With that set up you should achieve 35 mpg solo and 1 mile EVNot my words. However here are the tech specs for the battery.
Hybrid battery
Type Nickel metal-hydride
Nominal voltage 244.8
Number of cells 204
System voltage 650
With that set up you should achieve 35 mpg solo and 1 mile EVNot my words. However here are the tech specs for the battery.
Hybrid battery
Type Nickel metal-hydride
Nominal voltage 244.8
Number of cells 204
System voltage 650
My stats are:Not my words. However here are the tech specs for the battery.
Hybrid battery
Type Nickel metal-hydride
Nominal voltage 244.8
Number of cells 204
System voltage 650
I know for a fact that close 2 mile is very achievable. I have no idea where they got the 35 mile range unless I am mixed up with the later NX350H or 450H.With that set up you should achieve 35 mpg solo and 1 mile EV
The latest Toyota hybrid system are even more efficient, technology just keeps advancing just like computers and mobile phones.I know for a fact that close 2 mile is very achievable. I have no idea where they got the 35 mile range unless I am mixed up with the later NX350H or 450H.
The way the figures are presented are no real help to those considering switching from pure IC to some form of hybrid - especially if economy is their main concern.It's very difficult to make any meaningful comparisons between different models of Hybrid and Phev's even from the same manufacturer, as the detailed principles of operation and methods used and the sizes of battery, and car are all so different.
Unless your particular car does have a real hybrid defeat mode, there is no simple way of assessing the cars petrol/diesel fuel consumption, becasue the hybrid system will automatically begin to harvest energy when the system detects the need for braking, or collecting engine over run. This even applies to PHEV's. So simply embrace the cars technology as its presented to you, and look at the efficiencies in real world conditions.
For what its worth my own car does tell me what it thinks is my electric only efficiency, in temperatures over 15C I can regularly achieve 3.3M/kWh and today I hit 3.8 but in winter it drops to about 2M/kWh when traveling in town conditions.
And that's as it should be,. We have to assume the car manufacturer has done their best to optimise the vehicles behaviour where by it will change its operating mode to suit the way the car is driven.Most of our driving is to do shopping in the local town which is 10 miles away. Average speed about 50mph due to turning and twisting of A road. Occasionally about once very 6 weeks we may use the motorway. I seem to average just under 38mpg most times as EV mode kicks in frequently.
The only way to obtain a realistic fuel consumption figure in your particular area is a brim to brim fill there are some many different variation to consider, plus an average over a period of time.The way the figures are presented are no real help to those considering switching from pure IC to some form of hybrid - especially if economy is their main concern.
I still think that the first official figures were the most useful - steady speed 75mph (120 kph) was a good indication of motorway consumption - steady speed 56 mph (100 kph) was a good indication of what could be achieved if you drove like Miss Daisy - urban test was a good indicator if you did a lot of urban driving - you could then assess your own driving pattern as a mixture of those three.
My charge now mode using the ICE is the work of the Satan, it drops from 50+ to 35/36 mpg approximately 25%And that's as it should be,. We have to assume the car manufacturer has done their best to optimise the vehicles behaviour where by it will change its operating mode to suit the way the car is driven.
With a PHEV, the car may preferentially choose the Electric drive until the battery is near empty at which point it switches to the ICE. But it will still be harvesting energy from regenerative braking so you can still receive some significant benefit which helps with efficiency.
Where PHEV's can seem less efficient is if the driver tells the system to use the engine to recharge the battery, rather than using plug in charging. This is inefficient and affects the apparent MPG of fossil fuel.
If you do exhaust a PHEV's battery, it best to simply run in eco mode which will still use regenerative braking to partial recharge the battery which then has some capability of supporting the ICE at times of high demand such as accelerating from standstill.
Correct and as we do the same trip weekly basically there is very little variation. However on one of the other main roads not too far from our village there is a long straight and generally I floor the car on that stretch.The only way to obtain a realistic fuel consumption figure in your particular area is a brim to brim fill there are some many different variation to consider, plus an average over a period of time.
That's also true for any turbo engine, petrol or diesel - the moveable vanes within the turbo need "exercising" to prevent them seizing up.Mollycoddling any car is not good for the engine in the long run.
Can’t you drop it into Manual mode where you can get it to hold a lower ratio and up the revs? Useful for going down hills too.Correct and as we do the same trip weekly basically there is very little variation. However on one of the other main roads not too far from our village there is a long straight and generally I floor the car on that stretch.
Although a petrol model I have been told that apparently the car's fuel system has something similar to the DPF in a diesel car called a Petrol Particulate Filter (PPF) and this needs to have the "soot" burned off. I have been told that occasionally it is good to floor it for awhile as with the CVT box you cannot keep the car in a lower gear? Mollycoddling any car is not good for the engine in the long run.
I cannot select manual on the Lexus, but apparently I can use the paddle switches for a lower gear. Never used them on this car and also previous cars so no idea. Previous cars I simply moved the gear lever to Manual as it was a torque box.Can’t you drop it into Manual mode where you can get it to hold a lower ratio and up the revs? Useful for going down hills too.
Mine I just move the gear-lever towards me when in Drive, then backwards or forwards as required. The “pseudo” gear then shows on the dash display. Can’t over rev it as it will change up if you exceed pre set rev limit. Only time I tend use it is downhill gradients.I cannot select manual on the Lexus, but apparently I can use the paddle switches for a lower gear. Never used them on this car and also previous cars so no idea. Previous cars I simply moved the gear lever to Manual as it was a torque box.