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WSL Wheel nuts

Morning all,
I am sure this has been discussed before but I am new to this forum and not very tech savvy so apologies if is been repeated.
Has anyone had issues removing WSL wheel nuts. All mine have just been replaced while the van was in service as they said they were all rusted and without an airgun they would not have come off. I have now got the van home and need to replace the tyre, however these nuts just will not move, worst of all the socket is really ill fitting and does not even seat properly on the head of the bolt. I am aware there is only one way it will go on and have tried it in all position. Also I have read several articles as to why Bailey have gone to these new bolts and that's all fine, but was there really a problem to solve? There are thousands of caravans going up and down the country perfectly safely without fancy WSL friction bolts. And even if there is a need for these bolts why have this ridiculous head on the bolt, its not exactly an anti theft bolt when the socket is so readily available.
 
Yes I have, didn't think it would make much difference as the socket just doesn't seam to have any purchase. But happy to try it. Thanks
 
Morning all,
I am sure this has been discussed before but I am new to this forum and not very tech savvy so apologies if is been repeated.
Has anyone had issues removing WSL wheel nuts. All mine have just been replaced while the van was in service as they said they were all rusted and without an airgun they would not have come off. I have now got the van home and need to replace the tyre, however these nuts just will not move, worst of all the socket is really ill fitting and does not even seat properly on the head of the bolt. I am aware there is only one way it will go on and have tried it in all position. Also I have read several articles as to why Bailey have gone to these new bolts and that's all fine, but was there really a problem to solve? There are thousands of caravans going up and down the country perfectly safely without fancy WSL friction bolts. And even if there is a need for these bolts why have this ridiculous head on the bolt, its not exactly an anti theft bolt when the socket is so readily available.


Yes there was, and still is a problem with wheel detachements. For no real reason this was identified as a Bailey problem. But the chassis is common to many vans.

An air gun should not be necessary to remove bolts and should most definitely not be used to put them on. A torque wrench is all that is needed. I have never heard of a rusting problem. Mine are certainly not a problem. You say yours have been replaced. Have you been supplied with the right key. (I think there is only one). Has your van been regularly serviced?

There is much discussion on the need for WSL bolts. After suffering a wheel detachment I am very much in favour of them. Yours is the first and only post I have read that points towards problems with them.

John
 
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Yes there was, and still is a problem with wheel detachements. For no real reason this was identified as a Bailey problem. But the chassis is common to many vans.

An air gun should not be necessary to remove bolts and should most definitely not be used to put them on. A torque wrench is all that is needed. I have never heard of a rusting problem. Mine are certainly not a problem. You say yours have been replaced. Have you been supplied with the right key. (I think there is only one). Has your van been regularly serviced?

There is much discussion on the need for WSL bolts. After suffering a wheel detachment I am very much in favour of them. Yours is the first and only post I have read that points towards problems with them.

John
Hi John
Thanks for your reply, Yes mine were replaced last week on both wheels, the mechanic said all of them had rusted on. He said it took him 3/4 of an hour just to get one wheel off. I'm not sure if he's air gunned them on he definitely checked them with a torque wrench while I was there picking the van up.
I don't have an issue with the bolts or the need for the bolts but I do wonder why caravan wheels should be any different to any other wheel, why don't car wheels have these special bolts. My issue is with how the socket fits and the fact that there is no "grip". Its rather like trying to unscrew a pozi drive screw that's a bit worn the socket just rides out of the groove.
 
[
Hi John
Thanks for your reply, Yes mine were replaced last week on both wheels, the mechanic said all of them had rusted on. He said it took him 3/4 of an hour just to get one wheel off. I'm not sure if he's air gunned them on he definitely checked them with a torque wrench while I was there picking the van up.
I don't have an issue with the bolts or the need for the bolts but I do wonder why caravan wheels should be any different to any other wheel, why don't car wheels have these special bolts. My issue is with how the socket fits and the fact that there is no "grip". Its rather like trying to unscrew a pozi drive screw that's a bit worn the socket just rides out of the groove.

The why’s and wherefore have been done to death in other threads. I think you will find that cars do have ‘special’ bolts. At least bolts matched to the job, right steal with the correct elasticity.

I am puzzled as to why your keys don't fit properly. Mine are no problem. Perhaps when you had new bolts fitted they use a new updated key. Maybe a little different than the original. Where you supplied with new keys?

My WSL bolts are now 7 years old and look in excellent, rust free condition.

John
 
[


The why’s and wherefore have been done to death in other threads. I think you will find that cars do have ‘special’ bolts. At least bolts matched to the job, right steal with the correct elasticity.

I am puzzled as to why your keys don't fit properly. Mine are no problem. Perhaps when you had new bolts fitted they use a new updated key. Maybe a little different than the original. Where you supplied with new keys?

My WSL bolts are now 7 years old and look in excellent, rust free condition.

John

Yes I have asked for a new key, although he said the are all the same.
 
Morning all,
I am sure this has been discussed before but I am new to this forum and not very tech savvy so apologies if is been repeated.
Has anyone had issues removing WSL wheel nuts. All mine have just been replaced while the van was in service as they said they were all rusted and without an airgun they would not have come off. I have now got the van home and need to replace the tyre, however these nuts just will not move, worst of all the socket is really ill fitting and does not even seat properly on the head of the bolt. I am aware there is only one way it will go on and have tried it in all position. Also I have read several articles as to why Bailey have gone to these new bolts and that's all fine, but was there really a problem to solve? There are thousands of caravans going up and down the country perfectly safely without fancy WSL friction bolts. And even if there is a need for these bolts why have this ridiculous head on the bolt, its not exactly an anti theft bolt when the socket is so readily available.
Hi welcome to the forum I have seen your problem on several occasions with new studs or with a new adapter, usually a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to ensure the adapter goes onto the bolt head will be enough to loosen the bolt, however you say you are replacing a tyre, if I was you replace both and get them balanced.

Gra
 
Hi welcome to the forum I have seen your problem on several occasions with new studs or with a new adapter, usually a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to ensure the adapter goes onto the bolt head will be enough to loosen the bolt, however you say you are replacing a tyre, if I was you replace both and get them balanced.

Gra
Thanks for your suggestion, you are spot on. Just tried this on a couple of nuts and it worked perfectly, once the socket seated properly they came off no problem. Yes I am replacing both tyres.
Thanks again

Slawit.
 
Morning all,
I am sure this has been discussed before but I am new to this forum and not very tech savvy so apologies if is been repeated.
Has anyone had issues removing WSL wheel nuts. All mine have just been replaced while the van was in service as they said they were all rusted and without an airgun they would not have come off. I have now got the van home and need to replace the tyre, however these nuts just will not move, worst of all the socket is really ill fitting and does not even seat properly on the head of the bolt. I am aware there is only one way it will go on and have tried it in all position. Also I have read several articles as to why Bailey have gone to these new bolts and that's all fine, but was there really a problem to solve? There are thousands of caravans going up and down the country perfectly safely without fancy WSL friction bolts. And even if there is a need for these bolts why have this ridiculous head on the bolt, its not exactly an anti theft bolt when the socket is so readily available.
What is WSL ?
 
Doesn't answer the question, just talks about WSL
What is WSL ?

Okay, then WSL is the company initials and trading name of the vender of a particular bolting system, one discussed here. Within the group are the Tyre Pal & Tyron Band brands.

These bolts use a very old technology employed to increase the "amount" of the bolt's length that is elastically stretched, with the aim to store more energy, just as we use elastic bands to clamp things together. *
That longer [working section] bolt and the energy it stores tolerates more surface-to-surface settling of the bolted assembly, without dropping the clamping force as much as a shorter bolt would.
So, way more tolerant for example in holding wheels in place, particularly in high and fluctuating loading cases, where the design itself has minimal inherent tolerance margins.

* what seems a very obvious solution, use a spacer or more washers.
 
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An update, the initial problem was my original WSL socket was "caming out" when I tried to undo the bolts, been new to this type of bolt and assuming all sockets are the same I was bemused as to why I was having such a problem. Long story short I obtained another socket from the caravan dealer (this socket should have been given to me at the time of service) and this fits and works perfectly. So problem sorted.
 
An update, the initial problem was my original WSL socket was "caming out" when I tried to undo the bolts, been new to this type of bolt and assuming all sockets are the same I was bemused as to why I was having such a problem. Long story short I obtained another socket from the caravan dealer (this socket should have been given to me at the time of service) and this fits and works perfectly. So problem sorted.

They should have given the new ones when they fitted new bolts as 1 cones with each set of 5.

John
 
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Okay, then WSL is the company initials and trading name of the vender of a particular bolting system, one discussed here. Within the group are the Tyre Pal & Tyron Band brands.

These bolts use a very old technology employed to increase the "amount" of the bolt's length that is elastically stretched, with the aim to store more energy, just as we use elastic bands to clamp things together. *
That longer [working section] bolt and the energy it stores tolerates more surface-to-surface settling of the bolted assembly, without dropping the clamping force as much as a shorter bolt would.
So, way more tolerant for example in holding wheels in place, particularly in high and fluctuating loading cases, where the design itself has minimal inherent tolerance margins.

* what seems a very obvious solution, use a spacer or more washers.
Never heard of them (WSL)
 
I had a similar problem with my new to me Bailey , couldn’t get the wheel studs off because previous owner had burred the studs by probably using a normal socket to remove them ( according to my mobile engineer I use) I replaced all ten studs which like someone else said come with new WSL sockets and all is fine now 👍👍
 

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