carver fanmaster 5500 fault

Jun 19, 2010
7
0
0
Hi Guys looking help again if possible.

My heater works fine with gas but on the electric setting the fan works ok but there is no heat from it.

I opened up the heater slide switch for the temperature and it seems to be making good contact with the pcb board.

Also checked the connections and all seems fine.

Is there possibly a thermostat that go faulty in these or could it be something else?

Thanks in advance

Stephen & Joy
 
Mar 14, 2005
1,161
46
19,185
Actually relays on these fires rarely cause a problem, nor in this case does the slide switch, albeit taking it to bits is not wise and will often lead to faults in the future.

I would start with the 'kettle' type mains plug over the back, top right, this has a nasty habit of working loose and cutting the mains power.

Also check the OH has not switched it off at the isolation switch?!

The thermostats do very rarely fail and also plugs in to the main control box, top right, two thin black wires, unplugging it should get the fire to heat if indeed it's at fault.

A simple test for function is to switch the fire to heat only, now work the back slider up and down, if you can hear the relay clicking on and off then that's working.

Also, if you switch to 'fan only' and work the back slider and the fan speeds up to full speed, then there's unlikely to be anything wrong with the slide switch operation while on electric heating.
 
Mar 14, 2005
1,161
46
19,185
PS, all the light must work, individually, on the slide switch, one or more lights not working, or particularly one and three on dimly together is a fault
 
Jun 5, 2010
10
0
0
had a simular problem with my fan master(no heat on electric).I had spoken with Gary and confirmed that the relays and slider were working (thanks for the advice, gary).Everything seemed ok and i was really puzzled as to why it wouldn't heat. I confirmed i had resistance in the heating elements, relays were switching ok.

After much head scratching i put a meter into the kettle lead and discovered i wasn't getting 240v from the neutral side.I traced the fault back to the main fused on/off switch on the wall. The neutral wire had been clamped onto the insulation rather than the copper. There was also evidence of heat where the cable had been arcing when it did occasionaly work.I can only assume this had been like this since it was built (its 10 yrs old now).

if everything else seems ok check you have 240v getting to the fire (use a competant person if nessesary).

hope this helps..
 
Jun 19, 2010
7
0
0
had a simular problem with my fan master(no heat on electric).I had spoken with Gary and confirmed that the relays and slider were working (thanks for the advice, gary).Everything seemed ok and i was really puzzled as to why it wouldn't heat. I confirmed i had resistance in the heating elements, relays were switching ok.

After much head scratching i put a meter into the kettle lead and discovered i wasn't getting 240v from the neutral side.I traced the fault back to the main fused on/off switch on the wall. The neutral wire had been clamped onto the insulation rather than the copper. There was also evidence of heat where the cable had been arcing when it did occasionaly work.I can only assume this had been like this since it was built (its 10 yrs old now).

if everything else seems ok check you have 240v getting to the fire (use a competant person if nessesary).

hope this helps..
Cheers guys will try this out this evening and see if i can get to the bottom of it.

Regards

Stephen
 
Jun 19, 2010
7
0
0
had a simular problem with my fan master(no heat on electric).I had spoken with Gary and confirmed that the relays and slider were working (thanks for the advice, gary).Everything seemed ok and i was really puzzled as to why it wouldn't heat. I confirmed i had resistance in the heating elements, relays were switching ok.

After much head scratching i put a meter into the kettle lead and discovered i wasn't getting 240v from the neutral side.I traced the fault back to the main fused on/off switch on the wall. The neutral wire had been clamped onto the insulation rather than the copper. There was also evidence of heat where the cable had been arcing when it did occasionaly work.I can only assume this had been like this since it was built (its 10 yrs old now).

if everything else seems ok check you have 240v getting to the fire (use a competant person if nessesary).

hope this helps..
thanks for all your help guys, heater is now working, having tested all you suggested the fault was with the main control panel heater switch (by fault I mean my fault that I didn't have it switched on!!)feel pretty stupid now but as I said this is all new to me!

Thanks again

Stephen & Joy
 
Jun 19, 2010
7
0
0
thanks for all your help guys, heater is now working, having tested all you suggested the fault was with the main control panel heater switch (by fault I mean my fault that I didn't have it switched on!!)feel pretty stupid now but as I said this is all new to me!

Thanks again

Stephen & Joy
 

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts