Levelling.

[Plodd]

I have mentioned on my introduction that we are moving from a MH to a caravan.
We have a set of Milenco Quattro levelling ramps which were brilliant for the MH but are quite heavy.
Am I right in thinking a caravan will not need or be able to use such large levellers?

What would be a good swap for the Milencos?

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

We use the Milenco Leveller on our single axle van. If you have an AL-KO wheel lock you can add it and then lift the wheel.

There are several other types of leveller on the market and other posters will let you know.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Plodd,

Weight is a perennial problem for caravanner's, so avoiding carrying unnecessary extras is always preferential. There several different bespoke caravan levelling devices on the market, but I always used some short cut wooden planks to pull or push the caravan onto which gave me a variable stack to suit most sites for side to side leveling, then the jockey wheel for front to back. Fine tuning was done with the steadies.

 

[Hutch]

Hi, Plodd, I carry a Quatro and a smaller yellow ramp, we also bought one of the millenco leveller( hardly use it, stays in the shed ) as WC posted but found on damp sites, you need a plank of wood to stop it from sinking. Just do as the Prof, fine tune until SWMBO, is happy the a day later readjust to get the water out of the shower basin.

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

Fine tuning was done with the steadies.

tut, tut, tut :evil:

 

[Hutch]

Fine tune, only. Yes.
As I said on a different thread about a Buccaneer, having hydraulic levelling legs, a jack under the main wheels, and the stabaliser legs as well. All automatic, so which chasis do they use, all my (short experience ) says do not level using the legs, level on the wheels and jockey wheel. Have seen people lifting the jockey wheel after levelling, so the front adverising cover is nice and tight. Why.

 

[SirRogerFFS]

Some years ago we used have a fellow poster under the name of Steve in Leo. Steve posted a very useful tip on how to level a T/A van using two of the larger yellow Fiamma blocks. The secret is to measure the van wheels from centre to centre and keep this measurement in mind when parking up on site place the yellow blocks back to back with a gap that measured the centres from nowplace them where you either drive or pull van onto the blocks one wheel on each block and then you should have a good level van .Works well for us .
Sir Roger

 

[Sproket]

Some years ago we used to a poster under the name of Steve in Leo. Steve posted a very useful tip on how to level a T/A van using two of the larger yellow Fiamma blocks. The secret is to measure the van wheels from centre to centre and keep this measurement in mind when parking up on site place the yellow blocks back to back with a gap that measured the centres from nowplace them where you either drive or pull van onto the blocks one wheel on each block and then you should have a good level van .Works well for us .
Sir Roger

Ah ! Steve in Leo wonder what happened to him ?

Anyway the Steve in Leo way on how to level a twin axle

 

[SirRogerFFS]

I guess this should be in General really but as the question arose on here ,I believe Steve in Leo is now living permanantly in his caravan or Motorhome this was confirmed to me by His Lordship Lord Braykewynde .
Sir Roger

 

[bertieboy1]

Just like the prof we use flat pieces of wood for levelling on site and also to drive over the kerb at home with the motor mover.On site we always (if possible) use the car to get the wheel onto the wood.
Another consideration would be lower the side that is high rather than raising the low side by creating a hollow for the wheel to sit in (easy to do on a gravel surface).
As for "fine tuning" using the steadies - all I can say (again) - tut tut!

 

[ProfJohnL]

...
As for "fine tuning" using the steadies - all I can say (again) - tut tut!

This is becoming tedious, and is not called for..

The mounting points for the steadies are not designed to carry a significant load, but they have to accepts some loading if a steady is to work, My reference to "fine tuning" is no more that any caravanner does when setting up their caravan. Using them in conjunction with the caravans suspension if done with care does not put the caravan structure under any undue stress. You will get far more stress from the inertia of the caravan body when towing.

 

[Dustydog]

Prof
A lot of caravan steadies are not actually attached to the chassis but to the floor. hmy: Not very strong.
As a rule of thumb for decades now I have always advocated using them as steadies only, not for "fine tuning".
Using them to raise one side by even 1mm will put a considerable unnecessary strain on the caravan structure which is not good. That 1mm will remove a considerable load off the suspension which is the very item that should carry the weight.
Using the plastic yellow ramps or planks or even some gravel ,very accurate levelling can be obtained without the need to stress the steadies.
Sorry if this is tedious but as it's you no "Tut" :kiss:

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Dusty,

If you can "steady" a caravan without applying any lift (i.e less than a "mm" as per your comment) then you are a far better caravanner than I - and for all I know you may be B) .

This idea of zero lift is another caravanning myth, and dose not stand up to logical scrutiny. I am not inferring you can lift the side of the caravan of its wheel. Its a question of being reasonable. Don't forget that if you do lift the caravan slightly on a steady, the main wheels continue to provide a diminishing support as the suspension extends.

But whilst I totally agree that many steadies are not connected to the chassis,the body work still has some structural strength other wise it could not withstand having any luggage loaded or people moving around inside. It should be perfectly safe to apply up to about 50Kg of thrust through the steadies without damage yet alone the forces that are generated when towing which can be a few 1000 newtons. I think over 40 years of caravanning without tearing a corner of a caravan is a reasonable example.

 

[SirRogerFFS]

Sorry Prof. I beg to differ and I know lots of you on here have been caravanning longer than me. As far as Im concerned the steadies on a caravan are there for nothing more than to steady the van. Level up steadies down and just a pinch on the steadies to stop the rock and roll effect.
Sir Roger .

 

[KeefySher]

Having changed from a MH to a caravan last year have found the caravan easier to level and thus far have not required any levellers under the caravan wheels.

Our caravan, a Sterling Continental 570, has a circular spirit level affixed in the front that you can see as you stand to operate the winding part of the jockey wheel. We use the motor mover to position the caravan on the pitch which seems to make life easier, particularly to align the AlKo wheel lock

In the MH days used 2 spirit levels, 1 on the counter top amidships, the other on the dashboard and manoeuvre using Fiamma ramps if required. Thinking back, what a faff about. So much easier with a caravan.

We carry the Fiamma ramps just in case, but so far not required them.

We do use a set of steady pads on each steady leg regardless of pitch base be it hard standing, mud or grass. Probably more to do with stopping the legs burying in muck than anything else. Also use a battery drill with a winding attachment, set to 12 of 15 on the torque setting. Whizz each steady down till the drill clicks. As the days go on, if there is settlement, which is noticed by the caravan floor becoming 'bouncy', a quick flick of the battery drill soon sorts things out.

Understand the steadies are just that, not jacking legs as in the days of yore when dad had a caravan that was made of solid iron and could be lifted off its wheels by the jacking legs. Often a clue in the name of things as to their application.

Reading reviews of prospective sites and looking at images gives a good idea of site conditions you will encounter.

 

[Raywood]

True you cannot use the steadies to level the caravan from side to side. I am afraid you will still need one leveller on some sites. For getting the caravan level we found an app which I have on my tablet. They will download onto phones but not sure they are always going to be paralell front and back.

 

[Dustydog]

Ray.
The app I have is called 'bubble '. Handy but in truth we still use the old fashioned two way triangular spirit level.Old habits I guess B)

 

[DrZhivago]

This idea of zero lift is another caravanning myth .... I am not inferring you can lift the side of the caravan of its wheel. Its a question of being reasonable ....... It should be perfectly safe to apply up to about 50Kg of thrust through the steadies

Indeed, there would be no point in steadies if they could not take such a load. Looking at mine they could easily take 50Kg each. Even if the steadies only brush the ground when you pitch, as soon as someone gets in, because the wheels are sprung, some secondary but significant load is going to be transferred to the steadies. Depending on your nose weight, it is even possible the van would tip back if two people went to the rear without steadies; I've never tried it, but even if it did not tip up, the point I am making is that those steadies are taking some load.

Having said that, you would not want to set the steadies when pitching to be taking more than a firm load of say around 10 kg. I feel when the winding handle meets resistance and give it one more turn.

 

[ProfJohnL]

I seriously doubt that anybody can know what thrust they are applying through the steadies. I'd wager its a lot more than most think. hmy: