Corner steadies bent

[RayR]

I have a Bailey Pageant 16ft single axle van.
The previous owner must have sank on the door side of the van as both threaded rods in the steadies are bent and i can't wind then down.
So i thought i would remove them and replace with new ones, but when i tried to undo the nuts to get them off the bolts are rusty and can't be removed. I can cut them of but then have no bolts to attach the new ones to.
Was thinking of replacing with drop down steadies, has anyone done this and how do you attach then to the chassis?

 

[JTQ]

Is there an option to simply replace the lead screw? These are quite readily available as "spares".
The Al-Ko versions I know which I suspect Bailey have used the lead screw is retained by a "roll-pin" that holds a collar; best understood by viewing THIS video. Here he descibes it as a "cotter". If getting a replacement roll pin is at all challenging then as the chap there used a bolt with a locking nut is another readily available solution.

You might need to straighten the lead screw to remove it, blocks of wood and a "G" clamp could help here. If the resulting removal causes too much graunching then the nut also should be changed; but that adds to the task, quite a bit but is DIY "doable".

 

[Mr Plodd]

Nuts are readily available in just about any size and thread combination imaginable, so sourcing a couple of replacements is not exactly a difficult or herculean task.

 

[Buckman]

Nuts are readily available in just about any size and thread combination imaginable, so sourcing a couple of replacements is not exactly a difficult or herculean task.

I think the OP was concerned that if cutting off the bolts, they may not be able to replace them? I am not sure if it is possible to only cut off the nuts without damaging the bolts. Perhaps you can advise?

I woudl have thought that it is an area that is normally heavily greased when a service is done therefore function of the steadies would have been tested? Maybe the caravan is long overdue for a service of the running gear etc?

 

[JTQ]

I would be resisting removing a steady unless that is the only option, experience is little if any thought is given in designing vans for the access to such fixings. Nor to much else in respect to "designing", other than the styling!

 

[audiorob]

Do we assume that this is a demonstration of why corner steadies should never be used to level the van but as the name suggests to steady the van once it is levelled on blocks or ramps?
Good luck with the job in hand and as others I imagine the screw rod can be replaced without removal of the entire unit.
Perhaps contact with Alko or Bailey would confirm.

 

[Buckman]

Do we assume that this is a demonstration of why corner steadies should never be used to level the van but as the name suggests to steady the van once it is levelled on blocks or ramps?
Good luck with the job in hand and as others I imagine the screw rod can be replaced without removal of the entire unit.
Perhaps contact with Aldi or Bailey would confirm.

Why would Aldi be interested in a caravan repair? 😂 😂

 

[audiorob]

Why would Aldi be interested in a caravan repair? 😂 😂

Thankyou auto correct mistake now been corrected🫢

 

[RayR]

The problem is the nuts that hold the steady on are loose, i think the previous owner has tried to get it of. So i can't tighten them back up nor get them of. If i cut them off then the bolts go up through the floor so they can't be replaced becaus they are under the shower. Thats why i was thinking of replacing them with dropdowns if there was someway of attaching them

 

[Martin_E]

I have done this in the past by holding the thread with some pointed nosed mole gripss.

 

[GaryB]

Use a nut splitter to remove the nut then run a die-nut up the threads to clean them. For future use use PB Blaster as a penetrating fluid (from Amazon) as it regularly comes out top in rust releasing fluids

 

[JTQ]

Use a nut splitter to remove the nut then run a die-nut up the threads to clean them. For future use use PB Blaster as a penetrating fluid (from Amazon) as it regularly comes out top in rust releasing fluids

If the nuts are described as "loose" but assumed here also seized then that implies the bolts are free to turn, which is going to rather challenge die reforming their threads.

I would work around the issue of the loose nuts, without overly elaborating the job, that is make a workable enough fix of the direct problem than invite in any more issues, very much so as the shower sits over them.

If able to address the bent leadscrew issue so make the steady viable, I would fix the rattly fixings by filing up feather wedges in fork form to go under the loose nuts, from some steel plate and fix that secondary issue by driving them home. Load the steady so it is "stuffed" well up tight before driving the wedges home.

In use the nuts serve no load carrying purpose they just fix the steadies position and secure it in place when it is not in use, so have not particularly difficult role to achieve.
I would have put "Locktight" or a clone of such on the wedges before final fixing so they would not migrate out and get lost. Even drill through the wedge's tail into the steady foot and fix with a self-tapping screw if you want a belt and braces locking fix.

 

[GaryB]

I didn’t notice the second post from the OP, agreed, that’s a different challenge. However, I do recommend anyone to use PB Blaster before trying to undo anything rusty, it’s brilliant stuff!

 

[Mr Plodd]

Coo-eeee!
The captive nuts are turning, and they are hiddennunder the shower tray, so......
1. How do you propose you get to apply the magic potion to the recalcitrant nuts?
2. How do you grip said nuts in order to prevent them turning the bolt?

 

[GaryB]

Coo-eeee!
The captive nuts are turning, and they are hiddennunder the shower tray, so......
1. How do you propose you get to apply the magic potion to the recalcitrant nuts?
2. How do you grip said nuts in order to prevent them turning the bolt?

Seriously? Go back and re-read my post, I am recommending PB Blaster (as opposed to the usual WD40et-al) to anyone trying to undo anythng rusty, it's been well established and pointed out by JTQ that the bolts are spinning, no wonder potion on the planet will sort that, hence the obvious statement "I didn’t notice the second post from the OP, agreed, that’s a different challenge. "

 

[JTQ]

Coo-eeee!
The captive nuts are turning, and they are hiddennunder the shower tray, so......
1. How do you propose you get to apply the magic potion to the recalcitrant nuts?
2. How do you grip said nuts in order to prevent them turning the bolt?

Unless you know something not discussed here, I was reading that the OP could not undo the "nuts", so they were nuts, not "captive nuts" which are as the name implies fixed and can't be undone.

 

[GaryB]

Unless you know something not discussed here, I was reading that the OP could not undo the "nuts", so they were nuts, not "captive nuts" which are as the name implies fixed and can't be undone.

Yes, from memory the steadies are attached by bolts, the heads of which are held captive in the chassis extensions at the rear, the front I cannot remember but possibly coach-bolt style through the floor.

If the nuts cannot be undone, a nut splitter will work, or an angle grinder, or drilling through the wall of the nut, thus allowing the nut to be removed. That will allow the leg to be removed then a whole new world of fun will start trying to replace the bolt. I think an Alko chassis diagram could be found online which will help to pin-point the bolts.

Edit, found one! Caravan Genius: Classy Chassis and Excellent Axles - Practical Caravan

This is one of those problems where an easy-fix probably doesn't exist, so the main aim is to try and minimise any further damage, but I honestly think that removing internal furniture and the like will need to be done to sort the spinning bolt.

Again, anyone attempting to undo anything rusty, a good wire brushing followed by soaking in a good penetrating fluid will work wonders.

 

[Gafferbill]

......the threaded rods are made of very soft steel and it only needs a leg to be left down and then the forgetful driver to turn for the threaded rod to bend.
Guess how I know!!
Normally the rest of the leg escapes damage as it twists and will swing back into shape.
I was able to remove the greasy bent rod and very easily straighten it in a vice.
I didn't need to remove the whole steady.
I put the straightened rod back and it worked fine.

 

[Mr Plodd]

Oops!
Looks like it was medwho didn't read the post properly, sorry !

 

[Hutch]

......the threaded rods are made of very soft steel and it only needs a leg to be left down and then the forgetful driver to turn for the threaded rod to bend.
Guess how I know!!
Normally the rest of the leg escapes damage as it twists and will swing back into shape.
I was able to remove the greasy bent rod and very easily straighten it in a vice.
I didn't need to remove the whole steady.
I put the straightened rod back and it worked fine.

After an unfortunate incident leaving a pitch in France, I bent our threaded shaft, vice and hammer fixed it, when I got home , but it took another two years before the stay would travel up and down smoothly.

 

[Dustydog]

Gary B , as an aside I’ve never used PB Blaster. Grew up on Plus Gas penetrating fluid, light years ahead of WD40. Is the PB really good?
Bill’s fix seems the least invasive. JTQ hit the nail on the head caravan design is an engineering disaster😁

 

[GaryB]

Gary B , as an aside I’ve never used PB Blaster. Grew up on Plus Gas penetrating fluid, light years ahead of WD40. Is the PB really good?

Plus Gas used to be No.1 BUT PB Blaster (a US brand) has lead the way in various classic car magazine tests. I'm currently stripping a 1964 Triumph 2000 down to a bare shell that has sat unused since 1976 and it's absolutely brilliant stuff.

 

[otherclive]

Gary B , as an aside I’ve never used PB Blaster. Grew up on Plus Gas penetrating fluid, light years ahead of WD40. Is the PB really good?
Bill’s fix seems the least invasive. JTQ hit the nail on the head caravan design is an engineering disaster😁

WD 40 do make a dedicated penetrating oil that is now a regular part of my tool kit, as are their silicon spray and electric contact cleaner.

 

[Dustydog]

WD 40 do make a dedicated penetrating oil that is now a regular part of my tool kit, as are their silicon spray and electric contact cleaner.

How does it compare to plus gas? Gary obviously feels PB Blaster is now the market leader. I think I’ll try that first. Ordinary WD 40 is in the tool kit as I am sure all caravanners carry

 

[RayR]

Thanks for all replies
Can i remove the threaded rod without removing the whole steady, Havn't look at doing this, if i could do that i am shure i can, or an engineer shop can streaghten it. I could then look at fixing the steady to the shassis some how and not have to try and remove it. It only needs to be help up from dropping down.
Ray