Touring Starts Here!

[JCNUFC1991]

Hello all!

New to the touring world, waiting to collect our first caravan next week, a Bailey Ancona 2024.

Literal newbie to the caravan world so looking for some advice while getting together all the bits we need or might need.

The dealer has been really helpful and given us a list of suggestions so I’ve been trying to Google to see what’s what and whether they’re a necessity or not. Wondering if the forum members could offer their opinion and recommendations please on the following parts:

- Towing mirrors for a Tesla Model Y
- Wheel lock
- Hitch lock
- Towing lead (assumed we might get one included with the caravan though?)
- Hitch cover
- Chocks/levels
- Feet pads
- Leisure battery (don’t think we will be going off grid but we are getting a motor mover fitted so would need to be able to cope with that)

Thanks in advance!

 

[otherclive]

Hi and welcome to the Forum Be Interesting to receive feedback on your trips particularly given you have a full EV. One other member tiws with a Polestar. Answering your questions on kit your insurer will lay down conditions for security devices, but often just generic leaving you to select the make

Towing mirrors Milenco are firm favourites with many. They offer good technical support and spare parts too. You could talk to them re options for what is a rare tow car.

Wheel lock……most secure is Alko. But fiddly to fit. Milenco offer one that is good and approved and Purpleline Nemesis is very similar. Both easier to fit than Alko.

Towing lead ? Do you mean cable to hook up the caravan to site supply. This should be part of the caravan supplied kits

Hitch cover…. dealer could throw one in as part of the sale. I never used one on site only when at home. Plenty choice on the net or local accessory shops


Chocks….I used Alko as very compact and light and get close to wheels. Ramps I used Milenco, but there are many options available. Some use lengths of decking with pieces screwed on such that you can drive or reverse on..

Feet pads …. yes and most are variations on a them but do spread load on steadies on softer ground

I also had wooden blocks, then latterly stackapads to put under the steadies when on sloping or uneven ground.

I used a plastic kitchen chopping board under the nose wheel on soft ground.

Battery I’ve always had lead acid but some have AGM and are even moving to lithium. Buy a recognised brand Numax, Varta , Bosch etc. 105-110 amp hrs gives a margin if off grid especially if the van has solar panel.

Torque wrench for caravan wheel nuts.

Jack….very much a personal choice. Many like the Purpleline hydraulic bottle jack which has good secure attachment points. Others use Alko side lift, or trolley jacks. If I was starting out afresh I’d go for the Purpleline

Enroll on a towing course via one of the two Clubs. Excellent value and you learn so much over the two days as they cover more than towing.

Weigh everything going into the van. You cannot believe how rapidly payload gets used up. Battery 23-25 kg, mover 32-38 kg, etc Be disciplined and use lists. Take loaded caravan to public weighbridge.

Need to measure noseweight before first tow. Some vans are naturally nose heavy when unloaded others the converse. It will then change as you load the van. Dealer should help you. Buy a noseweight gauge. I used bathroom scales for initial settings then relied on a Milenco gauge. If I was doing it now I would use the Reich electronic gauge. Noseweight debates are often lengthy and heated and some elevate it to a celestial art form. Just make sure it’s within the limit for the caravans hitch and the limit for the car. Try and achieve maximum without exceeding the respective limits. Search the forum for noseweight, sit down with a beer and enjoy your evening.

First trip keep it simple and on hard pitch not to far away. Could even be near dealership.


Lots to learn but just take it bit by bit.

 

[Beachball]

Hi and Welcome to forum with a full EV and a new caravan look forward to your breaks how this stunning setup performs .
You might need eg Gas bottles , Spare wheel . Number plate Aqua roll, service pitch connection Isabella awning .and Toilet Rinse

 

[Buckman]

You forgot the towbar for the car and also the 13 pin electrics for the car. Remember that the range when towing will probably be considerably less than when solo.

Also when recharging at a service point, you will need to disconnect the caravan so it will be wise if someone stays with the caravan while the recharge is being completed.

No idea of the maximum the vehicle can tow, nose weight, kerbweight etc. so most of us on here probably cannot offer advice of maximum MTPLM of caravan for a safe journey.

 

[otherclive]

You don’t say what exact Ancona you have but just a Quick Look shows MTPLM to be just under 1600kg. Weight wise the Model Y Tesla is a heavy beast so the ratio between car and caravan should be okay, but as Buckman says you need to make sure the cars legal towing limit is suitable for the caravan.

My grandson had the Model Y AWD but after 6-7 months decided to part company with it. I was talking to him about fitting roof bars to his 5 series PHEV, and he told me that he would have been reluctant to fit any to the Tesla as some owners cars had developed cracked roof lights and Tesla refused to accept warranty claims. How much of an issue I don’t know but worth investigating if you plan to do likewise.

 

[JCNUFC1991]

Good morning everyone and thanks for your replies.

The Model Y can tow 1600kg, tow bar has cost £1150ish. After a quick Google search I’ve found but haven’t confirmed that our MY can take a nose weight of 160kg and again Google search without confirmation has found that most Baileys have a maximum nose weigh of 100kg so I think I’ll be aiming for about 90kg - would that be sensible?

Sorry, didn’t know there was more than one 2024 model of Ancona so wouldn’t be able to tell you which we have but the MTPLM of it is around 1550kg I believe with an unladen weight of around 1410kg. I’ll confirm all of this when loading the van when we get it.

I believe the caravan can hold 2 gas bottles but figured this would be pointless and add additional unnecessary weight when we’re only going to be away for a weekend twice a month.

Think we are going to leave the awning until next spring/summer.

I’m hoping we get a mains cable, breakaway cable and 13pin lead with the caravan??

Trying to buy stuff before we get the caravan but also being cautious as to not buy things there’s a chance we might get included in the purchase.

 

[Buckman]

If the vehicle can handle the 100kg, it may tow better at the maximum nose weight. Remember while travelling it may fluctuate between a few kilos up 200kg or more. What is the kerbweight of MIRO of the car?

Once you have the caravan you will find things that you need that suits your purpose, but not others. We carry and air fryer and TV for evenings, but that may not suit you. Our TV is a standard 240 TV. You will need a BBQ to enjoy the great outdoors when it isn't raining.

If you can afford it, get a lithium battery as it is lighter than any LA or AGM battery. Bonus is that it lasts a lot longer if going off grid.

We also have a front towing cover to protect the front of the caravan from stones being thrown up and also when arriving on site no need to clean the front of the caravan as no dead flies.

 

[otherclive]

From a quick search the kerbweight of Tesla model Y is around 1900-2010 kg depending on fit so it’s a heavy old beast. Your caravans MIRO isn’t unladen weight as it includes certain items. Your Owners Manual normally should spell out what’s included. Unfortunately MIRO isn’t a singular definition. My last van included for one 6kg propane bottle weighing 10 kg but obviously that wasn’t supplied. Also included were EHU electrical cable, step, water hose fitment for Aquaroll to caravan, all documents and handbooks, spare wheel supplied. Importantly battery and mover were not included and come out of payload. Breakaway cable is part of the caravan, as is the 13 pin connector lead to the car. Both are fitted at works. Electrical Hook Up lead for connecting van to site bollard is part of supplied equipment for the caravan. Normally included in MIRO.

Being a big EV the Tesla is heavy even unloaded so when your kit is in it together with passengers it should make for a very well matched outfit.

My figure for MTPLM came from a quick search but looking at Bailey’s site you have the correct figure.

 

[Dustydog]

Welcome to the Forum. My learned friends and dare I say well seasoned experts have given you some excellent food for thought.

What sort of touring do you want to do?

 

[Steve1962]

When we started as newbies in 2022 I had NEVER towed anything before I collected the caravan and drove it over 80 miles home from the dealers in Salisbury.
A couple of weekends before I did a course run by the CAMHC over a weekend which was invaluable.

Also, for our first trip which went to somewhere local, on roads I am familiar with, and close enough to home that if needed I could drive home and back within the hour ( if we had forgotten something for instance).
I invested in an Avtex Tourer Sat Nav ( on this you can input the dimensions of your rig ( car and caravan) and in theory it should never direct you onto roads that are too narrow or have height restrictions that may cause problems - so far this has been faultless, but I always research the route in advance anyway - the last thing you want is to get stuck down a narrow lane or under a bridge, especially when you are novices.

Good luck, looking forward to your trip reports in due course.

The camaraderie amongst caravanners ( I include those with motorhomes too) is fabulous, folk will always help if they see you struggling with anything, and the advice you can gain from fellow caravanners is priceless - there's always things to learn.

Steve

 

[JCNUFC1991]

Thanks again everyone who’s had an input.

A lot of reassuring advice here. I’ve a lack of knowledge when it comes to the weights so it’s good to hear that what I’ve researched sounds about right and even that one of you thinks the Tesla MY should work well due to the weight. Granted it will need charged more regularly than a car would need filled up with diesel perhaps but on the flip side it’s going to cost far less.

Not that I thought otherwise, but it’s also good to hear that there are other people who have decided to jump in at the deep end in terms of buying a caravan with no prior experience and just going for it!

Going back to the dealer tomorrow morning to try and get all of the bits needed for towing and setting up when on site.

 

[Buckman]

I invested in an Avtex Tourer Sat Nav ( on this you can input the dimensions of your rig ( car and caravan) and in theory it should never direct you onto roads that are too narrow or have height restrictions that may cause problems - so far this has been faultless, but I always research the route in advance anyway - the last thing you want is to get stuck down a narrow lane or under a bridge, especially when you are novices.
Steve

I think the Avtex is a re-badged Garmin?

 

[Steve1962]

I think the Avtex is a re-badged Garmin?

It is.
We got ours at the CAMH Show as it was discounted, and has lifetime updates included.
On our recent trip home from Norfolk ( Deers Mead nr Erpingham - lovely site), the A43 was shut so we were diverted via Milton Keynes without issue.
As with all these things it pays to familiarise yourself with the route anyway.

Steve

 

[Dustydog]

.
On our recent trip home from Norfolk ( Deers Mead nr Erpingham - lovely site), the A43 was shut so we were diverted via Milton Keynes without issue.


Steve

A cup of something with Hutch🤪

 

[otherclive]

To OP always follow the sites Directions for arrival, and I used Google street View to familiarise myself with way points near to the site.

 

[Buckman]

To OP always follow the sites Directions for arrival, and I used Google street View to familiarise myself with way points near to the site.

Our Satnav still has the Archies POI installed which is the actual co-ordinates and not post code so generally never had an issue. However if a strange CL, Google earth is your friend to check the last few miles.

 

[Hutch]

A cup of something with Hutch🤪

No he skipped through, before I could grab him.

 

[JCNUFC1991]

Another quick question while I remember!…

When levelling the caravan, is it correct to drive forward up a ramp or reverse onto a ramp or does it not matter?

Read something the other day about there being a right way but can’t remember what it was I read.

Thanks

 

[otherclive]

Here’s some advice from Bailey for ramps or mover levelling. Also a recent article from PC covering different approaches and kit.

Arriving on site: How to level your caravan - Bailey of Bristol

www.baileyofbristol.co.uk

Levelling a caravan: how to get your tourer flat on its pitch - Practical Caravan

John Sootheran looks at levelling a caravan, from how to do so to the most effective ways to get your tourer completely flat on its pitch.

www.practicalcaravan.com

 

[Dustydog]

Is Bailey’s advice correct?

I think it is but one small point is missing imo.

If the caravan has been reversed immediately prior to being pulled forward onto the ramp will the reversing brake mechanism have fully reset?
Pulling the handbrake on may not fully secure the caravan whilst it’s half way up the ramp?
Am I missing something 🙀

 

[Hutch]

The problem starts with if you have a motor mover, I have two ramps a shallow yellow one which will go under the motor mover, and the larger Millenco Quattro, which has 4 "dips" in it that hold the wheel nicely when raised up the ramp, but it will not go under the motor mover, so can only be used behind the wheel.
Remember when applying the handbrake it is not fully engaged until the handle is fully 90⁰ upright which means at time you have to gently roll the van back maybe 6 inches. So if fitting the Alko wheel lock, this can be a pain.
Forward or backwards, it's up to yourself, I like to use a wheel chock at all times.

 

[Steve1962]

A cup of something with Hutch🤪

He would not answer the door🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

[JCNUFC1991]

Here’s some advice from Bailey for ramps or mover levelling. Also a recent article from PC covering different approaches and kit.

Arriving on site: How to level your caravan - Bailey of Bristol

www.baileyofbristol.co.uk

Levelling a caravan: how to get your tourer flat on its pitch - Practical Caravan

John Sootheran looks at levelling a caravan, from how to do so to the most effective ways to get your tourer completely flat on its pitch.

www.practicalcaravan.com

Thanks but it just says “with a motor mover, drive your caravan up the ramp”

Doesn’t really specify whether to reverse or drive forward?

 

[JCNUFC1991]

The problem starts with if you have a motor mover, I have two ramps a shallow yellow one which will go under the motor mover, and the larger Millenco Quattro, which has 4 "dips" in it that hold the wheel nicely when raised up the ramp, but it will not go under the motor mover, so can only be used behind the wheel.
Remember when applying the handbrake it is not fully engaged until the handle is fully 90⁰ upright which means at time you have to gently roll the van back maybe 6 inches. So if fitting the Alko wheel lock, this can be a pain.
Forward or backwards, it's up to yourself, I like to use a wheel chock at all times.

Ok so I’ve bought a ramp but not a chock… should I get one?

 

[otherclive]

Ok so I’ve bought a ramp but not a chock… should I get one?

A couple of good chocks are useful for other situations too. Such as holding van on steep hill if required to assist hill start. Tie them with long cord. I like Alko ones. Very conformal to wheel.