Hitching problem

[woodsieboy]

We have changed to 4x4 with rear door that opens, rather than previous hatch and tailgate. New car has spare wheel on the back. We are having problems with Al Ko stabiliser,I have taken off the red handle, and tried hitching with the door open, but the door catches on the jockey wheel handle, has anybody found an easy way to get round this problem. I have read that Al Ko will sell me a replacement handle, but as far as I can tell the replacement handle is left off the van when towing, am I correct or just missing something?

Thank you

 

[Lutz]

The handle that Alko refer to is a retrofit handle for the stabiliser arm, specifically for 4x4's:

http://217.199.186.71/shop/acatalog/4x4handle.jpg
However, you say you are having problems with the jockey wheel handle. I'm a bit confused because the stabiliser handle is usually in the way with the door shut and the jockey handle is more of a problem with the door open. If you have the handle pictured above, you shouldn't need to open the door any more.

 

[mickduck1]

hi keith i had the same problem as you i contacted alko they recommended trying to hitch having removed the red handle in the following manner.having "unlocked" the stabiliser leave both arms at approx 45% lower hitch onto towball slowly having lifted small black handle until it hitches up as normal.then put red handle back onto the two arms and press down locking stabiliser on. after trying this out a few times it worked a treat (no more mauling a big sparewheel on/off). however i found it even easier when i fitted a 25mm spacer bar try it both ways mate a spacer bar is just a few pounds wheras the replacement handle is

 

[David_5082711]

As a matter of interest, is this a problem with a Series 2 Discovery? (getting one shortly).

David

 

[woodsieboy]

Hi Lutz, The problem with the hitch is when the door is closed, the stabiliser fouls the spare wheel, when the door is open the door fouls the jockey wheel so that you cannot lower the hitch on to the tow ball. Close the door slightly and the stabiliser handle does not have enough room to lower into place. Jockey wheel is the sort that comes through the centre of the A frame not the side mount type.

 

[woodsieboy]

hi keith i had the same problem as you i contacted alko they recommended trying to hitch having removed the red handle in the following manner.having "unlocked" the stabiliser leave both arms at approx 45% lower hitch onto towball slowly having lifted small black handle until it hitches up as normal.then put red handle back onto the two arms and press down locking stabiliser on. after trying this out a few times it worked a treat (no more mauling a big sparewheel on/off). however i found it even easier when i fitted a 25mm spacer bar try it both ways mate a spacer bar is just a few pounds wheras the replacement handle is

 

[DavidW1]

Kieth,

On my trooper, I find that reversing up to the hitch with the rear door fully open solves the problem - just! Maybe this will work for you.

Firstly lock the coupling in place, secondly fully retract the jocky wheel and thirdly, release the clamp and press the jocky outer sleeve down as far as it will go. On my setup there is about 15mm clearance between the Jocky crank knob and the closing door. After the door is closed the outer sleeve is pulled fully up and clamped.

The sequence is of course reversed when un hitching.

My German Shepherd is completley unfazed and stays put during the operation although he has pointed out that if the spare wheel has to come off it aint going in with him!

 

[Eddie1FromNottingham]

Hi, Keith.

I had this problem when I swapped the 'Van for a Swift with a 2004 Hitch Stabilizer, the Car is a Shogun, rear mounted spare Wheel with Stainless Cover. The answer is a combination of replies on here. In my case opening the rear door doesn't work, Jockey Wheel won't allow door to close.

The way I overcame this problem was with a spacer Plate between Tow Bar and Ball I have a Witter Bike Rack and the Car Plate for this combined with a spacer was just right. Here I must point out that using a spacer or Bike Rack might invalidate the Type Approval of the Bar. Mine was a Witter Bar and the additions were done by the original Fitter and confirmed as type approved. This still didn't give me enough room so I removed the Red Handle on the Stabilizer (2 Torx Bolts.) When Hitching up temporarily attatch handle without Bolts, raise stabilizer Arms, put Caravan on Tow Ball in usual way. Then using what is now a (detatchable) handle put Handle back on again without Bolts use Handle to apply tension to Stabilizer levers then remove Handle and put in Car. Just be careful using the loose Handle and guard against it slipping off as considerable force is required both when lifting and even more so applying pressure to the Handle.

Incidently more than Two Years after I started doing this Alko have brought out a Retro Fit for 25 Quid! which is basically the same procedure. My view is that so many people now use 4x4's with a Rear mounted Spare, that Alko should have predicted this problem at the design stage and the the upgrade should be free or at least on an exchange basis.

Eddie.

 

[laurieW]

David. We have a series2 Discovery with a genuine LR towbar and door mount spare wheel. Our caravan has a Alko stabiliser hitch.

The stabiliser handle JUST clears the wheel during hitching, but I cant open the rear door fully as it catches the jockey handle.

 

[woodsieboy]

Hi, Keith.

I had this problem when I swapped the 'Van for a Swift with a 2004 Hitch Stabilizer, the Car is a Shogun, rear mounted spare Wheel with Stainless Cover. The answer is a combination of replies on here. In my case opening the rear door doesn't work, Jockey Wheel won't allow door to close.

The way I overcame this problem was with a spacer Plate between Tow Bar and Ball I have a Witter Bike Rack and the Car Plate for this combined with a spacer was just right. Here I must point out that using a spacer or Bike Rack might invalidate the Type Approval of the Bar. Mine was a Witter Bar and the additions were done by the original Fitter and confirmed as type approved. This still didn't give me enough room so I removed the Red Handle on the Stabilizer (2 Torx Bolts.) When Hitching up temporarily attatch handle without Bolts, raise stabilizer Arms, put Caravan on Tow Ball in usual way. Then using what is now a (detatchable) handle put Handle back on again without Bolts use Handle to apply tension to Stabilizer levers then remove Handle and put in Car. Just be careful using the loose Handle and guard against it slipping off as considerable force is required both when lifting and even more so applying pressure to the Handle.

Incidently more than Two Years after I started doing this Alko have brought out a Retro Fit for 25 Quid! which is basically the same procedure. My view is that so many people now use 4x4's with a Rear mounted Spare, that Alko should have predicted this problem at the design stage and the the upgrade should be free or at least on an exchange basis.

Eddie.

Hi Eddie seems like you had all my problems before me, our van is 2004 Abbey, car is Shogun LWB with chrome wheel cover, so thanks for all your help, seems like I will just have to take a little more time and care when hitching,

Kind Regards

Keith

 

[mickduck1]

Hi Mick, thanks for the advice, it seems to work as you say , I will try fitting the spacer as well

hi again keith

glad you found my comments useful, having re-read your original query yes you do indeed tow "without" the stabiliser handle attached. i put mine in the front locker until we arrive on site.un-hitching is just a reversal of the previous procedure i outlined. glad to help you out!!

 

[PaulCopaul]

Hi Keith,if you feel like forking out buy a winterhof the staberliser and hitch handle are one and give the best clearence for us people who have the rear mounted spare wheel.Paul

 

[woodbush]

I have a Shogun and had exactly the same problem. The retrofit from Alko is