just had my van safety checked by a mobile fitter. He pressure tested my 2004 bailey at 50mb. i assumed he knew what pressure he should be using.
In my experience the caravan service is a bit of a joke. I requested the brake system be checked over in perticular. along with a gas check.
The gas check was the pressure test. he never steped inside the van at anytime. I know all the gas isolation valves were closed, so how have the appliance pipework been pressure tested?.
I wasnt too concerned about the gas though as we always go on electric.
The brake checks involed the removal of the hubs to clean and inspect the brake assembly. He did a good job here of inspecting, no fault found.
I waited in anticipation expecting him to get under the axle to adjust the brakes up via the hub adjustment, it never happened. he did however check the central linkage adjustment.
This confused me some what, so i asked him why he hadnt adjusted the brake hubs via the slot at the back of the drum, his reply was " well its ok to adjust via the linkage clearance in theory?
What do you think?
The alko and baileys handbook do not concur with this as i remember.
So
In my experience the caravan service is a bit of a joke. I requested the brake system be checked over in perticular. along with a gas check.
The gas check was the pressure test. he never steped inside the van at anytime. I know all the gas isolation valves were closed, so how have the appliance pipework been pressure tested?.
I wasnt too concerned about the gas though as we always go on electric.
The brake checks involed the removal of the hubs to clean and inspect the brake assembly. He did a good job here of inspecting, no fault found.
I waited in anticipation expecting him to get under the axle to adjust the brakes up via the hub adjustment, it never happened. he did however check the central linkage adjustment.
This confused me some what, so i asked him why he hadnt adjusted the brake hubs via the slot at the back of the drum, his reply was " well its ok to adjust via the linkage clearance in theory?
What do you think?
The alko and baileys handbook do not concur with this as i remember.
So
Forgot to mention he jacked the van up via the chassis just below the two predrilled holes for the alko jacking bracket (if you fit one).
I did question this as again alko advise against this. he replied " i always try to jack up as close as i can get to the axle"
I only noticed after he left, the jack had bit through to base metal on one side so inducing future rust. On the other side the bottom lip had been slightly bent in and again the jack had bit down to base metal.
I had such fun painting over the damage with galavoid paint afterwards.
He is fully approved by the caravan club, etc etc (is it ncc approved ?)
I did question this as again alko advise against this. he replied " i always try to jack up as close as i can get to the axle"
I only noticed after he left, the jack had bit through to base metal on one side so inducing future rust. On the other side the bottom lip had been slightly bent in and again the jack had bit down to base metal.
I had such fun painting over the damage with galavoid paint afterwards.
He is fully approved by the caravan club, etc etc (is it ncc approved ?)
Damian
Moderator
Ray, if your van is of the old style cylinder mounted regulator then 50mB is ok for testing, if it is a bulkhead reg,then the pressure MUST be 150mB, and all the isolation taps must be ON.
As for jacking, there is a reinforced plate where the axle protrudes to the hubs, this is the place to use a trolley jack, not on the rest of the chassis member, which is not reinforced.
Regarding adjustment, it should ALWAYS be done from the hub first, it is very unusual to have to adjust the linkage.
If he is a member of the Approved Workshop Scheme, take your concerns up with Jones Vening, and the AWS is approved by the NCC as well as CC and C&CC
As for jacking, there is a reinforced plate where the axle protrudes to the hubs, this is the place to use a trolley jack, not on the rest of the chassis member, which is not reinforced.
Regarding adjustment, it should ALWAYS be done from the hub first, it is very unusual to have to adjust the linkage.
If he is a member of the Approved Workshop Scheme, take your concerns up with Jones Vening, and the AWS is approved by the NCC as well as CC and C&CC
Damian (moderator)
Just checked all past service records and gas system pressure test only 50mb. Ours is a bulkhead regulator which we have had changed twice since purchased 3 years ago due to a known design fault of the rubber diaphram.
I'm now deeply concerned not only has the leak on the regulator not been picked up after mentioning a strong smell of gas they have not even been testing at the correct pressure so what else is being missed during this
Just checked all past service records and gas system pressure test only 50mb. Ours is a bulkhead regulator which we have had changed twice since purchased 3 years ago due to a known design fault of the rubber diaphram.
I'm now deeply concerned not only has the leak on the regulator not been picked up after mentioning a strong smell of gas they have not even been testing at the correct pressure so what else is being missed during this
Damian
Moderator
Hi Dave,
Firstly, the regulator problem is not a design "fault" as such, it is a combination of dirty gas and leaching of plasticiser from the pigtail, the GOK regulator is a two stage reg, as opposed to the older cylinder type which are single stage.
The test pressure is quite clearly stated, and there is a special test unit which has to be used to test the system.
The test is:
Isolate the regulator at the test point(to save back pressure on the reg), make sure all the isolation taps are open to each appliance, connect test pump and pressurise to 150mB.
Leave for 5 minutes and note the reading (the stabilisation period), leave for a further 5 minutes and note the pressure.
The loss of pressure MUST NOT exceed 10mB over the test period.
The test backwards from the test point to the cylinder is, after releasing the 150mB pressure, remove the pressure pump and connect a manometer, open the cylinder valve and note pressure on manometer, should be 28mB for Butane, 37mB for Propane, close valve and wait 5 minutes, note any loss of pressure9 must not be more than a value in a set of tables, which I do not have here right now.
Reduce pressure to 20mB and test for 2 minutes, should not be any rise in pressure, if there is it is a faulty valve.
Hope this helps
The response by CORGI is normal, they are not a technical service, as such, they are simply the registration body.
Firstly, the regulator problem is not a design "fault" as such, it is a combination of dirty gas and leaching of plasticiser from the pigtail, the GOK regulator is a two stage reg, as opposed to the older cylinder type which are single stage.
The test pressure is quite clearly stated, and there is a special test unit which has to be used to test the system.
The test is:
Isolate the regulator at the test point(to save back pressure on the reg), make sure all the isolation taps are open to each appliance, connect test pump and pressurise to 150mB.
Leave for 5 minutes and note the reading (the stabilisation period), leave for a further 5 minutes and note the pressure.
The loss of pressure MUST NOT exceed 10mB over the test period.
The test backwards from the test point to the cylinder is, after releasing the 150mB pressure, remove the pressure pump and connect a manometer, open the cylinder valve and note pressure on manometer, should be 28mB for Butane, 37mB for Propane, close valve and wait 5 minutes, note any loss of pressure9 must not be more than a value in a set of tables, which I do not have here right now.
Reduce pressure to 20mB and test for 2 minutes, should not be any rise in pressure, if there is it is a faulty valve.
Hope this helps
The response by CORGI is normal, they are not a technical service, as such, they are simply the registration body.
A gas installer I know told me a while ago that the best way to find a gas leak was to either mix up a solution of soapy (dish washing up liquid) and water or buy one of the kids bubble making toys. Get a small paintbrush and go over every joint with it. You'll soon see where the leak is, you'll get a big bubble. Of course it will not find any internal faults with appliances or regulators.
After my recent experience where (hopefully) they found the gas leak but with the damage done to the external vents it doesn't inspire me with confidence.
And it cost me 200 quid!
Caravan servicing in my opinion is nothing more than a cash cow!
After my recent experience where (hopefully) they found the gas leak but with the damage done to the external vents it doesn't inspire me with confidence.
And it cost me 200 quid!
Caravan servicing in my opinion is nothing more than a cash cow!
Thanks for your advice and help. I now feel that the service has not been carried out correctly and will be contacting the service manager first thing Monday morning
damian
My van is a 2004 bailey senator vermont, factory fitted with two propane regulators. Are you saying this system should have been tested at 150mb not 50mb?
The chap who carried out the service has all the creditation required to service caravans to maintain the manufactos warrentry (so he tells me).And advertises in the local yellow pages. He is a one man band self employed member of the ncc (as his advert claims).
I have always jacked my vans under the double skinned area of the axle as you righly state.
And again i agree the brakes should be adjusted at the hubs, in order to get the correct clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum.
With my last van i adjusted the brakes and serviced the van myself for 7 years.
However the Bailey came with 5 years body warrentry so i started off having it serviced to maintain it. Along with getting older and worrying about having a possible insurance claim being refused? i have since had some one else do the job.
And there lies the problem. Getting some one to do the job properly.
If i report him will they send some one to do the job properly?
will they believe what i am saying?
My van is a 2004 bailey senator vermont, factory fitted with two propane regulators. Are you saying this system should have been tested at 150mb not 50mb?
The chap who carried out the service has all the creditation required to service caravans to maintain the manufactos warrentry (so he tells me).And advertises in the local yellow pages. He is a one man band self employed member of the ncc (as his advert claims).
I have always jacked my vans under the double skinned area of the axle as you righly state.
And again i agree the brakes should be adjusted at the hubs, in order to get the correct clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum.
With my last van i adjusted the brakes and serviced the van myself for 7 years.
However the Bailey came with 5 years body warrentry so i started off having it serviced to maintain it. Along with getting older and worrying about having a possible insurance claim being refused? i have since had some one else do the job.
And there lies the problem. Getting some one to do the job properly.
If i report him will they send some one to do the job properly?
will they believe what i am saying?
I as far as I understand Jones-Venning are a trade body but have no jurisdiction over the companies they assess. If JV take on the complaint, I will be very interested in Jones-Venning's response.
I strongly aadvise that if you have concerns about the compentency or the quality of the work carried out you contact your trading standards office.
I strongly aadvise that if you have concerns about the compentency or the quality of the work carried out you contact your trading standards office.
Damian
Moderator
Jones Vening are the Administrators of the Approved Workshop Scheme, on behalf of the Board.
They will take complaints and can suspend or terminate any approved workshops registration.
They will take complaints and can suspend or terminate any approved workshops registration.
Damian
Moderator
Ray, it sounds like you have two cylinder mounted regulators, probably attached to a changeover valve.
It has never been known to fit two bulkhead regulators.
In this case testing at 50mB is right as it comes under the BS3016 regulations and not the EN1949 regulations
It has never been known to fit two bulkhead regulators.
In this case testing at 50mB is right as it comes under the BS3016 regulations and not the EN1949 regulations
Hi All
After reading the postings (not all) last night i went through our manual, there on page 19.....
The van MUST be serviced once a year during the warranty period, during which the service must be carried out as per the list, which includes, gas, electric, damp test, etc.
The service report counts as a test certicate.... some postings suggested that vans did not not require annual servicing.
To those members who have more experience, can you please throw some light on this metter.
After reading the postings (not all) last night i went through our manual, there on page 19.....
The van MUST be serviced once a year during the warranty period, during which the service must be carried out as per the list, which includes, gas, electric, damp test, etc.
The service report counts as a test certicate.... some postings suggested that vans did not not require annual servicing.
To those members who have more experience, can you please throw some light on this metter.
Damian
Moderator
Richard, simply put, when you buy a new van part of the conditions to maintain the warranty for however long the maker sets, some are 3 years, some are 6 years, then the van must be serviced every year, usually within a time frame, like a month either side of the purchase date.
After the warranty period it is up to the owner whether or not to service their van.
Whilst servicing is quite expensive, and there are some good service engineers, there are also some not so good ones.
Some folks also believe that it is not really necessary, but to that one has to ask,what price safety of those dear to you, for the sake of saving a couple of hundred pounds or less, and unless you have the specialist test equipment and tools, some service tasks are not possible.
After the warranty period it is up to the owner whether or not to service their van.
Whilst servicing is quite expensive, and there are some good service engineers, there are also some not so good ones.
Some folks also believe that it is not really necessary, but to that one has to ask,what price safety of those dear to you, for the sake of saving a couple of hundred pounds or less, and unless you have the specialist test equipment and tools, some service tasks are not possible.
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