Brasso530 said:
Hey the police routinely fit their sat navs to the screen in the drivers line of sight.
Hey the police routinely fit their sat navs to the screen in the drivers line of sight.
just read this topic very interesting considering there is tester taking part. insight into what happens well not really but then one opinion is just one opinion. had the old Picasso tested last week. left it there went for a coffee and then returned. ok he said it's passed. no problems no advisories.
so I got 5mins to talk to him while he's doing the paper work. and asked what difference these new rules have on the older car. not much he replied is all subjective. for instance how can you fail a car for a presumed new fault when it was never build to pass it in the first place. guess where it's going for next years test.
so I got 5mins to talk to him while he's doing the paper work. and asked what difference these new rules have on the older car. not much he replied is all subjective. for instance how can you fail a car for a presumed new fault when it was never build to pass it in the first place. guess where it's going for next years test.
We are a bit concerned about the new MOT emissions as our Jeep GC is a 2005 model and that model does not have a DPF. It has been serviced regularly including main dealership servicing for the big main service.
I am not sure whether the new emissions tests apply to older vehicles like ours as we cannot afford to buy a newer model. There is no issue with the vehicle as it is reliable and does the job towing the caravan.
Our concern is that we have booked and paid a deposit for a holiday in September however the MOT is due a few days before we go and that is using the earliest date for the MOT. Thinking about doing the MOT early August just in case.
Our other car is a 1996 Toyota Corolla which is also well maintained and serviced regularly therefore I am hoping there will not be any emissions issues with it.
I am not sure whether the new emissions tests apply to older vehicles like ours as we cannot afford to buy a newer model. There is no issue with the vehicle as it is reliable and does the job towing the caravan.
Our concern is that we have booked and paid a deposit for a holiday in September however the MOT is due a few days before we go and that is using the earliest date for the MOT. Thinking about doing the MOT early August just in case.
Our other car is a 1996 Toyota Corolla which is also well maintained and serviced regularly therefore I am hoping there will not be any emissions issues with it.
Buckman said:
There’s a link in an earlier post which gives the requirements for both diesel and petrol cars. If you have difficulty sleeping reading it will help no end. But seriously it does cover the requirements.
Sleep easy buckman,nothing has really changed that's applicable to your car,it'll be the same test as always.The only thing that's really changed for older(pre 2009) cars are reverse lights and the engine management light,at the moment there's a lot of poor wording in the manual and we're passing cars that would of failed couple of months ago.
For what it's worth,I thing vosa will retract the "no smoke at all" criteria in a few months,as it's very subjective.
For what it's worth,I thing vosa will retract the "no smoke at all" criteria in a few months,as it's very subjective.
Brasso530 said:You are top of the class vic,7pins are not testable,13 pin only and I think it's only on cars after 2013. The check is only for road lights,not charging etc...
Just checked a few points in manual,socket only testable if a tow ball fitted.Another one of my many examples,if your car fails for faulty towbar socket just remove towball,re test pass,refit towball at homeplease note I DO NOT CONDONE THIS CONDUCT,but it's just to highlight the testing procedures,as it's not a tow bar socket(by definition)if no towball fit.its just a socket.
P.s sorry for late reply,only just got in.
Apologies for resurrecting what is an old thread, but this is VERY relevant to me! On Friday last, I had my car (Nissan X Trail, 2011) MOT’d and it failed. Explanation was given as "Trailer electrical socket (13 pin) not operating the trailer lamps as intended (Stop lights inoperative) [4.10 (c) (i)]” Now this surprised me as the 13 pin plug was only fitted in January 2018 (the car originally only had a 7 pin trailer socket when I bought it), and it went through last years's MOT (at a different garage) with no problem. I also know that the stop lights on the caravan were working fine when we checked them prior to setting of on tour during the year. My questions are, firstly, is it true that only cars from 2013 on that should be tested, as suggested above, or does this mean that this test was introduced from 2013? Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, what is my best next step? It appears from my research that there are still some "issues" with the test equipment and modern car electrical systems. There even appears to have been a MOT Special Notice issued in February on this matter (https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-special-notice-01-19-towbar-electrical-socket-test-tools-diesel-smoke-meters-and-annual-training-and-assessments/mot-special-notice-01-19-towbar-electrical-socket-test-tools-diesel-smoke-meters-and-annual-training-and-assessments#towbar-13-pin-electrical-socket-test-tools).
The latest regs say:
4.10 Trailer electrical socket
You must only inspect the trailer electrical socket on vehicles fitted with a towing coupling.
If there's no tow ball or pin, but the attachment brackets are still in place, you must assess the electrical sockets if the tow ball or pin has been:
detached
unbolted
otherwise removed
You don't need to assess the electrical sockets if the attachment brackets have been deliberately made unfit for further use.
You don't need to assess the trailer electrical socket if you need tools or specialist equipment to remove access panels in the bumper or bodywork to gain access to the socket.
A trailer electrical socket with a defective or missing cover flap that incorporates a lug and spring to hold the plug in place isn’t considered to be a defect.
On vehicles fitted with a trailer 13 pin Euro-socket, use an approved device to check that the socket is wired to correctly operate the trailer:
position lamps
stop lamps
direction indicators
rear fog lamp
Defect Category
A trailer electrical socket:
insecure
Minor
likely to become detached
Major
Trailer electrical socket wiring:
insulation damaged or deteriorated
Minor
insulation damaged or deteriorated and likely to cause a short-circuit
Major
A 13-pin trailer socket:
not functioning correctly
Major
not functioning at all
Dangerous
4.10 Trailer electrical socket
You must only inspect the trailer electrical socket on vehicles fitted with a towing coupling.
If there's no tow ball or pin, but the attachment brackets are still in place, you must assess the electrical sockets if the tow ball or pin has been:
detached
unbolted
otherwise removed
You don't need to assess the electrical sockets if the attachment brackets have been deliberately made unfit for further use.
You don't need to assess the trailer electrical socket if you need tools or specialist equipment to remove access panels in the bumper or bodywork to gain access to the socket.
A trailer electrical socket with a defective or missing cover flap that incorporates a lug and spring to hold the plug in place isn’t considered to be a defect.
On vehicles fitted with a trailer 13 pin Euro-socket, use an approved device to check that the socket is wired to correctly operate the trailer:
position lamps
stop lamps
direction indicators
rear fog lamp
Defect Category
A trailer electrical socket:
insecure
Minor
likely to become detached
Major
Trailer electrical socket wiring:
insulation damaged or deteriorated
Minor
insulation damaged or deteriorated and likely to cause a short-circuit
Major
A 13-pin trailer socket:
not functioning correctly
Major
not functioning at all
Dangerous
That reminds me, must get under the car to recheck all the bolts, on the tow bar to car. They can come loose.
Hi Hutch,
Are you sure your towbar bolts can work loose?
If it was fitted by an approved workshop or mobile fitter, then the bolts would have been set to the correct torque and locking or shake proof washers used.
I have never know the need to periodically check the towbar, or towball bolts. Although I know the Al-Ko ball is 210Nm but I do not know the actual torque figure for the tow bar bolts.
Hopefully Damian (Moderator) will read this and offer his opinion.
Regards,
Are you sure your towbar bolts can work loose?
If it was fitted by an approved workshop or mobile fitter, then the bolts would have been set to the correct torque and locking or shake proof washers used.
I have never know the need to periodically check the towbar, or towball bolts. Although I know the Al-Ko ball is 210Nm but I do not know the actual torque figure for the tow bar bolts.
Hopefully Damian (Moderator) will read this and offer his opinion.
Regards,
Lappy said:
Here is a link to MoT regulations for tow bars.
http://www.ukmot.com/manual/6.6/Towbars#MOT
Hi otherclive,
Thanks for adding the link to the MoT testing of the towbar.
The point I was trying to make, was how often do people need to check the tightness of the bolts.
I don't check my caravan wheels, as they have WSL bolts fitted.
I do not check the road wheels of the car, as once they have been tightened to the correct torque figure and rechecked after a few miles (20) they should not need to be rechecked.
If I have wrongly assumed the need for rechecking is excessive, then I hold my hand up.
The same thing goes for nose weight, once is enough and you just need to remember what you have and don't add to it. The front locker should only be used as intended, which is the storage of Gas bottles and a few bits and bobs. I've seen some people with more stuff in their front locker, than there is in their wife's handbag
Regards,
Thanks for adding the link to the MoT testing of the towbar.
The point I was trying to make, was how often do people need to check the tightness of the bolts.
I don't check my caravan wheels, as they have WSL bolts fitted.
I do not check the road wheels of the car, as once they have been tightened to the correct torque figure and rechecked after a few miles (20) they should not need to be rechecked.
If I have wrongly assumed the need for rechecking is excessive, then I hold my hand up.
The same thing goes for nose weight, once is enough and you just need to remember what you have and don't add to it. The front locker should only be used as intended, which is the storage of Gas bottles and a few bits and bobs. I've seen some people with more stuff in their front locker, than there is in their wife's handbag
Regards,
Lappy said:
Lappy
I tend to agree with you and I posted the link so that others may see what is actually looked at for the tow cars MoT. I’ve never checked towbar torque as it’s so high that I would need a professional torque wrench and the rear of the car would have to be lifted high.
I do check caravan wheel torque before setting off on each trip but not for the return journey. I also recheck caravan and car wheel torque after having the wheels off any reason. But after that the car wheels aren’t touched again.
Totally support your view on the front locker stowage. Especially as my van is nose heavy to start with.
Cheers
http://www.ukmot.com/manual/6.6/Towbars#MOT[/quoteotherclive said:
Thanks Clive.
So where is the electrics bit?
Apologies if I missed something earlier.
Dustydog said:
Dusty
I posted the link to show what is checked on the towbar as a previous poster was questioning if fastening bolts/nuts were checked for torque.
The lighting section is referred to in Section 6 as being dealt with in Section 1.9 of the regulations.
http://www.ukmot.com/manual/1.9/Electrical-Wiring-and-Battery#MOT
Sorry for a late reply.You are correct,we have been issued a special notice about trailer socket testing not always giving a correct reading,because of canbus wiring and led's etc... I would of thought that your mot tester would of used a bit of common sense and we have to give you the benefit of doubt. Also yes it's only 13pin sockets from 2013 onwards. 7pins are not tested for operations on any vehicles.
Brasso530 said:
Thanks Brasso, I was hoping you'd respond. I have spoken to the garage manager who has agreed to go and check his MOT special notices. I have also ordered my own test kit (which is VOSA - DVSA approved) so I can check what is showing, hopefully it will show that my brake light is working.
Niall_McIntosh said:
Which one did you buy. They seem to range from £13 to over £60 fora Sealey VOSA approved unit. The latter probably giving you the same problem as the MoT did
otherclive said:Niall_McIntosh said:
Which one did you buy. They seem to range from £13 to over £60 fora Sealey VOSA approved unit. The latter probably giving you the same problem as the MoT did
I got the Sealey TST22 which worked perfectly on my car with no flickering. It cost £56.95. When I spoke to the MOT Tester, they said their kit had no branding on it.
Why the need for the tester?
Would it not be easier to have someone stand at the back of the caravan and go through the motions with you.
I'm probably missing the point here and therefore look forward to reading the replies.
Regards,
Would it not be easier to have someone stand at the back of the caravan and go through the motions with you.
I'm probably missing the point here and therefore look forward to reading the replies.
Regards,
Parksy
Moderator
The towing vehicle was being MOT tested but the testers check equipment was faulty.
You need to read the thread from the beginning
You need to read the thread from the beginning
Obviously on an mot fail you get a free retest , at least you know they work and I'd be watching in the viewing gallery this time !!
Craigyoung said:
Just bowl up with the caravan and the MoT centre will be desperate to move you on and free up the area, then a quick flash of the hazards, tap the brake and away you go. :evil:
Hi Parksy,
I was aware of the OP with the car being at the test centre.
The point I was trying to raise, was why pay £56 on a tester. Surely you would check your lights every time you hitch up and therefore would be aware of any lights that were not working.
If it was the battery charger, or fridge feed that picked up a fault with the 13pin connector, would this still be classed as a fail?
This is where I think I'm missing the point and seek guidance.
Regards,
I was aware of the OP with the car being at the test centre.
The point I was trying to raise, was why pay £56 on a tester. Surely you would check your lights every time you hitch up and therefore would be aware of any lights that were not working.
If it was the battery charger, or fridge feed that picked up a fault with the 13pin connector, would this still be classed as a fail?
This is where I think I'm missing the point and seek guidance.
Regards,
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