• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Best glue for Furniture?

Part of the kitchen top side trim has detached. Job for this morning.
I have various glues. What do you guys suggest as the easiest and best glue for the job?
 
Part of the kitchen top side trim has detached. Job for this morning.
I have various glues. What do you guys suggest as the easiest and best glue for the job?
If you can clamp the joint I would use PVA glue. If you cannot clamp then a contact adhesive such as Bostik or Evostick should hold it. Standing by for lots more suggestions!
 
If you can clamp the joint I would use PVA glue. If you cannot clamp then a contact adhesive such as Bostik or Evostick should hold it. Standing by for lots more suggestions!
It’s the vertical edging strip so the only way to clamp is using tape. I hate doing this job. More glue goes where it shouldn’t!
 
The glue used for Edge veneer is often heat activated, and it might be worth trying a moderate clothes Iron to press the surface and reactivate the glue.

Otherwise a contact adhesive like Evo Stick, and lots of strips of masking tape applied at 90 degrees to hold it in position whilst it fully cures.
 
Contact adhesive is what my pal a kitchen fitter always uses (his preferred is Bostik) Just don't try and fit the edges together too soon! The adhesive needs to be virtually bone dry for it to bond properly. If done correctly there is little need to use any tape to hold it in place, my mate never does!,
 
I agree with Prof to try a moderate clothes iron but would suggest doing so through a piece of kitchen roll to help the iron slide over the edge strip.
 
In the workshop, the edging would always be done with an iron and a sheet of brown wrapping paper to protect the strip and avoid burning.

Kev
 
In the workshop, the edging would always be done with an iron and a sheet of brown wrapping paper to protect the strip and avoid burning.

Kev

So why, when you buy a length of kitchen worktop, it comes with a length of edging strip with no backing (adhesive) ??
I AM aware that some years ago, if you purchased some surfaced chipboard (Conti-board being a major source) they did indeed come with an "iron on" edging strip. I used it a lot in my early home owning days. But that sort of product is no longer around.
 
So why, when you buy a length of kitchen worktop, it comes with a length of edging strip with no backing (adhesive) ??
I AM aware that some years ago, if you purchased some surfaced chipboard (Conti-board being a major source) they did indeed come with an "iron on" edging strip. I used it a lot in my early home owning days. But that sort of product is no longer around.
Does that mean trying the iron won’t work? I’m going down the Prof route first then contact adhesive. I have a glue gun and will try that too.
 
Does that mean trying the iron won’t work? I’m going down the Prof route first then contact adhesive. I have a glue gun and will try that too.
I find hot glue gun adhesive seems to solidify too quickly doing that type of job. Whereas contact adhesive is best when allowed to dry.
 
So why, when you buy a length of kitchen worktop, it comes with a length of edging strip with no backing (adhesive) ??
I AM aware that some years ago, if you purchased some surfaced chipboard (Conti-board being a major source) they did indeed come with an "iron on" edging strip. I used it a lot in my early home owning days. But that sort of product is no longer around.
If it’s a worktop then you would use contact adhesive, Appologies as I though we were discussing edging of say the unit carcass etc in which case it would usually be an iron on strip.

Kev
 
I had a good look today and fancied the Prof’s suggestion using an iron. However there appears to no glue residue left after 15 years. It seems to me the contact adhesive method will be best.I can easily apply glue to both surfaces, keeping them apart until dry and then inch by inch to the end apply pressure for adhesion. Any overspill glue will have to be cleaned up afterwards but that can be managed , hopefully.

Many thanks to all the contributors who offered advice. It is the various advice freely offered that makes this forum tick. Without suggestions we may as well go home. Thanks again DD
 

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Back
Top