never had this issue on any of our previous caravans.
 

JTQ

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I have now found the info I needed and added it, see where to lubricate, it's not too challenging to do in situ. I understand mobility issues like mine play a role but this one is not too awkward.

I would have thought that the dealer would have serviced the latch mechanism when the caravan was serviced recently?

Sadly, you have way more confidence in this trade than my experience both presonally and for those I have helped post "servicing", has yielded.
 
Oct 17, 2010
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DaveA1 IMO has the answer, I had the same issue as you both had and all that was required was a service of the latch mechanism, including in that I lubricated it moving bits.

Note very carefully not to lubricate anything whatsoever to do with the friction surfaces of any of the "pads", just the latch.
To make a good job, and explore what the issue was, I actually took the whole thing off, but this needs doing with care not to lose the front end of the shunting damper; that requires pushing the aft mounting bolt out with a draw bar diameter length "keeper"piece. I will see if I can find info on this.
However, I don't doubt knowing the underlying issue a decent clean up and lube will be effective without a whole proper service, though IMO these things if weather exposed need occasionally servicing, including the pad loading cams, though ours is 15 years old.

Edit: info added, see fig 20 for those important lubricating points on the latch.
View attachment 4543View attachment 4542
To tell you the truth, I used to smear a finger tip full of grease on the leaver latch after cleaning. Didn.t say anything in case I got told it's a no no.
 
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I suppose if others do as I do, ie give a good squirt of degreaser up into the tow hitch to hit all 4 friction pads, that will gradually remove any lubricant that's where it should be. Stopping the hitch lever from latching properly.
 
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I suppose if others do as I do, ie give a good squirt of degreaser up into the tow hitch to hit all 4 friction pads, that will gradually remove any lubricant that's where it should be. Stopping the hitch lever from latching properly.
It seems that the AKS 3004 only has 2 friction pads?
 

JTQ

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It seems that the AKS 3004 only has 2 friction pads?

Arguable, it has two side pads that the "loading" handle forces on the ball's flank, but it has two other pieces of the same type of friction material.

One of these, a round piece [two pence sized], sits in the rear shoe piece locking the ball in place; the piece the latch handle operates and this piece forms part of the "bearing" system that takes the "over run" loads and is loaded in reversing.

The other piece is a much larger piece that cups the ball at the hitch's front and top, and takes the "bearing" loads of the forward hauling, and the "nose-weight".

These by their material choice afford a bit of bearing friction, as well as excellent load carrying and their presence is vital in the whole design of this coupling.
 
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Jun 20, 2005
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I get all the comments so far but can’t understand what it stopping his hitch release clicking secure in the open position. I’ve never oiled or greased mine. Perhaps I’ve been lucky😉😉
 
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You're not the only one Dusty. Our U4 Seville has had the problem since new. It is almost impossible to get the handle to stay up when hitching up, but pull the handle up when preparing to unhitch and it stays there rock solid. If (with help) you can look underneath whilst the handle is being operaed you will see where the latching mechanism tries to push itself into to stop the handle dropping, but the shape of the associated face is not in keeping with the handle block, and it gets very dirty/greasy so brake cleaner is probably the only/best bet.
It isn't a problem, just a bit of a nuisance.
 

JTQ

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I get all the comments so far but can’t understand what it stopping his hitch release clicking secure in the open position. I’ve never oiled or greased mine. Perhaps I’ve been lucky😉😉

Yes.
Probably it has remained clean enough to catch, but lubricating it is part of Al-KO's published user information, as shown in my post #6. Fig 20.

Mine needed doing as it became intermittent on reliably latching "up".

Edit: if it does not latch "up" when uncoupled, as said it is not vital, but then requires you to interact with that handle to couple up, rather than the coupling automatically self-latching; with that nice clear reassuring "clonk" together with the handle automatically moving into the coupled position.
I am sure the "designer chappie", intended it to work automatically as they do out of the box. Plus, caravan hitch couplings not functioning quite properly, is not really where I want to be.
 
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Oct 17, 2010
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Not had a problem with new van. but at the moment it's nice and clean and slightly greased. surely it follows if you keep older hitches the same they would be fine.
 
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