Electrical problem

Feb 10, 2008
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We own a 1992 Sterling Eccles Elite Diamond, 2 berth

I had two jobs to do this winter, one was to put a 12v light above the cooker, as it was a bit dark in the pots and pans, the second was to replace the block of electrical connectors we have between the transformer and the leisure battery.

I turned off the mains power, and I disconnected the battery, this was when I noticed I had a broken battery clamp with I replaced, then not being good with electrics I was carefull to replace one wire at a time, when I came to the third connection of four, there was only one wire connected, with a red wire hanging free, I left the free wire and connected all the rest.

I then turned on the power, and nothing came on, so I connected the lose red wire as it certainly looked like it had just came out,...low and behold when the power came on everything worked, mains and 12v.

The only thing is that now when I turn on the new light above the cooker, I get a loud hum from the transformer that I didnt get before and also the red low battery light is on constantly

I took the battery indoors and put it on charge, but it was already fully charged

Can anyone help please

Stuart
 
Mar 14, 2005
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stuart, please confirm that the lamp can run ok direct from the battery i.e. without the charger on. If so does the battery low lamp come on when you switch the light on or do you mean it is showing low without the lamp being on.
 
Feb 10, 2008
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Hi Ray,

Thank you for getting back to me.

Until your message came through I had the mains cable connected, and assumed the 12v was working ok, but have just dis-connected the mains to check what you suggested, and find I have nothing at all, not a single light, in the caravan or on the control panel.

Stuart

Stuart
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Stuart, It would therefore appear that you have broken the circuit from the battery to the12v side of things. The reason for the humming of the charger is that it is possibly not man enough to power the 12v lights but is only a trickle charger.

My only suggestion, assuming you do not live near Poole when I would be happy to look at it, is to ask a friendly electrician to check it out for you. It is possible that you reconnected things incorrectly and have blown a fuse - in the circuit and possibly in yourself at this stage!

Depending on your competence you could purchase a simple voltage "stick" and trace it through from the batterey making a simple sketch as you go.

Ray
 
Feb 10, 2008
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Stuart, It would therefore appear that you have broken the circuit from the battery to the12v side of things. The reason for the humming of the charger is that it is possibly not man enough to power the 12v lights but is only a trickle charger.

My only suggestion, assuming you do not live near Poole when I would be happy to look at it, is to ask a friendly electrician to check it out for you. It is possible that you reconnected things incorrectly and have blown a fuse - in the circuit and possibly in yourself at this stage!

Depending on your competence you could purchase a simple voltage "stick" and trace it through from the batterey making a simple sketch as you go.

Ray

Thanks again Ray, I will do as you suggest,...we did have an electricain look at it yesterday, but at that time he didnt know that there was no power once the mains was disconected, but he did say that the battery was charging before it was disconnected,.. he did also admit that he know nothing of caravans and only looked at the battery box

Stuart
 
Jul 15, 2005
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Stuart,

A loud hum from the transformer is an indication that the transformer is trying to supply a higher current than it's design limit or possibly an open circuit - and since it was working before - it's an indication that the changes you made are the cause:

1. You may have a short in one of your new connections. Please check the new wiring terminal block - did you make a drawing of where each wire went?

2. You may have a poor connection at the battery clamp you replaced - please check that the wire is correctly fastened in the clamp - and that both clamps are making good contact.

3. Please check that the battery was replaced the right way round... And that the connections you made at the terminal block are the right way round..

Robert
 
Feb 10, 2008
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Thank you Ray, and Rob, I have just been out and checked the terminals on the battery and all the connections I made, I was rather pleased with myself that I had drawn a sketch of where wires were before I touch it

The battery is fully charge, I checked it with a meter I checked that that power was going into the block of connectors on the transformer,and that the battery is the right way around, I checked all fuses, three in the transformer and four in the control panel inside all are good.

I still have nothing at all if I remove the mains power, if I connect mains power I have mains lights, pump etc, and 12v lights, but the new 12v light that I fitted still makes the transformer hum loudly, there is also a main digital clock that is flickering madly, and the red low battery light is still on dispite knowing that the battery is fully charge,..[ I charge it indoors last night]

I would get hold of a caravan electrician if there were any around, byt there is not a lot I can call on being and hour west of Fort William

Stuart
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hi Stuart,

You don't have to have a caravan electrician to look at your problem any mobile auto electrician will sort it for you.The very best of luck to you.Jim
 
Jul 15, 2005
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OK - concentrate on the 12 volt light unit.

1. I assume the light unit has an on-off switch - does the transformer hum with the switch in either position - or only in the on position?

2. Remove the bulb and see if the transformer still hums?

These indicate a wiring fault in the unit, the switch or the connection to the supply.

3. With the bulb out - check the writing on the bulb - and just confirm that it is a 12 volt device.

And how did you connect the new light into the existing wiring - did you connect it across the live and return (possibly red and black) low voltage wiring? or did you just break into one of the wires and connect it in-line?

And the low battery light coming on - that's only when you switch on the new light? - that's an indication that that new circuit is taking way too much current, which has the secondary effect of dropping the voltage - and fooling the battery sensor circuit in the transformer / power pack.

Robert
 
Feb 10, 2008
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OK - concentrate on the 12 volt light unit.

1. I assume the light unit has an on-off switch - does the transformer hum with the switch in either position - or only in the on position?

2. Remove the bulb and see if the transformer still hums?

These indicate a wiring fault in the unit, the switch or the connection to the supply.

3. With the bulb out - check the writing on the bulb - and just confirm that it is a 12 volt device.

And how did you connect the new light into the existing wiring - did you connect it across the live and return (possibly red and black) low voltage wiring? or did you just break into one of the wires and connect it in-line?

And the low battery light coming on - that's only when you switch on the new light? - that's an indication that that new circuit is taking way too much current, which has the secondary effect of dropping the voltage - and fooling the battery sensor circuit in the transformer / power pack.

Robert
Thank you Jim, I will remember I didnt know that

Rob in answer to your questions.

1. The transformer only hums when the light is turned on,...and only that light,..no sound from any other 12v lights, even if than one is turned on at the same time

2.presume this was has been answered

3. yes the light unit and the bulb are both 12v

I connected the new light by connecting into the 12v shower room light just the other side of the wall,..it worked great before all this

The low battery light comes on automaticly when I switch on the control board inside [ the switches that have to be switched on for any opperation in the van]..normaly the light will come on for about a second then go out if the battery is fully charged, but now it will not go out at all,..and as I say the mains digital clock is flashing rapidly

Stuart
 
Jan 22, 2008
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Hi Mate

I would suggest that you have 2 lives and no neutral, if you have meter, test for 12v at the light, if you have no reading test one cable attach your other tp the earth, if you then get 12v, you do have 2 lives, if you have a 0 reading on both these tests you have 2 neutrals.

Where are you?
 
Jan 22, 2008
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Hi Again

Your second problem, is you have created another circuit, which has allowed the 12v to take another path, voltage will always take the easiest path, it sounds like your second circuit has created a circuit to the fault light.

Can you trace the odd wire?

Just guessing, the 12 volt terminal should have 1 wire thicker than the rest(to charger), 1 cable to operate lights and a middle sized for the fridge, this is purelu guess work.

If I had a diagram I could be of more help.

Regards
 
Feb 10, 2008
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Hi Richard,

i will do as you say and check what I can,..if it help you at all, the the wires from the charger are in a connection block of four,...I will number each connection

From the Right

1...red and Blue

2...yellow and red.. poss to battery

3...yellow and red,..this was the lose wire

4...black and two wires one white and one black,.. neg to battery

Hope I am helping

Stuart
 
Jan 22, 2008
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Hi Richard,

i will do as you say and check what I can,..if it help you at all, the the wires from the charger are in a connection block of four,...I will number each connection

From the Right

1...red and Blue

2...yellow and red.. poss to battery

3...yellow and red,..this was the lose wire

4...black and two wires one white and one black,.. neg to battery

Hope I am helping

Stuart
Hi

Somewhere in or around the battery charger there should be a plan, this will show you what coloured wires do what.

I take it there are 4 wires from the charger to a block, there should be 2 of those from the battery, these are the charging cables.

The other 2 should be the mains from the fuse box, giving 240 volt, that should be all the cables to and from the charger.

Your 12 volt circuits should be from the pos and neg, allowing the battery to be by passed if you use the 12 volt system.

You need to know the voltage on the cables, somewhere there is a 240 volt supplying the charger.

If you ring me on 07747441890, have a tester ready, or fax a drawing of what you have found to 01291 425590.
 
Feb 10, 2008
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Hi

Somewhere in or around the battery charger there should be a plan, this will show you what coloured wires do what.

I take it there are 4 wires from the charger to a block, there should be 2 of those from the battery, these are the charging cables.

The other 2 should be the mains from the fuse box, giving 240 volt, that should be all the cables to and from the charger.

Your 12 volt circuits should be from the pos and neg, allowing the battery to be by passed if you use the 12 volt system.

You need to know the voltage on the cables, somewhere there is a 240 volt supplying the charger.

If you ring me on 07747441890, have a tester ready, or fax a drawing of what you have found to 01291 425590.
I wish to thank all who took the trouble to help me,... today I printed off this thread, and took the Caravan into Fort William to an auto electrian, who fixed the problem, I am not sure what he did, I am not sure if I want to know, even if I could understand.

He read all your comments first, then fixed it, and only charged me
 

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