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Apr 7, 2008
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Roy did you contact powrtoch as asked earlier on in the thread ?

15 Feb 2010 03:01 PM Hello Roy

Powrwheel Technical here, have you contacted us about this problem? If not please do so ASAP. We need to fully investigate this fault. We can be reached on 01425 283293 option 2

So the remote was to blame ? ( broken wire ) without that sending the signal to the control box, it wont deliver power to the motors.
 
Jun 20, 2005
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As an aside my mates Truma is also fitted with an extra isolator in the form of an additional 7 pin socket into which the 12 S plug has to fit before the mover will work. Mounted on the A frame it is very accessible.

Original fitting and wiring done by Truma engineer.

Cheers

Dustydog
 
Apr 7, 2008
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I have just been looking at the Truma wiring diagram, they dont have the safety isolation key like powrtouch do..

There safety plug is your 7pin or 13pin plug put back into a socket on the A frame, ( If there is a fault in both caravan brake lights, the power circuit of the safety socket is not closed. In this case the Mover cannot be operated. )

Hmm !! so does it put the brake lights on when its powerd up ?
 
Mar 29, 2005
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i have a powrtouch mover and the service has been first class in every way.in one instance a remote was delivered to keswick in less than 24 hours by post.a motor fault was corrected in less than two days.as an auto electrician it was not a problem to fit an external isolator switch in the battery box for any problems that may arise from electrical faults.
 
Jun 20, 2005
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I'll ask him.I can't say I remember seeing the brake lights on but then I wasn't looking. Interesting there is no other isolation switch. I just took for granted he had that too.

FILs Truma has the same isolation switch as my Powrtouch but no 7pin system

Cheers

Dustydog
 
Oct 30, 2009
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hi all.

untill reading this thread I had no idea there could be a problem with running on of the mover, it is the first time I have heard of this so it must be very rare.

my mover is a old truma SE I bought from a neighbour and fitted my self it must be a least 10/12years old but works perfectly, save the annual clean and grease round is maintance free. it did not have any isolater at all before I fitted it to my van so I used one of the type shown by watson johnG in the battery box under the EHU socket.

however on a recent visit to the motor acc shop I noticed there is now one on sale that the red key does not turn and lock in but just pushes in and can be pulled out via a lanyard (like a kill switch) so this may be a mod for later.

the only other comment I would make is about remotes mine is kept in a clear soft plastic glasses case so it is 100% waterproof(with lanyard) as I am a bit paranoid about losing yet another one, I am on my 3rd now and @
 
Mar 14, 2005
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The one in the pic is the removeable type I think

I fit 2 switches with one in the positive and one in the negative ,both being in the battery box under the mains inlet

This has a couple of benefits

One is that the heavy cable from battery to mover is the only cable in the battery box where it can be tight with a 110amp hour battery

The van feed from the battery is then taken from the switch terminals

The van positive is taken from the battery side of the switch but the negative van feed is taken from the switched side so it can if needed be used to isolate the van
 
Oct 30, 2009
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17 Feb 2010 12:33 PM "The one in the pic is the removeable type I think" yes it is john you can tell from the little hole in the red key where it fits on a key ring, the non removable type has no hole and the red bit is shorter into the switch.

I am still trying to get my head round your wiring though sounds simple enough but if there is only one wire in the battery box where does the neg battery terminal wire go to? on the bailey all the wiring is behind the battery box inside the van under the seat the only wires in the battery box are the original 2 wires with quick release clips on. as the isolater switch is fitted on the ouside "or should I say inside the van with the switch shaft only poking through to the inside of the battery box" there is no room to fix 2 switches in this position and still be able (with the keys in place) to attach the EHU cable as pesumidly at least one of the keys to the neg isolater has to be left in all the time,

it is possible that the design of your battery box is different and the partition for the EHU cable bigger than on the bailey but on my battery box your mod just would not work.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hi Colin

Thank you for showing interest

There is room in my battery box under the hook up cable for the 2 switches one above as the keys are removeable and you don't use it when hooked up normally.The negative one does have to be left in so that is at the lower position in the battery box and I have used this set up in the battery boxes fitted to Swift and Bailey.It looks tight but in practice it all goes in and is much better if a big battery is used

I also have 2 holes for the cables to the battery to allow them to be pushed back into the van locker with rubber stops against the glands

I can see your point about my explanation in that I used cable(oh for an edit facility!) instead of cables meaning cabling but of course as you say there are 2 cables from the battery positive and negative and these fix on with the red and blue quick release battery clips

The same situation as far as cabling(2!)in the battery box could be acheieved without the second switch if a large terminal block was used inside the locker and in practice using the negative switch is rarely done but it makes a neat job

I will post a pic if the snow stops!!
 
Mar 14, 2005
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The one in the pic is the removeable type I think

I fit 2 switches with one in the positive and one in the negative ,both being in the battery box under the mains inlet

This has a couple of benefits

One is that the heavy cable from battery to mover is the only cable in the battery box where it can be tight with a 110amp hour battery

The van feed from the battery is then taken from the switch terminals

The van positive is taken from the battery side of the switch but the negative van feed is taken from the switched side so it can if needed be used to isolate the van
Should say cables to the battery (positive and negative)
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Sorry its not straighter but between snowflakes and camera battery just giving out its not too bad

Note room also for external twin Sky+ inlet in case roof dish obstructed!!!

 
Apr 7, 2008
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John / Colin

My van does not have a outside battery box, the sealed battery is under one of the beds, and when the mover was installed, the isolation key was fitted inside the van, it's never been a problem, but after reading what has happened I will be doing a conversion, and moving the isolation key to just inside the top of the door where the cassette comes out, I intend to fit this type, which is key operated & the key can only be removed in the off position, the key will fit on the key ring with the other van keys...

 
Mar 14, 2005
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John / Colin

My van does not have a outside battery box, the sealed battery is under one of the beds, and when the mover was installed, the isolation key was fitted inside the van, it's never been a problem, but after reading what has happened I will be doing a conversion, and moving the isolation key to just inside the top of the door where the cassette comes out, I intend to fit this type, which is key operated & the key can only be removed in the off position, the key will fit on the key ring with the other van keys...

Sounds prudent
 
Mar 14, 2005
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That's a good point Ray

But the movers come with one heavy duty isolation switch(mover has a high load) so its easy and cheap just to fit a second

Another benefit is the its easy to connect extra wires to the large terminals on the switches if more circuits are needed that won't be affected by the habitation relay

I use it for the sat dish memory and the rear view camera that don't want an interrupted supply
 
Oct 30, 2009
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hi john

a picture is better than a hundred words thanks for that I see exactly where you are comming from now mine looks similar only the isolater switch is lower than the top one of yours so yes it could be possible to just get 2 in there if it was a little higher.

I like the look of sprokets switch though with the smaller key very neat.

colin
 
Apr 7, 2008
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Sounds prudent
It's a Hymer, as you will see where the battery is positioned, to the left is the main control unit with the key above, i intend to fit the new isolation key in the top right hand corner of photo 3 that is ths other side of the wall on the right of the battery....





 
Apr 7, 2008
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John / Colin

My van does not have a outside battery box, the sealed battery is under one of the beds, and when the mover was installed, the isolation key was fitted inside the van, it's never been a problem, but after reading what has happened I will be doing a conversion, and moving the isolation key to just inside the top of the door where the cassette comes out, I intend to fit this type, which is key operated & the key can only be removed in the off position, the key will fit on the key ring with the other van keys...

It's a Hymer, as you will see where the battery is positioned, to the left is the main control unit with the key above, i intend to fit the new isolation key in the top right hand corner of photo 3 that is ths other side of the wall on the right of the battery....





 
Aug 26, 2008
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Hi Roy,

I had a similar expirence while on site at Chester. I contacted Powrtouch who said it was a problem with moisture in the remote,

they were very quick in sending a new one out with excellent service. I use to leave the remote in the car all the time so obviously I don't do that anymore, I also now keep the remote in a sealable sandwich bag. Also before I engage the drive rollers I turn the mover on and test each button on the remote to ensure it works correctly and does not run on.

Ian
 

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