Another way I have removed one of these leg bolts that spins is to apply an opposite force as in lever between the leg and the floor, this puts pressure on the nut and pulls the captive bolt head into the floor more, it can be a case of undo a bit, then tighten again, spray undo again and replete
Yes, refer to the link I gave in post #2, and re linked here for you, THIS ONE
You only need to knock out the roll pin that secures a collar on the leadscrew so it is free to wind itself out.
IMO you don't need to disturb the steady mount simply because its fixing nuts rotate.
That the whole steady assembly might not be tightly held does not alter its function, in use, it only "pushes upwards", something that does not require its fixing to be tightly secured. In the final analysis the steady fixing bolts only ensure the steady remains there and is correctly located, ready to be used!
In post #12 I suggested if the nuts are that lose the whole thing is rattling about fretting then jamming something between the nut and the steady can fix that issue.
Here I would file down a scrap of steel plate, I had shaped as a twin pronged fork, into a fine wedge; such that each leg of that fork slides between the nut and steady base taking up the offending clearance.
That is, tighten up that fixing by using another technique other than its screwed thread.
If the wedge it long enough a hole drill in its tail allows that to be fixed from coming out by a screw to the van's floor or into the steadies mounting plate. Also, if on assembly the wedge is wet with "Lock tight", "Permabond" or even just an oil-based paint, it is likely to fix it in place without any other securing.
IMO struggling to remove a nut where its bolt is free to turn will often simply increase the freedom of that fixing.
Way better if as here the bolt head can't be accessed. or the bolt replaced without leagues more invasive work, seek to achieve another solution to tighten the fixing. Particularly here where the bolting serves only to effectivly transport the steady about and locate it, playing little if any in use load carrying.
Plus gas is way better than WD40 you are absolutely correct.
I can't comment on PB but I recentlydiscovered Bulldog BDX. This stuff is amazing. A quick squirt on my MG brake calliper bolts that are notoriously difficult to remove worked wonders.
BDX 01 – Bulldog BDX – MDS | Lubricant Suppliers
A highly efficient versatile and effective lubricant/penetrating product, which incorporates the latest anti-friction/anti-wear technology, ceramic reinforced PTFE. Providing the ultimate in lubricating performance in any industrial environment, from heavy plant to golf courses. Bulldog BDX...
www.lubricantsuppliers.com
Plus gas is way better than WD40 you are absolutely correct.
I can't comment on PB but I recentlydiscovered Bulldog BDX. This stuff is amazing. A quick squirt on my MG brake calliper bolts that are notoriously difficult to remove worked wonders.
BDX 01 – Bulldog BDX – MDS | Lubricant Suppliers
A highly efficient versatile and effective lubricant/penetrating product, which incorporates the latest anti-friction/anti-wear technology, ceramic reinforced PTFE. Providing the ultimate in lubricating performance in any industrial environment, from heavy plant to golf courses. Bulldog BDX...
I assume you are referring to WD40 multi use lubricant/ water dispersant? As I’ve been using WD 40 penetrating oil and found it very good. Previously used Plus gas which was also good, but since I started buying the WD 40 penetrating oil I’ve found no reason to change. But my views are purely non scientific in so far as relative performance is concerned.
We have found graphite to be the better option as very little mess, but obviously for things that are working however a bit "sticky". Still use WD40 if something is stuck really tight.
Yes, I think most people thing of the general purpose one when you say WD40. I have no doubt that their penetrating oil is good, no one specifily mentioned the penetrating oil IIRC.
Please that you are happy with it,
I'm happy with Bulldog BDX and can see no reason for change either.
The big issue there with graphite or any other product that lubricates the threads and is used before tightening up, is the typically quoted "dry" torque up values go out of the window, often with bolts then worked overly stressed as a result.
If an unqualified or dry torque up value is quoted, as is so typically the case, then lubricating the threads should definitely be avoided.
Good, many though do, even on forums I have encountered "recommendations" to use the likes of "Copper grease", Moly and "graphited" greases on such as wheel securing bolts.
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Whitly56...Thanks for info, looked at the video thanks.
My problem is if i can't weld them to them then i would have vto bolt them somehow, thats my problem
My problem is if i can't weld them to them then i would have vto bolt them somehow, thats my problem
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