Another Dometic Fridge not working on 12volts

May 30, 2024
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I realise that there have been many posts on this subject after trolling the web, some of it I get, most of it I don't.
Any help appreciated.....

So, I have 14.4 volts coming from pin 10 through the caravan wiring harness. The Fridge/Freezer works very well on gas and on 240volts.
But not alas on 12volts. Fuses all all good.

I have taken some readings from the electical contacts I can access and seem to only have 10.3volts coming out of the relay. My understanding of relays is that they
either work or they dont. 10.3 volts seems odd?

Do I have an issue within the unseen control box? And can anyone help please?

In anticipation
Chris
 

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JTQ

May 7, 2005
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I assume it is realised that on 12 volts it should only work when electrically coupled to the tow vehicle with its alternator pushing out something above 12 volts?
The installation should ensure only this can happen.
Apologises if all this is known.
 
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May 30, 2024
14
4
515
I assume it is realised that on 12 volts it should only work when electrically coupled to the tow vehicle with its alternator pushing out something above 12 volts?
The installation should ensure only this can happen.
Apologises if all this is known.
Hi, yes it's the cars alternator that's giving the 14.2 volts. Thanks.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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You do need to check the fridges 12V element is capable of working. If you can disconnect the 12V supply to the fridge and check the dc resistance of the element . The value you should see a reading in the order of 1 Ohm.

The reduced voltage at the relay, might indicate the cabling to the fridge is too small for the current which is causing the voltage drop.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Having disconnected the wires to the element I have measured a resistance of 0.80 ohms
Having given a bit more though to this issue, I am concerned at the elements 0.80 Ohms result. Unless you zeroed out the test lead resistance, or used four terminal measurement we need to consider that most multimeter test leads typically add about 0.1Ohm per lead to the measurement.

With a meter that can resolve to 0.01Ohms if you select the Ohms measurement and touch the tips of the leads I would expect you to see up to 0.2 (200milliOhms) resistance shown on the meter That represents 25% of the reading you made.

This revises the actual element resistance and could be as low as 0.6 Ohms.

Applying the basic electrical calculations shows that given a 12V dc supply the 0.6 Ohm element would draw (12V /0.6Ohm) = 20A! That would represent a power consumption of (12V x 20A) = 240W which is almost twice the typical 12V consumption. This seems unusual and questions the integrity of the element. - some of its coils might be shorting.

You tell us in your opening post you have measured 14.4V at Pin 10. I have to assume that was with the caravan disconnected to give you access to the pin 10. Importantly there would be no current flow through the circuit as the caravan was disconnected. This also means there would no current related voltage drop through the cars wiring.

You go on to tell us that you have measured the voltage on the fridges wired connection at a relay, and you measure only 10.3V. I have to assume you have reconnected the caravan to the tow vehicle with its engin e running, so what this means is that somewhere between pin 10 of the cars socket and the relay output there is a voltage drop of 14.4 -10.3 = 4.1V. This is far more than is reasonable to expect, especially if as you tell us the fridge does not work when powered by the 12V circuit, the implication that it is not using any "12V "power.

A 4.1V drop suggests that current is flowing and is interacting with the wire resistance, or other resistances in the circuit, but as the fridge circuit should be isolated enough current to cause a 4.1V drop is something major.

If my assumption describe above about the resistance of the fridges element is correct, it suggests an excessively high current could have been flowing in the circuit. If this was passing through a relay that was not rated to carry such a large current, the relays contacts could have been damaged and now present a high resistance (relatively speaking) contact. This now prevent s enough current reaching the fridge element.

You need to confirm the fridge elements condition, and that may require a approved fitter. You should also have the "relay" checked to see if tis functioning correctly.

Good luck
 
May 30, 2024
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Thanks Prof, all of your assumptions are correct regarding the tests I carried out. From what little experience I have with relays, I am led to understand that they either work or don't, so I think my next move is to replace the heating element, checking connections along the way once I have the fridge out.

I have some mechanical experience having restored several motorcycles and a 1971 Series IIA Land Rover. In case you are interested.........

View: https://youtu.be/i5LiykP3UU0?si=ZahwtwgqJvaCHOWO


I had the fridge out of my last caravan because it wouldn't work in the heat of a British summer? Just when you need it!
I installed a fan to help keep it and the beer cold.

Thanks again for taking the time to do the callcs and help me with this. I will update on the outcome when it's resolved.
 

JTQ

May 7, 2005
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Well I think 0.8 Ohms is in the right order, our present fridge having 170 Watt elements, actually for both 12 VDC and the mains.
A previous one I recall was 120 Watts

Remembering my Ohm's law, from college 60 odd years ago, hopefully!

I=V/R =12/0.8= 15 Amps

I x V= Watts= 15 x 12= 180 Watts

So rated more or less in the right order?

I certainly would not be stripping out the element on the evidence so far.
 
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JTQ

May 7, 2005
3,994
1,743
20,935
Well I think 0.8 Ohms is in the right order, our present fridge having 170 Watt elements, actually for both 12 VDC and the mains.
A previous one I recall was 120 Watts

Remembering my Ohm's law, from college 60 odd years ago, hopefully!
Using the DC at a nominal 12 Volts:

I=V/R =12/0.8= 15 Amps

I x V= Watts= 15 x 12= 180 Watts

So rated more or less in the right order?

I would not be stripping out the element on the evidence so far.
 
Last edited:
Mar 14, 2005
19,080
4,284
50,935
Well I think 0.8 Ohms is in the right order, our present fridge having 170 Watt elements, actually for both 12 VDC and the mains.
A previous one I recall was 120 Watts

Remembering my Ohm's law, from college 60 odd years ago, hopefully!
Using the DC at a nominal 12 Volts:

I=V/R =12/0.8= 15 Amps

I x V= Watts= 15 x 12= 180 Watts

So rated more or less in the right order?

I would not be stripping out the element on the evidence so far.
I had concerns about the accuracy of the Ohms reading as explained in my post at #16, that makes a considerable difference, and could explain some of the other odd readings Lost in Time may have found.

Obviously I can't be 100% sure, as I can't pop out and check for myself.
 

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