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Alde heating fluid
- Thread starter Fraseb01
- Start date
Unless you've got documentary evidence that the original fill has been replaced, then it's due for a change of fluid now - if you've got the documentation that will give enough information to determine when it's next due.
I agree and if in any doubt at all change it; the corrosive protectants lose their ability over time-hence the change-cars need it changing too (in spite of what Mini say-I simply ignore that!). If you do change it do so to the g13-no need to buy Alde branded stuff-a good motor factors will sell it far cheaper . That lasts 5 years. There is a sticker on our tank saying date filled, date to change.
Damian
Moderator
It is not particularly difficult to drain, just pull the red bung under the van and drain the old fluid into a suitable container for correct disposal. Replace the bung.
Then flush through with water and drain again.
Then fill with the glycol/water mix , then it gets time consuming .
You need to alternately raise the front and back with the pump running to get rid of the air, using the bleed points in the van.
With a workshop doing the change they use a special pump to force the fluid throughout the system and expel any air, and they have the job of disposing of the old fluid.
Then flush through with water and drain again.
Then fill with the glycol/water mix , then it gets time consuming .
You need to alternately raise the front and back with the pump running to get rid of the air, using the bleed points in the van.
With a workshop doing the change they use a special pump to force the fluid throughout the system and expel any air, and they have the job of disposing of the old fluid.
Just to add a bit more:
You can buy a 12v pump from Ebay for well under a tenner. It simply drops into a bucked of coolant (or water) and forces it through the system.
Couple of short bits of garden hose connected to the flow and return at the header tank (just remove header tank first) will let you not only "force" the coolant out effectively but help to eliminate the air pockets.
One end of "flow" hose into bucket with new fluid ready mixed and other end (return) to a suitable waste container.
(Alternatively first pump through clean water but it's not really needed - 2 and 5 year antifreeze does mix).
Pump new pink fluid through and watch old blue gushing out of the other pipe into the waste container. When this turns pink you know you've done the job.
Turn caravan pump to full and bleed then turn back to number 2 for continued use.
Oh and don't forget the drain plug!!!!!
It's a bit more complex than just pulling the "bung" out and draining the fluid into a bucket, and the proper pump system is the best way to do it.
You'd need to open all of the air bleed valves, and take the one on the boiler to bits to let the air in and therefor the fluid out, which would be a painfully slow way to do it
The original question was about topping it up in any case.
The fluid level should be around 10mm above the min level when it is cold.
Hope that helps
You'd need to open all of the air bleed valves, and take the one on the boiler to bits to let the air in and therefor the fluid out, which would be a painfully slow way to do it
The original question was about topping it up in any case.
The fluid level should be around 10mm above the min level when it is cold.
Hope that helps
