I have had this oven since new in 2017. It has never worked as it should & I have had it looked at professionally 3 times. From day 1 the flame would not go very high & food stuff would not cook sufficiently & it took an age. I had it checked out & was told it reaches the temperatures, but it takes ages to get to them. I persevered for 3 years before asking a different engineer if he would check it out. He found metal fray in the burner & cleaned it out. It was fine for about 5-10 uses then the flames dropped again & it was useless. I had another engineer look at it again & he found gunge in the Jet. Cleaned it & all was good again for 1 use. As you can imagine I’m now annoyed having to keep paying out so I bit the Bullet & looked at it myself. I took the Burner out & all was good. I was unsure of going further & I didn’t want to take any risks with a gas appliance so I just poked around gently inside of the Jet & low & behold it did the trick all working good again. About 3-4 uses later it fails again. This time I ain’t messing around any more & I got spanner’s & removed the Jet & found a piece of what looked like fray wedged behind the Jet on the gas pipe side. I removed it & put everything back as it was. Now the oven lights with a very strong blue flame but it doesn’t adjust from the knob. I tried leaving it to see if it automatically drops on reaching the temperature but it didn’t. I cleaned the Thermocouple lightly with emery paper which didn’t improve it. And that is where I am at now. Can anyone throw any light in this please?
Aspire SCK23 Oven Issues
- Thread starter Redgey
- Start date
- Mar 14, 2005
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Hello Redgey,
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you for the fairly detailed report which lays out your experience and actions.
The symptoms suggest to me that some sort of residue is in the gas supply piping which over time has managed to migrate through the control valve and down to the oven burner. The fact the same problem has continued to arise despite several cycles of cleaning supports the notion the residue could still be present in the gas feed pipe.
In the past there have been problems with incorrect flexible pipes used in gas cylinder connections producing a residue which blocked up some makes of gas regulators. If the residue got past the regulator, it could affect other appliance's in the installation. It usually affected the lowest appliance which tended to be the water heaters.
The residue theory might also explain the failure of the temperature control to reduce the gas flow as temperature rises.
If the cylinder pigtail is incorrect it needs to be replaced. If the contamination has got passed the regulator, the pipe work either needs to be cleaned out (which is often difficult) or replaced. This potentially could affect all the appliances but without a thorough inspection its impossible to know.
If i'm correct I'm disappointed the fitters you have employed failed to notice it.
I presume you have th e evidence that you have called several "expert's" to
look at the problem, becasue it seems you might have a case under the Consumer Rights Act (CRA) against the seller. I am aware there is a time limit on liability, but assuming each time you reported the problem to the seller, that resets the time limit.
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you for the fairly detailed report which lays out your experience and actions.
The symptoms suggest to me that some sort of residue is in the gas supply piping which over time has managed to migrate through the control valve and down to the oven burner. The fact the same problem has continued to arise despite several cycles of cleaning supports the notion the residue could still be present in the gas feed pipe.
In the past there have been problems with incorrect flexible pipes used in gas cylinder connections producing a residue which blocked up some makes of gas regulators. If the residue got past the regulator, it could affect other appliance's in the installation. It usually affected the lowest appliance which tended to be the water heaters.
The residue theory might also explain the failure of the temperature control to reduce the gas flow as temperature rises.
If the cylinder pigtail is incorrect it needs to be replaced. If the contamination has got passed the regulator, the pipe work either needs to be cleaned out (which is often difficult) or replaced. This potentially could affect all the appliances but without a thorough inspection its impossible to know.
If i'm correct I'm disappointed the fitters you have employed failed to notice it.
I presume you have th e evidence that you have called several "expert's" to
look at the problem, becasue it seems you might have a case under the Consumer Rights Act (CRA) against the seller. I am aware there is a time limit on liability, but assuming each time you reported the problem to the seller, that resets the time limit.
I have a I think is Aluminium Pig Tail I bought it a few years ago when Calor had some issues with gas clogging up regulators. It was recommended as supposed to a Rubber one. I have never had issues with the other gas appliances neither.
- Jul 18, 2017
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This has raised a very valid point with the Truma regulator becoming clogged however than only seems to happen after a few years. As the OP has run out of options, it may be worth considering replacing the bulkhead regulator to see if it makes any difference?
Did that last year to see if that was the problem. Someone has suggested removing the regulator & blowing the system from inside with an air compressor
- Jul 18, 2017
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Not sure if that will help because if gas does get through when lit how will compressed air help as surely the burner needs to be open and lit? Maybe disconnecting the gas pipe from the burner would help? Does the fridge work okay on gas? Unfortunately not a gas expert so can only offer suggestions.
- Mar 14, 2005
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If the previous pigtail was of the type that leeched out its plasticiser, then whilst changing it was a good thing, but if it had already dropped its goo into the pipe work, and the pipework wasn't cleaned out, the goo could continue along the pipework and contaminate months or years later
I must stress this is only an assumption, and it may be something else. The fact that other appliances have not failed (especially the more susceptible water heater) it suggests my suspicion may not be correct.
Just as apoint of note, the thermostat usually integral with the gas control valve, so a new control valve should include the thermostat. BEing gas components its important they are fitted correctly, and for safety the system needs to be checked. Unless you are gas qualified its advisable to have it done by a professional in accordance with the code of practice.
- Jun 20, 2005
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Redgey,
Not an uncommon problem.
My caravan , from new 15 years ago had the same issues. To this day similar problems arise as yours has done😥.
Mine was the grille but the principle is the same as the oven.
Have you ever found rusty residue dust after storage from the top hob burners?
I discovered two things 6/7 years ago.
1. The gas feed piping from the mains , including all the cooker pipework was inferior product . When not in use it rusted internally . Movements dislodged the debris and you are now experiencing the results. I had the unit out , cleaned all the pipes in a detergent , but only worked correctly for a while.
2. At my own expense I purchased new pipes and hey ho part of the problem was solved.
3. Further research revealed a range of gas jets were being used by the manufacturer. They are easily bought on line . I purchased the largest approved jets and no problems since. Whatever you do , do NOT go outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations.
4. I can only conclude , any debris rusting of the new pipes is minimal and with the maximum approved jet size any debris passes through and gets burnt.
I have to add the usual rider, if you are not qualified get an LPG expert to do it for you .
Not an uncommon problem.
My caravan , from new 15 years ago had the same issues. To this day similar problems arise as yours has done😥.
Mine was the grille but the principle is the same as the oven.
Have you ever found rusty residue dust after storage from the top hob burners?
I discovered two things 6/7 years ago.
1. The gas feed piping from the mains , including all the cooker pipework was inferior product . When not in use it rusted internally . Movements dislodged the debris and you are now experiencing the results. I had the unit out , cleaned all the pipes in a detergent , but only worked correctly for a while.
2. At my own expense I purchased new pipes and hey ho part of the problem was solved.
3. Further research revealed a range of gas jets were being used by the manufacturer. They are easily bought on line . I purchased the largest approved jets and no problems since. Whatever you do , do NOT go outside of the manufacturer’s recommendations.
4. I can only conclude , any debris rusting of the new pipes is minimal and with the maximum approved jet size any debris passes through and gets burnt.
I have to add the usual rider, if you are not qualified get an LPG expert to do it for you .
Sorry the pig tail was bought before I had this caravan & there were no issues before that. I wasn’t sure if this oven was one where the flame keeps at full power until it reached the temperature & then the flame dropped?
This sounds logical I can’t say I have ever noticed any rust or dust & never had any issues with the Hobs or Grill. I am going to a Caravan service centre tomorrow for some gas so I may ask them to take a look at it.👍
- Jun 16, 2020
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Love that bit, made me smile.
Welcome to the forum.
I would agree that blowing through with an airline might help. But only it the jets were removed first so that any debis can escape.
The thermocouple only keeps the flame alive, it appears to work fine, cleaning it will not help.
John
- Jul 15, 2008
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IMO......since the grill and hobb have always worked without problems then from your description the evidence points to a faulty oven flame controller/thermostat.
Thanks. I used the oven today just to see how it performed. I baked Chips on a large tray on the top shelf & Fish on the lower tray wrapping it in tinfoil in case of it burning. The chips cooked fine but the fish was still cold after 30 mins. Could this be because the flame was high & only heating the top part of the oven?
- Mar 14, 2005
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It will depend on the method chosen by the appliance manufacture, Basically they will fall into two types, Modulation and On/Off temperature control
Traditionally and the most common system is the modulation of the gas flow which uses a "wax filled copper phial" as a temperature sensor inside the oven which is connected by a capillary tube to the gas control valve. As the phial warms up the wax melts and expands, and the expansion will act inside the gas valve to reduce the gas flow. This type of system usually has a separate section of the burner that acts as a pilot light which stays burning, to ensure the main burner will reignite when the oven temperature falls and the valve readmits or increases the gas to the main burner. In this type of oven you might be able to see the size of the flame change. To start this tupe of heating you normally have to depress the gas valve and hold it for about 10 seconds for the flame failure system to warm up.
Less common is the On/Off control. This is simpler for the user , but more complex to design and in its operation, becasue the control has to provide full function gas and ignition control and safety lockouts. Once set the gas burns at full rate until a temperature sensor tells it to turn off, and it turns the gas completely off so the flame goes out. As the temperature drops in the oven the sensor calls for heat, and the control system has to not only turn the gas on and cause a spark ignitor to work, it has to monitor for flame failures as it can't use the convention thermocouple system of the modulation system.
- Jun 16, 2020
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Sounds dramatic. Convection should cause enough circulation for better than that. But gas ovens have always been poor in the tempeture differences. But yours sounds extreme. We always keep switching things around.
John
Thanks. I did have the top shelf covered by a large tray so may have restricted the heat circulation. I think I will just get it looked at again.
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