Exactly what we used in the past before we got a fixed solar panel. 10 watts just kept the battery topped up nicely without the need for a regulator.A cheap 8-10 watt panel connected directly to the battery is, I am told, fine without a regulator and will not overcharge, especially in the winter.
It could go in a roof light. Or on the roof but would need some fixing in case the wind gets up.
Google my suggestion to check first.
John
Something like this?Exactly what we used in the past before we got a fixed solar panel. 10 watts just kept the battery topped up nicely without the need for a regulator.
We had it loose in the front window which just happened to be south facing.
Yes, thats what we used. Just make sure it's aimed at the midday sun at a good angle.Something like this?
ECO-WORTHY 10Watts Solar Panel Module for 18 Volts Battery Charger for Camp and off-grid Ligthing Applications L02P10-N-1 https://amzn.eu/d/5QaMp29
Literally just straight to the pos and neg of the battery?
Which in the winter, the angle is way nearer vertical than horizontal, thankfully as the plastic windows are then that bit less energy attenuating.Yes, thats what we used. Just make sure it's aimed at the midday sun at a good angle.
Thank you for this. So with that controller, could I use pretty much any panel?For panels located inside our van window going much bigger than 40Watts inevitably introduces the risk of the mouldings within the plastic window or the window frame throwing shading onto the panel. This potentially can drastically diminish the "performance" of the panel.
In respect to the suggested Vobor panel I see no specification on the included controller so its "parasitic" losses, ie its self powering drains working and resting, these vary, usually with quality and that tends to relate to its purchase price.
I have over the years tested some only to find they as said vary, one drained more than over 24 hours than the panel achieved even on a good day!
Buying "blind" you take a risk, that might pan out well or otherwise; I buy panels and controllers separately having studied their specifications, not buy blind.
A decent quatlty but budget controller this having just 6mA self drain.
Spec sheet
Thank you for this. So with that controller, could I use pretty much any panel?
Haha ok I understand. Think I know what to do as well. Thank you for all your help.Not quite, but effectively "yes" if that's not too contradictory!
What it must be is one designed for PWM charging 12 volt systems, this means that its "Maximum power voltage" needs to be around 18 to 22 volts. That is not one of the higher voltage ones "optimised" for use with MPPT technology controllers, and or higher voltage battery systems.
Though not a recommendation as its not a panel I personally know, the following, say their 30Watt version of this mono crystalline panel, has the right characteristics.
LINK
PWM being Pulse width modulation, the technology of the suggested breed of controller.
MPPT, Maximum power point tracking, a technology if done well that potentially can yield a bit better performance of panels optimised for use with them. An asset in weak lighting particularly, but doing with similar levels of quality componentry, is more expensive.
Thank you, looks good. Will keep in mind when I purchase next month.McLosi,
Can I suggest you look at something else that I am sure that you can have confidence in buying and using.
I have purchased solar energy related equipment from the supplier I link to and I have trust in the quality of products they have on offer, they are not my sole supplier so I think it fair to say I can make comparisons on fitness for purpose.
For a charge controller, here is a true MPPT, it's origin is Epever, a quality brand that will stand you in good stead should you wish to expand your solar array in the future.
Check it out here:
For solar panel (Victron - highly regarded) here is a 20 watt panel, they have 40 watt option also.
Click on this link:
For solar panel to produce its rated output has to facing sun directly and clear skies. Winter sun has lower output as its lower angle means it travels through more atmosphere which tends to be a bit more hazy in winter due to smoke particles.
We do have a tracker and the alarm switched on. Battery is over 6 years old, but is an AGM battery so hopefully will recover. I think it is a Yuasa 100ah battery?That paints the picture of a system with some significant battery drain, Alarm?
While MPPT are more efficient than PWM for price difference (£39 vs £5) be better offer spending difference on larger panels especially for installations <200W.McLosi,
Can I suggest you look at something else that I am sure that you can have confidence in buying and using.
I have purchased solar energy related equipment from the supplier I link to and I have trust in the quality of products they have on offer, they are not my sole supplier so I think it fair to say I can make comparisons on fitness for purpose.
For a charge controller, here is a true MPPT, it's origin is Epever, a quality brand that will stand you in good stead should you wish to expand your solar array in the future.
Check it out here:
For solar panel (Victron - highly regarded) here is a 20 watt panel, they have 40 watt option also.
Click on this link:
I don't really understand the difference between the PWM etc.. is what you suggested still a good idea? Minimum on I would imagine is the alarm. Max would be alarm and a rodent deterrent which I think, minimum draw but can find the box to get the exact amount.The focus here as the thread title is "Solar panel just to keep battery topped up"; getting up to a 200Watts system is rather an overkill IMO and experience, but will I concede probably achieve it.
Should it be envisaged here as an internal arrangement that could have its own challenges.