I have a 2011 Lunar Lexon 570 with a Thetford N112 Fridge. Just returned from holiday where I was connected to the site 240 volt hook up. I switched over to the battery for the journey home. When I got home, I could not switch the fridge off. Tried holding button in on all positions ie Gas, Mains and Battery but no results, just a Blue Flashing Light. I had to disconnect the battery. Has anyone had a similar problem. If I knew how to get to the back of the on/off button or to the PCB perhaps I could replace some parts and correct the fault by elimination.
Thetford N112 Fridge Fault
- Thread starter TonyNew
- Start date
Did the fridge behave itself when you reconnected the battery??
I have advised many times in the past that many fridge "issues" can be cured by disconnecting its 12v supply for 30 seconds or so (be that disconnected the battery or tge 12v lead at tge back of the fridge)
It seems to have the same effect as ctrl/alt/delete on a computer, it reboots the fridges "brain"
I have advised many times in the past that many fridge "issues" can be cured by disconnecting its 12v supply for 30 seconds or so (be that disconnected the battery or tge 12v lead at tge back of the fridge)
It seems to have the same effect as ctrl/alt/delete on a computer, it reboots the fridges "brain"
Back in the '70s, we were told by our TV repair man that the first step with an electrical is is ALWAYS to disconnect it completely from the power source and then start again - that was before the days of computers but still valid now.
....have the same refrigerator that had the same problem.
Lived with it for a while as I could turn the refrigerator 12 volt supply off via the caravan master 12volt switch.
Have now remedied the fault by fitting a new printed circuit board @ £85.
Lived with it for a while as I could turn the refrigerator 12 volt supply off via the caravan master 12volt switch.
Have now remedied the fault by fitting a new printed circuit board @ £85.
A caravans "master" 12v switch does not cut the supply to the fridge! You can still keep the fridge working if you leave tHe caravan for the day and choose to turn the master switch off.
Turn your fridge on, turn the master switch off and open your fridge door. The light will come on! That shows it is still getting 12v!
To "kill" the power to the fridge totally you must either disconnect the multi socket at the back of the fridge, or disconnect the leisure battery, turning the master switch off doesnt do it.
Turn your fridge on, turn the master switch off and open your fridge door. The light will come on! That shows it is still getting 12v!
To "kill" the power to the fridge totally you must either disconnect the multi socket at the back of the fridge, or disconnect the leisure battery, turning the master switch off doesnt do it.
......well you come and test that theory out on my Swift Challenger Sport 586 of 2012.
You will find you are wrong!
You will find you are wrong!
Have you actually tried it, or are you surmising that yours is different to just about every other caravan around?
Can you explain then why its possible for your fridge to continue to work, on gas or mains, if you switch the master switch off? (As many do if leaving the caravan for the day to ensure their water pump is off)
Every leisure vehicle I have ever had (motorhomes and caravans) has been configured that way (And I have had a few over the years)
Can you explain then why its possible for your fridge to continue to work, on gas or mains, if you switch the master switch off? (As many do if leaving the caravan for the day to ensure their water pump is off)
Every leisure vehicle I have ever had (motorhomes and caravans) has been configured that way (And I have had a few over the years)
When we switch off the 12v master switch, the fridge is switched off. If the 12v master switch does not switch off the fridge altogether then there is probably an issue.
On our Coachman the 12v feed to the fridge is always live. It is not a fault.
My caravan is in storage now but I shall pay it a visit and reconnect the battery. I shall let you know the outcome. Regarding other posts. The caravan master switch did not switch off the fridge on my caravan. That's why I disconnected the battery.
....I'll bow out of this thread and leave it to others with superior knowledge.
I simply posted in an endeavour to help the OP ....I am not going to engage with others.
I simply posted in an endeavour to help the OP ....I am not going to engage with others.
It must drain how battery in a shorter time than those where the master switch switches off the 12v to the fridge. I wonder if the electrical diagram for the caravan shows the 12v feed asrthe diagram for our caravan is nearly impossible to follow
I have looked up the installation instructions (which are available here), and section 7.2 states;-
"7.2 Connecting to a DC power supply (12 V) for all piezo and electric models (fig. 1)
These models have two 12V connection points to prevent the battery from being discharge d by the refrigerator when the engine is not running.
The high-current power supply (red cable+, white cable-) provides current to the 12v heating element of the cooling system. This connection point may supply 12v on ly when the engine of the car or motor home is running.-
The low-current power supply (purple cable +, black cable -) provides a continuous current of12v for ignition of the burner and the light in the refrigerator. The 12v supply is obtained via the connection to the car or motor home battery or via the 230v AC ‡ 12v DC transformer."
This shows the fridge needs a low current 12V supply to ensure the control circuit operates whilst on gas, and on 230V.
It will be down to the caravan manufacturers wiring if the low current supply is isolated by the caravans 12V switch or not, and different manufacturers might do it differently., Or perhaps its may have been changed by a previous owner.
"7.2 Connecting to a DC power supply (12 V) for all piezo and electric models (fig. 1)
These models have two 12V connection points to prevent the battery from being discharge d by the refrigerator when the engine is not running.
The high-current power supply (red cable+, white cable-) provides current to the 12v heating element of the cooling system. This connection point may supply 12v on ly when the engine of the car or motor home is running.-
The low-current power supply (purple cable +, black cable -) provides a continuous current of12v for ignition of the burner and the light in the refrigerator. The 12v supply is obtained via the connection to the car or motor home battery or via the 230v AC ‡ 12v DC transformer."
This shows the fridge needs a low current 12V supply to ensure the control circuit operates whilst on gas, and on 230V.
It will be down to the caravan manufacturers wiring if the low current supply is isolated by the caravans 12V switch or not, and different manufacturers might do it differently., Or perhaps its may have been changed by a previous owner.
No. The problem is still there when I reconnected the battery. I am going to remove the front control panel on the fridge. Apparently there is a circuit board behind the panel. Hopefully replacing this will solve this problem.
When I replaced my PCB , it was a repair kit, rear control box and a front sticky PCB. About £150 but 4 years ago. Easy enough to do but gas connections. I had my local Caravan guy do it as he just charged me £25. Labour.
Finally got round to sorting out my Thetford N112 fridge problem. I removed the front screen on the fridge, unscrewed the front cover, unplugged the wiring and unclipped the circuit board. On examination I found some burn marks around the on/off button on the board there was also some stains along the bottom of the board. The fridge is situated below a worktop where food, tea and coffee are prepared. I think some liquids have run off of the worktop, over the cover and down into the gap around the on/off button. I purchased a new board from Purelyoutdoors ebay site for £79.95. Fitting the new board was fiddley as the plug and clips were tight but the fridge is now working. Ok so this fridge is 12 years old but maybe this is a design issue. Does Thetford need to incorporate and rely so much on circuit boards. A few years ago I had a problem with the Thetford toilet in the same caravan. I had to replace the circuit board on the flushing mechanism. Surely a simple switch would suffice.
I agree with your sentiment. It seems manufacturers have a perception that by adding electronics to replace a simple switch is progress and makes a product more attractive.
This been has admirably demonstrated in so many recent new cars, where even the journalists have complained about having to use a touch screen and menus to adjust the cabin temperature, and how that takes the drivers concentration away from driving for much longer than should be necessary. Some car manufacturers have listened and are re introducing some fixed switches for frequently used features.
I am another who much prefers simple mechanical rotary switches for fridge operation, far more robust and reliable than having to rely on PCB's.
Do owners really want automatic energy selection and the like? I don't think many do, but such complex (and expensive) gizmos are becoming the norm, along with ever more complex heating systems, just look at the Truma combi unit. A marvel of engineering, but boy is it a complex thing
The cynic in me wonders if the manufacturers simply see an additional income stream opening up to supply PCB's with vast profits attached to each board they manage to sell because they have a total monopoly on spares..
I bet very few of the "old style" rotary fridge switches ever fail, wich kind of answers my question really doesn't it
Do owners really want automatic energy selection and the like? I don't think many do, but such complex (and expensive) gizmos are becoming the norm, along with ever more complex heating systems, just look at the Truma combi unit. A marvel of engineering, but boy is it a complex thing
The cynic in me wonders if the manufacturers simply see an additional income stream opening up to supply PCB's with vast profits attached to each board they manage to sell because they have a total monopoly on spares..
I bet very few of the "old style" rotary fridge switches ever fail, wich kind of answers my question really doesn't it
The Electrolux/Dometiq fridge in our 2000 Bailey Pageant had independent controls for gas, 230V and 12v - so by leaving both 230V and 12v switched on the cooling was effectively automatic since the EHU was disconnected when the car was connected and vice versa - the Dometiq fridge in our 2013 Lunar requires to be switched between power sources and more than once have I forgotten to switch to 12v for towing or 230V for site.I am another who much prefers simple mechanical rotary switches for fridge operation, far more robust and reliable than having to rely on PCB's.
Do owners really want automatic energy selection and the like? I don't think many do, but such complex (and expensive) gizmos are becoming the norm, along with ever more complex heating systems, just look at the Truma combi unit
The cynic in me wonders if the manufacturers simply see an additional income stream opening up to supply PCB's with vast profits attached to each board they manage to sell because they have a total monopoly on spares..
I bet very few of the "old style" rotary fridge switches ever fail, wich kind of answers my question really doesn't it
Remember the old Omnivent with mechanical switches last years. Then they upgraded it with a touch button and then had endless troubles. The lights were like flashing Xmas tree lights. In one caravan we had, the dealer changed the unit three times. We then gave up and had air con fitted,I am another who much prefers simple mechanical rotary switches for fridge operation, far more robust and reliable than having to rely on PCB's.
Do owners really want automatic energy selection and the like? I don't think many do, but such complex (and expensive) gizmos are becoming the norm, along with ever more complex heating systems, just look at the Truma combi unit. A marvel of engineering, but boy is it a complex thing
The cynic in me wonders if the manufacturers simply see an additional income stream opening up to supply PCB's with vast profits attached to each board they manage to sell because they have a total monopoly on spares..
I bet very few of the "old style" rotary fridge switches ever fail, wich kind of answers my question really doesn't it
Hi. Thanks for all the advice on this thread. I too had an issue with no power on the fridge lcd pcb and after taking a bit of a chance replaced it at a cost of £95 Inc delivery and all ok now. I did however do a check on the power to the fridge and on my caravan, a sterling eccles 90 works in the following way. We have a Sargent EC400 psu/fuse/mcb unit and a remote on/off/battery levels/water pump unit above the door. I think this is where the confusion lies. If the Sargent unit (Madter PSU) is switched off all outputs are isolated including the fridge. It will not work at all. If however the power is switched off above the door the fridge stays on. I think some people think this is the master switch and not a remote switch for turning off.lighrs/12v sockets/water pump when leaving the caravan. Once again thanks for all the advice on this thread. BIG STEVE.
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