Hi Barrielow,
You have told us the glass fuse's filament seems intact, but that doesn't actually tell you the fuse is OK. obviously if the filament isn't there that is a virtual certainty the fuse has blown, but you can't assume the apparent presence of a filament means the fuse is OK. Considering the age of the caravan (and I assume the water heater) sometimes under normal use a fuse can weaken and fracture over time and still leave the filament apparently there. So if you are competent with electrics it's worth testing the continuity of the fuse with a multimeter or refering the diagnosis to a professional.
If the fuse has operated and left the filament visible, its likely to be just age/use related, and there shouldn't be a problem with simply replacing fuse with one of the correct value. But if a fuse has ruptured and the filament has clearly either melted, disappeared or the the inside of the glass tube has darkened, these tell-tales indicate the fuse has carried too much current, and that usually means something else has caused excess current to flow, so the circuit needs to be repaired or replaced, again that is a job for someone who is genuinely competent with electrics and electronics.
As you probably know fuses are usually specified by the their current rating in A (Amps) or mA (milliamps) and the value is usually marked on the fuse body or stamped into an end cap. The rating on glass fuses is also usually by a capital letter which indicates the sensitivity of the fuse :-
- FF: Very Fast Acting (Flink Flink)
- F: Fast Acting (Flink)
- M: Medium Acting (Mitteltrage)
- T: Slow Acting/Time Delay (Trage)
- TT: Very Slow Acting (Trage Trage)
Breaking Capacity (Interrupting Rating): This marking indicates the maximum fault current the fuse can safely interrupt.
- L: Low breaking capacity
- H: High breaking capacity
It's important for your safety to replace a fuse with the correct rating and type.