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Faulty regulator ?

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M

mikeduckett

Suddenly the flame on my cooker has got very strong / big. Seems like much more propane gas is coming through. Up to now the flame has been completely normal. Now much more noisy too. Now the low setting is a bigger flame than high was before. Tried another bottle but was the same big flame. Is this a faulty regulator?
Thanks
Mike
20231121_112747.jpg
 
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Having a regulator go faulty is not good, Stop using it and disconnect the gas bottle(s) and rather than debating it on a forum for your safety you should be either getting checked or replaced.

I presume by your reference of "like Propane" that suggests you are using Butane. One of the issues with Butane at temperatures around 0C is its vapour pressure is so low that just dropping below 0C could cause any gas vapour in the pipes to condense into its liquified state.

When the ambient temperature rises the liquified gas will evaporate, but this time its on the wrong side of the regulator and it could exceed the normal 30mBar pressure producing larger flames at burners.

Whilst its not good to allow this to happen, and there are risks from it, it will only last as long as it takes for liquified gas to evaporate and the pressure will drop back and allow the regulator to re admit 30mBar gas to the system.

If what I describe is happening, you must change your gas to Propane.
 
ProfJohnL said:
Having a regulator go faulty is not good, Stop using it and disconnect the gas bottle(s) and rather than debating it on a forum for your safety you should be either getting checked or replaced.

I presume by your reference of "like Propane" that suggests you are using Butane. One of the issues with Butane at temperatures around 0C is its vapour pressure is so low that just dropping below 0C could cause any gas vapour in the pipes to condense into its liquified state.

When the ambient temperature rises the liquified gas will evaporate, but this time its on the wrong side of the regulator and it could exceed the normal 30mBar pressure producing larger flames at burners.

Whilst its not good to allow this to happen, and there are risks from it, it will only last as long as it takes for liquified gas to evaporate and the pressure will drop back and allow the regulator to re admit 30mBar gas to the system.

If what I describe is happening, you must change your gas to Propane.
Click to expand...
Butane can start slowing down at 10 degrees C and stop at 0 degrees C
 
ProfJohnL said:
Having a regulator go faulty is not good, Stop using it and disconnect the gas bottle(s) and rather than debating it on a forum for your safety you should be either getting checked or replaced.

I presume by your reference of "like Propane" that suggests you are using Butane. One of the issues with Butane at temperatures around 0C is its vapour pressure is so low that just dropping below 0C could cause any gas vapour in the pipes to condense into its liquified state.

When the ambient temperature rises the liquified gas will evaporate, but this time its on the wrong side of the regulator and it could exceed the normal 30mBar pressure producing larger flames at burners.

Whilst its not good to allow this to happen, and there are risks from it, it will only last as long as it takes for liquified gas to evaporate and the pressure will drop back and allow the regulator to re admit 30mBar gas to the system.

If what I describe is happening, you must change your gas to Propane.
Click to expand...
You are NOT reading Mike's paragraph correctly. He is stating " Like too much propane is coming through".
 
ProfJohnL said:
Having a regulator go faulty is not good, Stop using it and disconnect the gas bottle(s) and rather than debating it on a forum for your safety you should be either getting checked or replaced.

I presume by your reference of "like Propane" that suggests you are using Butane. One of the issues with Butane at temperatures around 0C is its vapour pressure is so low that just dropping below 0C could cause any gas vapour in the pipes to condense into its liquified state.

When the ambient temperature rises the liquified gas will evaporate, but this time its on the wrong side of the regulator and it could exceed the normal 30mBar pressure producing larger flames at burners.

Whilst its not good to allow this to happen, and there are risks from it, it will only last as long as it takes for liquified gas to evaporate and the pressure will drop back and allow the regulator to re admit 30mBar gas to the system.

If what I describe is happening, you must change your gas to Propane.
Click to expand...
I'm using propane. Not planning mega debates on here just wondered if anyone had same problem. Will replace regulator.
 
I misinterpreted Mikes wording, so my first paragraph applies. The system should not be used until it has been checked and corrected.

And I quite agree that the symptoms are not of blocked burners.
 
I’d like to see the flame on his other burner. Whilst the regulator may be the favourite culprit it is not unknown for the Venturi tube to become blocked with debris causing an incorrect air gas mix resulting in a higher than normal flame. Hence my original statement about a “blocked burner”. I will,happily stand corrected😎
Please will the op let us know what the other flames look like?
 
Dustydog said:
I’d like to see the flame on his other burner. Whilst the regulator may be the favourite culprit it is not unknown for the Venturi tube to become blocked with debris causing an incorrect air gas mix resulting in a higher than normal flame. Hence my original statement about a “blocked burner”. I will,happily stand corrected😎
Please will the op let us know what the other flames look like?
Click to expand...
A partial blockage in a venturi or any other part of the gas and air system will always reduce mass gas flow. It can also change the mixing effect required which can change the quality of the flame. Poor mixing reduces the amount of primary air mixing causing the the flame to burn too richly tending towards a candling yellowing inner cone on the flame. The supplied picture does not show any candling. This strongly favours a change in gas pressure causing the difference.
 
I think some where, that a regulator "should" be replaced at 10 years old.
I am guilty, even being an engineer , to leaving replacing, items like regulators until I have a problem with them.
Until retirement, at work it was fairly easy to "Swop " components to eliminate a problem ,
But when it might cost £40 to buy a component , you just want to be sure.
 
I don’t think we know the make model and year of the OPs caravan?
Looking at the hob I’d bet he has a cylinder mounted regulator which are cheap as chips.
A plumbed in bulkhead mounted one will be considerably more and isn’t a diy fit for the non experienced. Hutch and I would change ours😉We know how👍
 
Now Dusty Dogs, last sentence about replacing a regulator.
I have no problems about doing that. After changing a component, a soapy water or spray designed to find gas leaks, would do for me.
But remember there are torque , requirements on , gas pipe fittings, ( Never seen a gas fitter with a torque wrench. ) .
 
Could it be possible that the problem was that it was too low/weak before and now it actually working correctly? I would love to see photos on the lowest setting, but also know what happens on the other jets.
 
Hutch said:
Now Dusty Dogs, last sentence about replacing a regulator.
I have no problems about doing that. After changing a component, a soapy water or spray designed to find gas leaks, would do for me.
But remember there are torque , requirements on , gas pipe fittings, ( Never seen a gas fitter with a torque wrench. ) .
Click to expand...
Just bought one of these

Much more sensitive than soapy water. Usefil in both our caravan and boat.
 
Challenger said:
Just bought one of these

Much more sensitive than soapy water. Usefil in both our caravan and boat.
Click to expand...
I have to urge caution about using such a device. From the information on the Amazon web site I could find no information about what standards it has been manufactured to or what approvals it may have and it it has been calibrated and has a confidence level for its measurements. Consequently it should not be relied on to be able to accurately measure gas concentrations.

Secondly as there is no evidence of manufacturing standards, and at least on review clearly has reservations about the quality of its construction, I could not even suggest it is intrinsically safe to use in areas where combustible gas might be present. An internal sparking contact could just be the source of ignition needed to cause a flash over.

Unless there are recognised approvals which have not been identified in listing for this product, my advice has to be "steer well clear of cheaply made, unapproved measurement devices like this" they may not detect what you are actually looking for.
 
Screwfix have a range of leak detectors and leak detection aerosol. The instruments aren’t cheap though, but are used by trades persons and the performance/manufacturing standards are specified.

Gas Leak Detector | Gas Detector | Screwfix

Buy Gas Leak Detectors at Screwfix.com. Handheld. Locate source of leak. Audiable and visual warnings. Click and Collect in hundreds of stores nationwide.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
 
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Whatever device you use to test the new joint it is supposed to be mandatory to do a pressure drop test using a manometer. Such test is part of the annual habitation service . The norm is to do the test over 5 minutes. If the pressure drops then you have a leak.
www.screwfix.com

Monument Tools 30mb Gas Test Gauge - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Tests installed pipework for leaks prior to introduction of gas, checks and sets correct gas pressures on domestic and commercial appliances. Scale adjusts to zero water level. Marked in millibars. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
 
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