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Leaking water heater.

I

imigill

In the process of preparing for our first outing of the year, I have filled the water system up but unfortunately have got a bad water leak from the water heater.

Does this mean a new heater is required and does anybody know the cost?

My van is a 1994 Lunar Clubman with a carver heater.
 
Gary, if you are absolutely sure it is coming from there and not flowing along the tank from the front end, then it more than likely is a hole in the tank, and tanks are no longer available.

Options will be, try and find one on EBay, but they will have no guarantee, replace with a Henry, which is a direct replacement and almost identical to the Cascade, replace with a Malaga, or new Whale unit, or a Truma Ultrastore.

Whichever option, they are not cheap options.
 
Tahnks Damien. Yes it is definately leaking from the joint of the cover for the electrics.

I have checked on e bay and they are selling for around
 
Gary, do you mean that you did not remove the drain plug from the outside, bottom left of the Cascade?
 
True tanks are not available new but that's not to say their not repairable as good as new?, repaired one today with no less than 10 holes!

But, this leak could be very simple, the bolts holding the element are prone to corrode and lose their heads, literally!, this releases the pressure and allow the water to leak from the elements seal, a simple gas/electric reseal kit sorts this out.

Beyond that, 99% of the leaks I'm fixing at the moment are purely down to frost damage, ie, the tanks been left with some water in and it has frozen, the expansion of the water freezing has then shoved the tank back off it's seal to the heat exchanger.

Only cure here is to straighten the distorted tank or it will never reseal successfully, and again a new seal kit and possibly a new tie rod completes the job.

I can help with any part or undertake all of these tasks
 
True tanks are not available new but that's not to say their not repairable as good as new?, repaired one today with no less than 10 holes!

But, this leak could be very simple, the bolts holding the element are prone to corrode and lose their heads, literally!, this releases the pressure and allow the water to leak from the elements seal, a simple gas/electric reseal kit sorts this out.

Beyond that, 99% of the leaks I'm fixing at the moment are purely down to frost damage, ie, the tanks been left with some water in and it has frozen, the expansion of the water freezing has then shoved the tank back off it's seal to the heat exchanger.

Only cure here is to straighten the distorted tank or it will never reseal successfully, and again a new seal kit and possibly a new tie rod completes the job.

I can help with any part or undertake all of these tasks
Click to expand...
I have discovered exactly the same problem today. I did drain down by removing the drain plug completely, so I am a bit miffed (no, VERY miffed) that frost damage has occurred. I need to remove the heater completely to check it. Anyone know how easy this is?
 
I have discovered exactly the same problem today. I did drain down by removing the drain plug completely, so I am a bit miffed (no, VERY miffed) that frost damage has occurred. I need to remove the heater completely to check it. Anyone know how easy this is?
 
Hello Ken.

Check out Gary's web site arcsystems.biz This has sets of instructions for the cascade and covers draining for winter etc.

Removal of the heater involves breaking a gas connection. That must only be carried out by a competent person working to the ACOPS for the industry.
 
How easy is it?, I've just broken or rather smashed my own record? a gas/electric model out and on the bench, down from 7.5 minutes to 6 minutes dead!

John though is correct in what he says, so first disconnect the gas bottle, now don't reconnect it or allow anyone else to, until the cascade is back in and competently checked for a gas tight joint.

Also with mains hookup disconnected, remove fuse from Cascades mains electric heating switch and store out of the way safely

You can now use a 17mm spanner to undue the gas joint nut, then once outer flue cover is removed, take out 9 screws holding the heater to the van, COUNT THEM to make sure their all out.

With two large screwdrivers or better still two 1/2inch chisels, and a thin strip of wood to protect the van, starting on the bottom edge, lever the cascades mastic joint free and draw the heater out a few inches.

Go inside now and you can tilt the heater up so you can disconnect the mains electrical connections with ease.

Go back outside and if hose pipe cut off just past the connection, this is easiest and leaves a fresh end of hose when you put it back in.

Finally draw the heater out a little further and disconnect the gas burner modules plug connection and your done.
 
Well well well! Removed heater following Gary's advice. Not able to beat or come close to his record, but I got it out in one piece! I was sure the leak was from the heater element and was due to frost, but it turns out there is a pin hole in the heater body-right underneath where it was impossible to see. The water ran along between the heater body and the foam insulation and poured out by the element-hence my conclusions. Heater now off to ARC systems for some TLC. At least I HAD drained down properly...
 
Update on water heater. Thoroughly professional repair job done by Gary at ARC systems-heater like new. Now re-installed and working-can't wait to get caravanning. Gary's a star...
 
Hi Ken glad your sorted and thank you for your kind words, as I remember the 'one' hole you found turned out to be several?
 
Yes you can cut off the cold supply, if the hose is flexible, easy way is to clamp it with a pair of mole grips.

If semi rigid then swap the 'tee' connector to the heater and replace with a straight connection.
 
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