How to identify the chassis I have on an older van

[manaboutthehouse]

Hi All the first of probably many posts on my restoration project .
Its a 1983 Cosalt Clubman 414 . It would appear to be built on an ALKO chassis as when I removed the wheel trims the ALKO legend is on the hub cover .
The manufacturer plate for the van has a max gross weight of 829kg on it but I cannot see any other plates but would not know where to look..
Is there a way of telling which chassis it is or were they all the same ?
The tyres fitted on the van are 155x13 but the spare is 165x13 which is likely to be correct?
I will replace all tyres once we are ready for the road as a safety measure on age alone.
I have assumed that if the max gross weight is 829 kg then on a twin axle this is approx 415 kg per tyre plus 10% factor of safety suggests an 82 load rated tyre (475kg) is sufficient is this correct or is it better to go up to say a 90 rated 8 ply tyre or does this affect the way the outfit rides?
What does this max gross weight mean exactly?
Is this the type of chassis that needs the "One shot nuts" I have read about for the hubs?
Are other parts such as bearings and brake shoes a standard type?
Are there other items that should be replaced , the chassis is not seized up, the hubs are free and the handbrake works on and off the brakes are untested so far as I need to get my tow bar fitted first ..
If it is an ALKO chassis I understand it was galvanised from the factory so should I just pressure wash it off or wire brush it or will this damage the galvanising ?
Is it advisable or even possible to replace the hitch with an anti snake type of the ALKO type I realise the van is lighter than most modern vans but would it make it easier for a novice to tow?

 

[Andrew_5040506]

Can only answer two points.
The chassis number will probably be found embossed on a small plate riveted to the side of the chassis just behind the hitch. There should be a 'window' in the faring to make it visible.

The max gross weight - now known as the MTPLM or MaximumTechnical Permitted Load Mass - is exactly what it suggests - the maximum weight of the van fully loaded. The empty weight is usually around 120-150Kg less than that.

As for tyres, you need not worry too much whether they are 155 or 165 if both will fit (in which case the wider tyre will probably be more stable.) However you do need to get six or eight-ply reinforced tyres (often van tyres) to make sure the load can be handled. There will be little difference in price for the load rating so I would go for a 87 rated tyre to give plenty of headroom. More important is the (cold) tyre pressure for which you may have to do a bit of Googling, but I would expect something in the range of 36-39psi for that caravan weight.

As for anti-snake a lever type such as a Scott will do the job nicely and does not involve changing the hitch.

 

[Damian]

If the chassis is an Al-KO unit it will have an identification plate fitted near the centre of the axle shaft under the van.
The brake hubs depending on the shape of the hub nut cap, if the hub nut cap is slightly conical in shape with a larger rolled rim and narrow top, it will have castellated nut and split pin to secure the hub nut.
If it is a straight sided "Top Hat" cover it will be One Shot nut, or Euro axle.

If the chassis is Al-Ko it should have been galvanised during production so just a jet wash is all that is needed.

The brake shoes should be Al-Ko and of a standard size, measure the diameter of the brake drum and the width of the brake shoe,you should end up with numbers such as 200mm brake drum, 51mm shoe width which will translate into a shoe set 20/51.
If you can post a pic of the hitch head it would help regarding the question about changing the hitch head.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi manaboutthehouse.
as Damian is the professional and one could argue "the sage" on such matters I would follow his advice closely :kiss: if he says that's where the chassis no is then that's where it will be, personally I have never looked where mine is so have no idea. however I have two points to add, first IMHO as one who has done a few restoration projects in my time, starting with the chassis is a good idea get that sorted first before ripping out anything. make a plan with a schedual of jobs to do making sure they are in order of priorities and in sequence so you don't have to re-do anything. and take lots of photos, photos of everything, :woohoo: if you strip anything down a photo of what it looks like where everything is fitted and which wires go to which terminal on a piece of equipment.
regarding brakes, even on an old van it will be unlikely that they are worn out as the mileage per year will probably be minimal however they may be rusty, mucky or stiff to operate, servicing the brakes is not too difficult for a decent DIY'er which you must be to undertake such a project, but be aware though that the shoes on a older van could well be asbestos based it is nasty stuff so be carefull not to breath in any dust.after servicing there is a specific sequence for adjustment, but we can discuss this later.

 

[Mike_S]

Can I suggest the spending a few £ on The Caravan Manual by John Wickersham, published by Haynes might be money well spent!

Mike

 

[manaboutthehouse]

many thanks for the replies guys I can already see this site and its members are going to be invaluable to me . I`m a competent mechanic with a good selection of tools having completed several car restorations over 30 odd years (started my first age 12 completed at 16) .
However I have never had a caravan before or even worked on a caravan before and whilst some stuff looks simple I work on the principle that it costs nothing to ask even if it is to check understanding .
I looked over the van last week with a colleague who is an experienced caravanner and 25 year AA man too. His view was that we should just strip clean lubricate and reassemble the brakes as they appeared to work and certainly were free when we let the handbrake off we were able to move the van by pushing freely enough.

Took 68 photos last night of the van and some measurements of things like the bathroom area, I found the spare is actually a 175 x 13 commercial tyre so will try this on the van and see if it fits first before deciding on new tyres.
Here is a picture of the hitch assembly In case anyone can identify it and advise if I can fit an anti snake hitch or would it be easier to use a bar type?

I have a copy of the caravan manual now and very good reading it has been many thanks!

 

[Damian]

The hitch is an Al-Ko hitch and can be replaced with a new type with hitch damper, although at around £300 it is expensive.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

Here is a picture of the hitch assembly In case anyone can identify it and advise if I can fit an anti snake hitch or would it be easier to use a bar type?

hi, looking at the second photo I can see a cut out on the right hand side a frame faring near the hand brake!!! this could be a cut out for the L bracket of a Scott blade type or possibly a Bulldog but it is hard to see "if you look directly" at the cut out and the chassis beneath are there any bolt holes through the a frame rail ???

 

[manaboutthehouse]

yes you are right there are 2 holes there , I thought that might be for a device. Given it is a relatively light outfit would a anti snake device or hitch make much of a difference?

 

[colin-yorkshire]

yes you are right there are 2 holes there , I thought that might be for a device. Given it is a relatively light outfit would a anti snake device or hitch make much of a difference?

thought so it is the mounting point for one of theses, http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/caravan-towing-stabiliser/1059390622#photo-content a stabiliser would be of assistance to any outfit IMO the type and use of course is up to the owner, you have to weigh up the pro's and con's of what is available but that is a separate issue.

 

[gary]

Not directly Cosalt but a Piper Clubman 414, Piper at the time being a make and not, as it became, a model in the Abbey Range, both Piper and Abbey though and in their time, were indeed part of the Cosalt group.
The 414 is a four berth, center kitchen, 14' 3" x 6' 8" and the Oct 82 price for the 83 season was £3676!

For the chassis number, have a look on the side of the offside 'A' frame leg under the front of the van, possibly just forward of the first bolt holding the chassis to the floor