hub nuts
- Thread starter sbarltrop
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no james they are both the same, clockwise to tighten anti clockwise to undo but they are very tight. dont try to shock them off with a hammer ect a firm even pressure is the best way to get them off "I have a long ring spanner for the job"
depending if they have been off before or not they will also have a dab of paint on the threads that needs removing with a wire brush.
dont forget also that they are "oneshot" nuts and must NOT be reused the old ones were nylon lock nuts but the new ones are well sort of oval and there are 2 sizes so make sure you get the right ones before hand there not cheap @
depending if they have been off before or not they will also have a dab of paint on the threads that needs removing with a wire brush.
dont forget also that they are "oneshot" nuts and must NOT be reused the old ones were nylon lock nuts but the new ones are well sort of oval and there are 2 sizes so make sure you get the right ones before hand there not cheap @
Just a comment on the left hand/right hand wheel nuts on caravans.
It would be interesting to know the statistics regarding which wheel comes off more often. Is it the offside or nearside? If it is the nearside, could it be because the natural turning of the wheel would cause a right hand thread hub nut to loosen, if not tightened to the correct torque.
I don't see why the nearside hub nut can't be a left hand thread which would possibly reduce the loosening effect.
Tony
It would be interesting to know the statistics regarding which wheel comes off more often. Is it the offside or nearside? If it is the nearside, could it be because the natural turning of the wheel would cause a right hand thread hub nut to loosen, if not tightened to the correct torque.
I don't see why the nearside hub nut can't be a left hand thread which would possibly reduce the loosening effect.
Tony
coooeeee this will get the teccys going, sorry folks but yes martin I do tighten up the hub nut with a ring spanner?? exactly the same way I do on the car.
tweak it up something like near-enough then use a 60kg spring balance through the end of the spanner which by the way is 60cm long ie; 2ft at a pressure of 48kg. done this dozens of times never had a nut loosen, after tightening and rechecking a marker on the nut and stub axel notes it's position, whipping the dust cap off shows the nut has not moved.
and just before someone tells me i'm barmy check this;;
48kg = 105.6lbs @ 2ft. OR 211.lb/ft, not sure about newtons but I can't see it being that far out anyway.
tweak it up something like near-enough then use a 60kg spring balance through the end of the spanner which by the way is 60cm long ie; 2ft at a pressure of 48kg. done this dozens of times never had a nut loosen, after tightening and rechecking a marker on the nut and stub axel notes it's position, whipping the dust cap off shows the nut has not moved.
and just before someone tells me i'm barmy check this;;
48kg = 105.6lbs @ 2ft. OR 211.lb/ft, not sure about newtons but I can't see it being that far out anyway.
- Jul 15, 2008
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.....why do you want to keep fiddling with your nuts? ;-)
The bearings are sealed for life and the brake mechanism and linings should be fine for 50,000 miles at least unless abused.
The bearings are sealed for life and the brake mechanism and linings should be fine for 50,000 miles at least unless abused.
Hi Gafferbill,
So is it just a way for the dealer to charge more then when he replaces all 4 hub nuts on our twin axle at very annual service?
I had assumed the service schedule must have called for removal of the hub to inspect the brake linings and to lubricate any cam type mechanism on the backplates.
Must admit, it does seem like overkill when compared to the service regime for drum brakes on cars that still have them on the rear axle. I bet we only do 2k miles p.a tops with our caravan.
So is it just a way for the dealer to charge more then when he replaces all 4 hub nuts on our twin axle at very annual service?
I had assumed the service schedule must have called for removal of the hub to inspect the brake linings and to lubricate any cam type mechanism on the backplates.
Must admit, it does seem like overkill when compared to the service regime for drum brakes on cars that still have them on the rear axle. I bet we only do 2k miles p.a tops with our caravan.
Damian
Moderator
- Mar 14, 2005
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The hub nuts have to be removed to clean the dust out of the drums and operating mechanisms within.
The reverse mechanism requires greasing as does the adjuster and part of the backplate.
Unfortunately on axles with One Shot Nuts, they cannot be reused, so must be replaced.
It IS part of the Approved Workshop Annual Service Schedule to remove the drums during the service.
The reverse mechanism requires greasing as does the adjuster and part of the backplate.
Unfortunately on axles with One Shot Nuts, they cannot be reused, so must be replaced.
It IS part of the Approved Workshop Annual Service Schedule to remove the drums during the service.
Just a few words in support of Gafferbills point of view.
The sevice interval for my car is 18000 miles or one year, depending on which comes first and the cost is less than my caravan. The brakes on most cars are much more advanced than a caravans which in general do much less mileage, so why the need to remove the hub to maintain the caravan brakes during an annual service.
Tony
- Jul 15, 2008
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...the dust does no harm and any excess will self clean from the drum.
The brake efficiency and working of the brake release reversing mechanism can be readily tested without removal of the drums.
It is up to the caravan owner to decide on the appropriate level of maintenance for his or her pride and joy.
A caravan workshop should always be thorough in its work for a customer and the removal of the drums is a quick job for them.
This will be why they do it but I will be extremely rare for them to have to do more than the jobs Damian describes.
If linings have to be renewed it will most likely be because the handbrake has been left on!
The brake efficiency and working of the brake release reversing mechanism can be readily tested without removal of the drums.
It is up to the caravan owner to decide on the appropriate level of maintenance for his or her pride and joy.
A caravan workshop should always be thorough in its work for a customer and the removal of the drums is a quick job for them.
This will be why they do it but I will be extremely rare for them to have to do more than the jobs Damian describes.
If linings have to be renewed it will most likely be because the handbrake has been left on!
Just for those who question why the hubs need to come off.....
I saw a van yesterday, when the hubs were removed the brakes all looked fine....until thumbnail was put under the edge of the shoe to check for bonding, the lining fell off!!!!
So perhaps now some may see why there is a need for drum removal, Damian quite rightly points out other examples.
I saw a van yesterday, when the hubs were removed the brakes all looked fine....until thumbnail was put under the edge of the shoe to check for bonding, the lining fell off!!!!
So perhaps now some may see why there is a need for drum removal, Damian quite rightly points out other examples.
- Mar 14, 2005
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I look after my own caravan, as I do our four cars and I believe that it is quite unnecessary to remove brake drums every year. I removed my 9 year old Bailey's two years ago and apart from a bit of dust, the exercise was a waste of time. Incidentally, one of our cars is a 12 year old Peugeot and a few weeks ago I removed the drums for the first time, simply to renew the brake cables. Yes, there was a lot of dust in there, but cylinders were dry and the auto-adjustment mechanism was still greased and working correctly. Shoes I noted down for a change before the next MOT.
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