I have just returned from France where, of course, I had to apply beam benders to my towcar. Despite my best efforts to follow the instructions, I clearly didn't apply them quite right and annoyed the oncoming drivers with my bright lights. Apparently car lights used to have markings to show where the beam benders should be applied, why did this stop being the case I wonder, and does anyone have any tips on their correct application?
Beam benders
- Thread starter claudia-dowell
- Start date
Damian
Moderator
The days of markings on headlights have long gone, sadly.
They were ok with the old style filament bulbs but the newer HID and Xenon lights produce a lot of heat and problems were found in overheating of the Perspex that replaced glass as headlight covers.
Many newer cars have a lever or similar that can be set to adjust the beam. others simply have nothing but a complete change of headlight unit, which is frighteningly expensive.
This article may help you: http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights
They were ok with the old style filament bulbs but the newer HID and Xenon lights produce a lot of heat and problems were found in overheating of the Perspex that replaced glass as headlight covers.
Many newer cars have a lever or similar that can be set to adjust the beam. others simply have nothing but a complete change of headlight unit, which is frighteningly expensive.
This article may help you: http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Car-Headlights
claudia-dowell said:
I did have the same problem when fitting them to our car. There was a diagram on a leaflet in the packet but it was not easy and still not sure how accurate I was.
This may be a problem on the way out. When buying a virtually new Freelander 3+ years ago, the book showed a lever on the back of the headlights to make the necessary change. No such lever was present on the car.
Challenged the dealer, who said that many new cars (2013 onward) have a different dipping pattern than before which is a European standard. The dip pattern is symmetrical rather than deflecting to the left for UK and right for Europe. Checked this out at home against garage doors at night and, yes, the dip pattern is as described.
The dipping mechanism is interesting. The headlamp bulb is a single filament halogen. The lamp unit has a small rotary shutter which comes from the top down wards a few mm. when dipswitch is operated. Rather like an uppper eyelid but not, of course, going all the way. If you listen carefullyyou can hear a clunk as the solenoid operates. The whole headlamp units can be adjusted up or down from a control just to the right of the steering column.
This idea reminded me of my first ever car, a 1938 Talbot 10 . Dipping extinguished the off-side headlight altogether and moved the whole reflector behind the nearside bulb. When I took it to France on my student exchange trip, I exchanged the interiors of the two headlignts and extended the wiring. The mechanism had offset pivot positions so you could make the beam dip either right or left.
I have no idea whether other recent vehicles use the system the Freelander has, but I would not be surprised as it is simple and pretty cheap to make. It could probably work with Zenon units too. To change bulbs on the Freelander you have to remove the entire headlight unit, but i have to admit this is actually easier than fumbling about at the back of the installed unit.
Challenged the dealer, who said that many new cars (2013 onward) have a different dipping pattern than before which is a European standard. The dip pattern is symmetrical rather than deflecting to the left for UK and right for Europe. Checked this out at home against garage doors at night and, yes, the dip pattern is as described.
The dipping mechanism is interesting. The headlamp bulb is a single filament halogen. The lamp unit has a small rotary shutter which comes from the top down wards a few mm. when dipswitch is operated. Rather like an uppper eyelid but not, of course, going all the way. If you listen carefullyyou can hear a clunk as the solenoid operates. The whole headlamp units can be adjusted up or down from a control just to the right of the steering column.
This idea reminded me of my first ever car, a 1938 Talbot 10 . Dipping extinguished the off-side headlight altogether and moved the whole reflector behind the nearside bulb. When I took it to France on my student exchange trip, I exchanged the interiors of the two headlignts and extended the wiring. The mechanism had offset pivot positions so you could make the beam dip either right or left.
I have no idea whether other recent vehicles use the system the Freelander has, but I would not be surprised as it is simple and pretty cheap to make. It could probably work with Zenon units too. To change bulbs on the Freelander you have to remove the entire headlight unit, but i have to admit this is actually easier than fumbling about at the back of the installed unit.
Why do people never think of the practical method?
Put you vehicle in front of a wall or the garage doors at night and turn the headlights on.
Cover one headlight with a blanket or similar.
Look at the beam of the remaining light which will have an upwards 'blip' on the pattern towards the left.
Us a smallish piece of cardbroad or similar and move it around the front of the headlight until you find the point where the 'blip' disappears - make a not of that location.
Put a piece (or two) of black PVC tape over that point.
Repeat for the other headlight.
Take the vehicle out onto the road and position yourself to roughly where the head of a RHD driver would be at maybe 30-50m. Move around to make sure there is no bright spot shining in your eyes.
If all correct remove the PVC tape and replace with the beam obstructors.
Simples
Put you vehicle in front of a wall or the garage doors at night and turn the headlights on.
Cover one headlight with a blanket or similar.
Look at the beam of the remaining light which will have an upwards 'blip' on the pattern towards the left.
Us a smallish piece of cardbroad or similar and move it around the front of the headlight until you find the point where the 'blip' disappears - make a not of that location.
Put a piece (or two) of black PVC tape over that point.
Repeat for the other headlight.
Take the vehicle out onto the road and position yourself to roughly where the head of a RHD driver would be at maybe 30-50m. Move around to make sure there is no bright spot shining in your eyes.
If all correct remove the PVC tape and replace with the beam obstructors.
Simples
Woodentop said:
I have tried something similar but instead of a piece of card I tried holding the deflector against the headlamp in the suggested position. No matter where I positioned the deflector, there was still a kick-up although not as pronounced. In the end I just fitted the deflectors in the position shown on the accompanying literature and wound the lamps down on the internal adjustment.
Or just mask with tape and forget the deflector. Many of them are more blockers than benders anyway (try looking through one from the back).
My car has 'Intelligent Lighting', as do lots of newer cars; worth checking your vehicle. Simply scroll through the menu in the dash by the steering wheel controls and select which side of the road driving on. Job done. Usually do this on the ferry / chunnel before disembarking.
KeefySher said:
So-called 'Intelligent Lighting' where the dip can be remotely adjusted is usually associated with HID or LED lights - which the majority of 'normal' cars do not have. The upper end of the car market is a different matter.
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